[EProd#23]

I just finished the base installation of my race car seat. The seat is a Ultra Shield. I have not installed the head restraint brace as yet, but I have an approach in mind. I just need some metal that I didn't have this weekend. The seat feels secure, as though you could tow the car with a tow strap hooked to the seat (Ha!).
While I was aligning the seat to steering, I discovered two problems. The first problem is that the floor mount pedal assemblies I purchased for use are too long. They won't enable reasonable driver-to-pedal positioning. Secondly, the steering column prevents the installation of overhead assemblies ( I was going to install the floor mounts upside down, but the steering column hinders that). Has anyone else installed other than stock pedal assemblies?

 

[TimStephens]

We mounted a Tilton Dual Master brake pedal setup which fit under the dash with no problem at all. We fabbed a bracket to mount to the firewall using the stock brake booster mounting points -- didn't even have to use the remote resevoir setup. Are you using a brake only setup or a two pedal, brake/clutch combo?

 

[EProd#23]

Brake Assembly

First, it's good to see you still feel some afinity with/toward the MR2.
Secondly, I met you and your father at the RunOffs the year you ran your MR2. I loitered in your area gleaning all I could about the setup of your MR2. I have credited you with the gas filler opening in my fiberglass fender ( see previous post - Fiberglass Body Done). I plan to use the opening to duct air to both a engine oil cooler, aided by a inline blower, and the driver side brake.
The pedal assemblies I have are - Tilton Floor Mount dual master cylinder brake pedal, and Wilwood Floor Mount clutch pedal assembly. I am going to see if there is some way to make them work.
You mentioned a brake assembly, firewall mount, but you didn't mention what you did for a clutch pedal assembly. Any insite?

 

[TimStephens]

Kept the clutch pedal 100% factory. Stock, it's a pretty good system; didn't see reason to change (and spend $ on) something that we never had a problem with. Major mods took place on the slave cyl. end to facilitate the Tilton clutch, however.

When you saw the car at the Runoffs, that was the last time it was raced in E Prod. The rules just did not favor the 4AG in the class, and dispite our post-Runoff attempt to modify the classification to allow more power and better aerodynamics (a request for 4mm on the chokes and to treat the t-top model as a targa top allowing open cockpit configuration), all that we got the Comp Board to do was add 2mm to the carb chokes. Anyway, we felt that against the newer models (Miata, Nissan, etc.) the MR2 just wouldn't be a front National contender. After that Runoff race, we switched to GT3, completely rebuilt the car as a tub/tube hybrid, and have won every regional race entered, as well as a National at VIR.

Back to the original point; following your photos and progress, you seem to be heading in a very very good direction. Your work looks worthy of GT competition, in fact. I haven't been following the Production classes much lately, but with your level of prep should do well against some of the stuff that is out there. When do you plan to be finished and on the track?

 

[EProd#23]

Well, I have a target of late March, but at 2 hours a night, the progress is slow. For example, tonight I cut and shaped a plate for my seat headrest support and bolted a steering column support to tabs on the rollcage front crossbar. Those are things that don't reflect a great deal of progress, but they have to be done. Thus far it has been a solo project. Maybe as it takes the shape of a racecar, I'll get offers of help. Otherwise, I'll just plod along.
I'm looking for the simplest approach to elevating the engine the one inch the rules allow. I have a can of liquid urethane that I thought I might use to relocate the motor mount grommets. I haven't looked at that thoroughly yet. If anyone has ideas as to how I can "Get R Dun" let me know.

 

[davegt27]

My idea to lower the MR2 was to run a 20" tall tire and use what they call "short stroke" struts

I posted some PICS in the suspension section


http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=141978&page=2&pp=10&highlight=davegt27

What I did not mention is the front is at full drop so I might have to change out the front struts to longer ones

The front has like 7" springs ha ha

But you can also see the problem with the strut rods being level with the ground at ride height

(No anti dive)

Anyway big subject

Davegt27

 

[EProd#23]

Head Restraint Installed

The seat install is complete including the head restraint. SCCA General Competition Rules call for a head restraint that will withstand a 200 pound impact. I don't have definitive proof, but, I have complete confidence that it will provide the safety intended by the SCCA. It is as good as the welds of the roll bar/cage.

Tim,

I checked the fit/placement of the stock clutch pedal in relation to the steering and other pedals. It will work. Thanks for your input.

I extended the steering column shaft by loosening and extending the splined shaft at the floor-level U-joint. By doing that, I am able to shift the shaft to the left enough to be able to invert and mount my dual master cylinder floor mount pedal assembly, thus avoiding the expense of purchasing a suspended system. The driver action area has come together much easier than I thought it would. Next I shall create a dash for gauge and switch installation.