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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you GDII for posting the correct diagram for an st246 intake, as JHarris had pointed out the Jp-carparts website had it listed incorrectly. I've since edited the post containing the incorrect intake diagram to reflect this.
 

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Thank you GDII for posting the correct diagram for an st246 intake, as JHarris had pointed out the Jp-carparts website had it listed incorrectly. I've since edited the post containing the incorrect intake diagram to reflect this.
All good. I must have missed where it was corrected. A bit of getting the right diagrams is understanding how things are setup. JP-carparts is a good website for JDM stuff only. I use it mostly because we have JDM cars. Although Megazip is actually a better website for finding part numbers and diagrams as it covers the whole world and has links to part numbers for each PNC so you can click on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
GDII, good info, thank you! I've come across Megazip while I was in the process of gathering parts for my swap, but after seeing reviews stating they weren't reliable retailers, I stopped giving them my web traffic lol

In other news, car is still throwing the P0008 code. Thus far, I've checked continuity from both Cam and Crank sensors to ECU and both tested fine. Resistance for the crank sensor measured 1365 ohms at cold. Still need to check the resistance when warm as well as the resistance for the Cam sensor both hot and cold (it's a real pain to get to with the probes). Will also check timing, was going to check through the Torque app, but still haven't been successful getting the Elm adapter and ECU to talk. Trying another adapter hopefully tonight and if that doesn't work, I will check timing the ol' fashioned way. Bridge pins 13 and 4/5 on the OBDII port, which should be the same as bridging E1 and TE1 at the check connector (thank you mr220v for the info). If timing checks out alright and the Cam sensor is confirmed to be functional, I'm just gonna send it.

Since the JOBD scanner I do have that reads the ECU is throwing a code for MAF circuit, P0101, (something that JHarris and GDII have helped to show never came on the ST246, and Alex Wilhelm pointed out shouldn't even show up as a code) I have reason to hope that the P0008 code is in fact a fluke crosses fingers. Currently the car idles fine, have gone on two short drives to check the clutch adjustment/ get it up to temp/ generally just see how she runs, and she seems to run well. No hesitation or stumbling on acceleration, gets up to speed quickly, and the turbo flutter sounds divine. However, as its got a fresh clutch/ is throwing a P0008 code, I don't plan on pushing it until I can confirm the code is a fluke.

Will continue to update for others dealing with P0008 asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Got a chance to do a few things tonight. Started by testing a second Elm adapter, a BAFX model, and still no dice on getting it to talk with the ECU. Anyone with a working ELM to Torque setup that can provide your setting would be greatly appreciated 🙏

Since I couldn't get the adapter to work, I bridged pins 13 and 4 on my OBDII port. Gathered quite a few codes:

24: IAT Circuit (this was a given as I don't have one at the intake elbow)

38: RR Speed Sensor (fault) Will check resistance/continuity

62: Automatic Shift Solenoid #1 - N/A

63: Automatic Shift Solenoid #2 - N/A

65: VSC/Trac Communication Failure - N/A

77: RR Wheel Speed Sensor (incorrect signal change)

78: Injection Pump or Rear Left Speed Sensor (incorrect signal change) - oddly there is a 78 dtc for both engine and ABS diagnostics. Further inspection required.

After grabbing these codes and not seeing anything in regards to P0008, I decided to check timing. I kept the same pins bridges, grabbed a timing gun and started her up. Gun read a steady 10* BTDC, which is a huge relief. I'm hoping that this confirms the P0008 being a fluke but I will continue to further test my Cam and Crank sensors before drawing a conclusion.

On a side note, is it possible for the Cams and Crank to be out of sync, but still show up as 10* BTDC while testing? I have a feeling the answer is yes so long as the crank was positioned correctly when timing was set. Anywho, the party continues!
 

