Here is my situation. I lost a water pump 1 week ago on Thursday. Car was running fine and about 5mi. from home the pump started making the death noise and when i got home dumped its coolant on my driveway. The car sat for five days due to work/incliment weather and on Wed of this week took it to the shop on a flatbed. Had the water pump and timing belt relpaced. Picked up the car thursday night and have some bad performance. To describe what it feels like is the same feeling when you have a really hard rain and try to accelerate your 2 quickly and the wires are not good and you get the spark jumping, or Ive felt the same bogging in cars Ive had in the past with a bad Catalytic Converter (no CC on this one). There is also an oddity with the heater in the car, when i run for say five minutes and turn it on the air is toasty warm after 1-2 minutes its chilly. As far as Idle the car is smoother than it has ever been and slight revving just produces a nice burble. One other symptom, Being is i have no cat, I get the ineveitable pops upon shifting from the tailpipe, but these were a slight pop pop upon shifting at high rpm and not really pusing it hard into next gear or slowing down with compression, Now each time i shift i get 4-6 overlaid pops (so im thinking much more gas is blowing through). It also feels when I pull out in first that Im pulling out in third some of the time. Plug wires and plugs are otw from next gear as soon as they get back to me, what else should i be looking at? Compression test? Timing check from indipendent garage? other? (garage that did it swears they have the timing correct, not a tooth off(not that they want to take it back apart))
Please give me an opinion as to my prob.
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There is also an oddity with the heater in the car, when i run for say five minutes and turn it on the air is toasty warm after 1-2 minutes its chilly.
Try bleeding the air out of your cooling system using the instructions in the BGB. Most shops don't know about the special requirements of the MR2. I've heard of sporadic idle and other odd problems being caused by this too so it's worth a shot.
Try bleeding the air out of your cooling system using the instructions in the BGB. Most shops don't know about the special requirements of the MR2. I've heard of sporadic idle and other odd problems being caused by this too so it's worth a shot.
they got the cam timing off. This will not necessarily show up when you check the ignition timing.
The intake cam drives the distributor. If the cam is retarded 1 tooth they can correct the ignition timing by turning the distrubutor near the limits of its rotation. But the car still will not run right.
bill
The intake cam drives the distributor. If the cam is retarded 1 tooth they can correct the ignition timing by turning the distrubutor near the limits of its rotation. But the car still will not run right.
bill
Okay the shop I had do the belt swears that is not a tooth off, so they arent going to be inclined to help alot here, what is the best thing to do, bite the bullet and let the stealership fix it? Is there some way to check if cam timing is off as opposed to ingition timing?
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Tell the shop it runs like crap and they need to fix it. billwot probably has it nailed.
You can check if the camshaft is off a tooth by setting the engine at top dead center (notch on crank pulley lined up with 0 on lower timing cover--turn the engine manually using the crank pulley bolt, always turn clockwise, never counter-clockwise) and popping the little round cap off of the upper timing cover. Get a light and a mirror and look directly into the hole. There should be a small hole in the cam gear. Through this small hole you should see a notch on the valve cover behind the cam gear. No notch = timing off. All of this is in the BGB.
But there's really no reason to go through this trouble. Tell the shop the car runs like crap compared to how it ran before you brought it in. Have them check the cam timing per the above procedure and have them show you that it's correct.
You can check if the camshaft is off a tooth by setting the engine at top dead center (notch on crank pulley lined up with 0 on lower timing cover--turn the engine manually using the crank pulley bolt, always turn clockwise, never counter-clockwise) and popping the little round cap off of the upper timing cover. Get a light and a mirror and look directly into the hole. There should be a small hole in the cam gear. Through this small hole you should see a notch on the valve cover behind the cam gear. No notch = timing off. All of this is in the BGB.
But there's really no reason to go through this trouble. Tell the shop the car runs like crap compared to how it ran before you brought it in. Have them check the cam timing per the above procedure and have them show you that it's correct.
1) Its easy to check the ignitin timing. Just use a timing light and follow the instructions.tophs2 said:
2) If the crank timing is correct, the distributor setting will be near the center of the adjustment range. If it is, or needs to be, turned near the full range of adjustment in either direction, then the cm timing is wrong.
bill
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