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mtbmr2 said:
My first chassis had 87+ brakes: http://www.pbase.com/mtb_zack/image/98010326

The DRW's I have are 13# each. In 13x7 wheels you have two choices: cheap, 13# steelies, or $200/wheel light wheels.

I'm curious, why does the track width matter? Solo rules for Prepared Class don't regulate track width. (In SOLO the penalty for a wide car is time lost on course having to turn further in slaloms.
Wow I am shocked that you would even ask that question

But I will bite

1) And the most important is to follow the rules

2) Have you seen this formula?

LWT = Wx"g"xH/"g"xT


Herb Adams (father of the Firebird) puts it this way

?As soon a a car starts to go around a corner, its vertical tire loading will change. Because of the cornering force, weight will be transferred from the inside tires to the outside tires. This change in loading is dependent on the cornering force (g), the car track width (T), the height of the center of gravity (H) and the overall weight of the car (W)"

(See the above formula above)

The lateral wt transfer formula is reduced to this formula if you factor 1 "g"

LWT= WH/T

3) I want to road race my car also so it would help if I could buy one set of rims that is legal for both solo II and F/E production

So when I read the stock track is 56.7
http://www.toyota-mr2-turbo-performance-parts.com/car-and-driver-february-1985.html


Then I read in the rules for MR2 track is 60.3 (E and F production)

So that?s the reasons why I was asking

Ok Flame away
Davegt27
 

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Discussion Starter #102
I should have clarified. Solo is a unique animal where extra track doesn't necessarily result in time benefits. Something about slaloming the cones. :p
 

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mtbmr2 said:
I should have clarified. Solo is a unique animal where extra track doesn't necessarily result in time benefits. Something about slaloming the cones. :p

well i am not here to argue especially since i agree with you


Davegt27
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Progress is here: http://www.pbase.com/mtb_zack/image/112386494

The car is going to be Rosso Scuderia Red http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_MvejxvMqTxw/SPYoTt3QWnI/AAAAAAAAAMo/x2PiTfXK1N0/s320/ferrari_rosso_scuderia.jpg)
More famously :smile: :


With Krylon Fuzion Gloss Black lip, sideskirts, and fender flares*. It is perfect for parts of the car likely to encounter cones because it is cheap, durable, bonds to everything, and applies great.


The cockpit is Rustoleum Automotive Primer Light Gray. It is perfect for the interior of the car because it is cheap, durable, a flat finish (no glare, so slip), easy to see fluids on it, and easy to clean.



*Yes, I bought the ZG fender flares. I have probably been looking at the MKI forum too much. I had Carbon Fiber flares in my hands, unfortunately they were a) damaged by FedUPS, and b) too flimsy for cone bashing. They were pretty nice. I have a set of fiberglass flares on the way now.
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
OH, yeah, I forgot. While the aesthetic improvements are at the forefront of my camera's attention right now, I am working to remedy my previous setup short comings:

I have 4 87+ rear strut housings, 2 Koni Race strut inserts, and the T3 front 'flip kit' en route. I already have the T3 RCA kit, an Odyssey battery, some TC sportline tension rods from an AE86 (they'll require some modification/improved hardware) and improved seat mounts, all awaiting the end of this repaint phase. There is always some steel stock in our shop to fabricate a better lower front brace. And I acquired XHeads Keizer wheels.

I have also made some acquisitions for an engine build lately: Fidenza Cam Gears, an T3 Crank pulley, and the EDIS pulley for that. I'm researching the cams, rods, pistons, intake manifold, and ECU options too.

Never ending work.
 

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Instead of the gloss black, try giving Krylon BBQ Black a try, its a kick ass satin color that is uber durable. Try a can on a test panel to have a look see.
 

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Japan Pistons




I am wondering what is a
T3 front 'flip kit'
Some PICs of my crap

Rear rods



RCA and tie rods



Front



Now I am working on another crazy idea

I want to tie the left and right front lower control arms together with a heim jointed threaded tube

Almost done
 

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mtbmr2 said:
*Yes, I bought the ZG fender flares. I have probably been looking at the MKI forum too much. I had Carbon Fiber flares in my hands, unfortunately they were a) damaged by FedUPS, and b) too flimsy for cone bashing. They were pretty nice. I have a set of fiberglass flares on the way now.

I had to go look. My dad said, "order now" :p
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Thanks everyone for the paint input, the red/black solor scheme is set.

Davegt27: In the pictures you posted - you cut the frunk out? Do you have a fuel cell or something mounted up front, it looks like you still have the stock gas tank in the center tunnel.. What are the braided lines for?
Second, the front cross brace you tied it in to the lower control arm mounts?
Third, who makes Japan Pistons? What is the compression ratio for them?
Fourth, is that a front swaybar I see?! :smile:

I am not *quite* ready to run through the suspension with heims etc. I need to figure out the shocks better. I hope to run a year or two on the Prothane kit with the basic 'bolt on' fixes from T3.

zipty: Yeah, if you search here for fender flares there are a number of members who have done a very nice job and they look really good. I have a love for CF, so I tried to get them, but like I said, while very nice and very light, they were cracked, and probably would not survive a cone hit. Fiberglass is only incremently heavier, and I can easily patch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
zipty842 said:
the flairs should work well with my R-DOT setup. besides, its so easy to lighten up these cars that the weight isnt an issue :D
I agree that getting the car to minimum weight is not hard. However, getting it below that to the point where you can add bracing and ballast is more challenging for us than the Miatae.


* I think that is only 1 of several ways a DP MKI is more challenging than a DP Miata. (I can't speak for Tracey Ramsey and the DP MR-S)
 

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Davegt27: In the pictures you posted - you cut the frunk out? Do you have a fuel cell or something mounted up front
I cut out the front trunk to place the fuel cell in at a lower location. they changed the rules so I went back to the stock gas tank.

What are the braided lines for?
the lines are part of the oil system

Second, the front cross brace you tied it in to the lower control arm mounts?
yes

Third, who makes Japan Pistons? What is the compression ratio for them?
CR is 10.5 to 1 I sent one to wiesco so they could copy it so they should have it

Fourth, is that a front sway bar I see?!
Addco--its bigger then the reported 3/4"

Davegt27
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Are you planning on triangulating your lower front brace?

davegt27 said:
I cut out the front trunk to place the fuel cell in at a lower location. they changed the rules so I went back to the stock gas tank.
the lines are part of the oil system
Accusump?


davegt27 said:
Addco--its bigger then the reported 3/4" Davegt27
:p The sway bar comment was a pre-emptive strike, XHead'll be along eventually to ask "What is swaybar?" or the like.
 

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davegt27 said:
Thanks

Finished up my little project I call Lower Cross brace V1...

Davegt27
Where did you find those brackets? I've been looking for something similar for a different project but without success. Gracias.
 
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