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Merryfrankster, if I'm understanding you correctly, I believe my ECU connectors would be 4 row headers. Ive included a snapshot of what I have.
Thanks for the response. This is completely off-topic for your situation right now, but it is starting to emerge that many of the four-row ecu's that were thought to be inaccessible can actually be reflashed. The potential is there to delete unwanted codes and adjust other engine parameters. Four-row ecu's started to be rolled out around 2003 maybe earlier in some markets and they share features with the CANbus ECU's that were rolled out starting in 2005, which are all flashable. I don't think that anyone with the right tools has looked very closely at the gen5/st246, aside from dealing with the immobilizer chip.

Anyway more relevant for you is have you thought of using Techstream for your diagnostics? This is the official Toyota diagnostic tool and should help you with disambiguating some of the dtc's that seem to be misreported in the third party apps. The third party apps semi-randomly assign written descriptions to the hex codes for a particular DTC, nowhere is the correct description written in stone, and the third-party descriptions are not vehicle-specific. So the advantage of the manufacturer diagnostic tool lis the written descriptions are assigned correctly by the manufacturer. To use Techsntream, you would need a generic mini-VCI J2534 cable and a download of a cracked version of Techstream. Techstream can be used for vehicles from any market, usdm, europe, asia, what have you. I use it a lot, on a lot of Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Something to think about if you are not getting anywhere with torque pro and JOBD code readers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Anyway more relevant for you is have you thought of using Techstream for your diagnostics?
Merryfrankster, I appreciate this info and find it to be a hopeful sign! I had looked into Techstream, but its expensive and was told it wouldn't communicate with the ST246 ECU (I was most likely told this because they were referring to a US version of Techstream and not thinking of a cracked version). The only problem with this, as happy as I would be to try, is that I no longer have access to torrent sites. If anyone knows where to find a safe crack of it, hook a brother up!

Also, I have a second ST246 ECU, one that originally came with my motor. The case was a little beat up, and the very corner/outer edge of the board was cracked. I don't know if it's functional as I never bothered trying it, but if anyone with the correct diagnostics tools wants to take a whack at it, let me know. I'd be happy to play the guinnea pig for the sake of science.
 

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For Techstream, the cheapest cable option is this, or one like it:

Or if you have a Tactrix Openport 2.0 you can use that.

For software and drivers, follow the instructions in the linked document below. I can't guarantee you this will work with the ST246 but if I recall correctly the installation gives you the choice of which region/market to install. This is a safe install, it is in widespread use in the ZZW30 community.

For your spare ECU, if you could open the case and take a clear picture of the entire PCB, let's see what's inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Is...is this real life? Thank you for bestowing your wisdom in my thread Merryfrankster 🙌 I'm going to give this a try ASAP and even if it doesn't communicate with the ST246, I'll be able to make use of it on my XV20 or my better half's RX.

For your spare ECU, if you could open the case and take a clear picture of the entire PCB, let's see what's inside.
When I get home later tonight I'll take a picture of the ECU and post it here. I'm curious to know if it is a 3 row header or a 4, as I hadn't known there were multiple configurations for the st246 ECU when I first bought the replacement months back, and trying to find any info about it has been fruitless.
 

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When I get home later tonight I'll take a picture of the ECU and post it here. I'm curious to know if it is a 3 row header or a 4, as I hadn't known there were multiple configurations for the st246 ECU when I first bought the replacement months back, and trying to find any info about it has been fruitless.
I'd say there is only one ECU for the ST246 based on the fact it's a JDM car only and it had one part number for the ECU throughout its production. So it's a 4 row only. The ST215 was 3 row.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So in that case, it's safe to say that this ECU is mislabeled?
TOYOTA CALDINA 3SGTE ENGINE COMPUTER = 02-05 ST246W ECU 9717520-905 89661-21410 | eBay

Google search for the Denso number only pulled up listings for the ad and the Denso website didn't recognize the number or the Toyota part number for cross reference (tbf the Toyota PN is not labeled on the ECU itself.

Looks to be the right shape for a Gen 5 ECU? But this has 5 connectors of 3-row headers and my gen 5 ECUs have the x4 4-row header connectors...🤷 It's not like the internet hasn't lied to me once already in this same thread lol
 

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I have checked the AZT and the ZZT ECUs and they don't seem to match this either. The sticker is not the same as the ST ECU nor the AZT and ZZT so it has to be for something else.

EDIT:Seems to be a Toyota Altezza ECU. It's for the automatic transmission version. The manual version is the same as the GEN4 3SGTE in configuration with 4 plugs.
 

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I was hoping to see something like the Jtag port circled in red. This is used for reading or writing the flash file.

76399


But the ST246 ECU does not have it anywhere.

If you can make out any letters on the processor, something like 97CW42AF would confirm that it is a Toshiba-based ECU, cannot be flashed.

Something like 76F00xx e.g. 76F0040 would be a NEC processor, flashable.

Unfortunately the ST246 looks like Toshiba.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I'll for sure crack open my spare tonight and give it a thorough check for a Toshiba serial # or that J-Tag port (ended up exploring the city with the lady and my dog last night). J.Harris' ECU looks similar to mine from what I recall of when I opened it up, so I'm still confused why I couldn't get something like Torque to communicate with it. GDII thanks for the sleuth work, I'll let them know they got this ECU labeled wrong before some poor soul picks it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well folks, I'm happy to report that I finally got the ST246 ECU to connect to my Torque app. After much research on various Russian sites, turns out that K Line is roughly, if not THE equivalent to ISO 14320 - 4 KWP. Maybe that was common knowledge already, but after setting this as the preferred protocol, in addition to the init string, I have been able to successfully connect to the ECU. Pulled up the codes stored and got 4 total, IAT, x2 Shift Solenoids and a P1760 which also appears to be for a AT Shift valve.

The connection to ECU stops working after it completes the scan so it's not perfect, but it has made me feel much better about a possible p0008 code. I'm still going to get a mini VCI and use Techstream to double check the codes against manufacturer data.

Also still going to crack open my spare ECU and get some pics loaded here, as well as check the resistances warm for the crank and cam sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Will definitely update here when I receive the mini VCI and have a laptop to install the TechStream to. Hoping my brother may have one lying around I can use for just that purpose.

Below is a pic of my spare ECU. Confirmed to be the same as J.Harris' albeit his is in better condition. Some exciting news about the ST246 ECU is that one of these chips is labeled NEC! Without that port you mentioned though Merryfrankster I'm in the dark about whether or not it can be flashed.

I've also attached a pic of the damage to my spare to get your guys' opinion on if it's salavgeable or not. I'm thinking it's toast but you never know...
76410
76411
76412
 

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Hmm that's the same dongle I'm using as well...J. Harris, are there any other options in the App you have selected/deselected? I tried the following for my init code:

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 n\ ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00
with only a space between each line break. Wondering if my formatting is off, or if there was a preferred protocol to select but I currently have it set to fast protocol scan and the adapter flashes when communicating, so I don't believe the adapter is faulty.
FWIW the string that I have for my gen4 is very similar but not quite what you have here

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 n\ ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP4 \n ATSW00

and in obd2 adapter settings I have it set to use faster communicaion

I still feel that I lack some functionality as with all other vehicles it will track and log properly but with my mr2 it only logs sensors but nothing saved for the MapView feature. I had this working super well on an acer tablet that I didnt like (too big) and also on an old motorolla atrix but for whatever reason the last 2 LG phones just won't seem to work properly. Dunno if its that bluetooth is at a newer version than my dongle and has some issues that way but its my best guess. Im certainly going to be investing in a hard line cable setup like merryfrankster has pointed out as available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Deft, that's a good point. Could be a difference in firmware versions that may be limiting the data stream, though to be fair I don't know about such things to even have a quasi-informed opinion lol.

Merryfrankster, cleaned up IC600 with some acetone and attached an image. It actually has the TOSHIBA # you listed a few posts back. Also cleaned up IC301 to showcase the NEC chip. I guess it's not out of the question for Toshiba to use other manufacturers components. WHACK.
 

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