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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
My point about the stat, is that if you remove it you reduce that maximum flow the pump can force through the radiator, because it short-circuits in the empty stat housing. This will not cause overheating at low power levels, but is likely to at high power levels. I suspect that you head gasket is leaking between the cylinder sealing ring (fire-ring) and the cooling jacket. This will not result in any oil in the coolant and is not an unusual failure. There are 2 things you can do now: 1) get a test kit to test for traces of exhaust gas in the coolant. If it is positive, you have your answer. If it is negative, you still might have a head gasket problem because the tests are not that sensitive. 2) Go over the procedure in the shop manual for system fill and bleeding. Follow this exactly, with the engine off, the car level, and take your time slowly filling. Take it for a short drive to get it up to normal temp without going above moderate power level. After the system thoroughly cools off, recheck and/or adjust the coolant level in the tank. You now have a full system with not air bubbles if it didn't overheat on the short drive. If at this point you can drive easy without overheating, but the system overflows when driven hard, you have a head gasket leak.

Dave
thanks ill get a kit tomorrow for it hopefully if work allows i will post results asap your help in tbis has been pretty invaluable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
thanks ill get a kit tomorrow for it hopefully if work allows i will post results asap your help in tbis has been pretty invaluable.
one last bit of info when i jump on it a bit the guage tends togo all the way down as if it stops working but only momentarily i do know it works cause its never lied about getting hot
 

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one last bit of info when i jump on it a bit the guage tends togo all the way down as if it stops working but only momentarily i do know it works cause its never lied about getting hot
This is not normal. Either you thermostat sticks full-open, or the temp sender is reacting to a slug of exhaust gas entering the cylinder head when you step on it.
 

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Could just be a bad connection that is disturbed when the engine moves in its mounts. It is worth your time to inspect the wiring. The way that the needle moves would probably tell you the difference between an electrical problem and a gas bubble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
This is not normal. Either you thermostat sticks full-open, or the temp sender is reacting to a slug of exhaust gas entering the cylinder head when you step on it.
at the time the tstat was not present i have since purchased a toyota tstat and have installed. thinking that i have found the problem ( maybe) the bleeder valve on top of tstat housing. while everyrhing at first looked alright at closer in spection you can see that the threading on the plastic plunger has been kinda stripped away all but the final two at tge very top ive done what i can to secure it after bleeding system. i took my sweet ass time jacked the rea of the car wayyyyyyyy up in the air filled and bled cooling system it took well over two hours before the idle finally started to balance out. followed the book to the letter. got toyota red coolant toyota tstat its too bad they dont sell toyota patience. after pain staking attention ro the details i reckon she is fully repaired. overflow has not really moved at all since bleeding no issues whatsoever on the test ride which included two wide open freeway racing test. howeverv on rout back to the hsose she did ever so quickly move to red then dropped right back down and after having sat five minutes after turning off the car she boiled over a little into over flow and a couple drops hit the ground via overflow tube breather but than that seems to be fixed. i am going for a test kit today to check for exhaust gas in the coolant as someone here recomended. besides that i think my prlblem has been fixed so a big tbanks to every one here who helped out even tbe ones who were lets just say less than friendly. i will post results from test and perhaps comppresion numbers in the next few days.
 

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at the time the tstat was not present i have since purchased a toyota tstat and have installed. thinking that i have found the problem ( maybe) the bleeder valve on top of tstat housing. while everyrhing at first looked alright at closer in spection you can see that the threading on the plastic plunger has been kinda stripped away all but the final two at tge very top ive done what i can to secure it after bleeding system. i took my sweet ass time jacked the rea of the car wayyyyyyyy up in the air filled and bled cooling system it took well over two hours before the idle finally started to balance out. followed the book to the letter. got toyota red coolant toyota tstat its too bad they dont sell toyota patience. after pain staking attention ro the details i reckon she is fully repaired. overflow has not really moved at all since bleeding no issues whatsoever on the test ride which included two wide open freeway racing test. howeverv on rout back to the hsose she did ever so quickly move to red then dropped right back down and after having sat five minutes after turning off the car she boiled over a little into over flow and a couple drops hit the ground via overflow tube breather but than that seems to be fixed. i am going for a test kit today to check for exhaust gas in the coolant as someone here recomended. besides that i think my prlblem has been fixed so a big tbanks to every one here who helped out even tbe ones who were lets just say less than friendly. i will post results from test and perhaps comppresion numbers in the next few days.
Glad to hear things are getting better. I am confused by your mention of stat housing bleeder. I do not think there is any bleeder of the thermostat housing. Also, you say you followed the shop manual bleeding procedure, but it does not suggest jacking up the rear of the car, and it also sounds like you did this with the engine idling, which is definitely not in the manual and not recommended for a number of reasons. You fill and bleed the system with the engine off and everything at room-temp.

Dave
 

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This car has a bleeder on the thermostat. The plastic screw is often stripped, and so bleeding the car without using this valve has become sort of a de-facto SOP. I had two of these for 30 years, and the scenario of living with everything broken rings true.

It also has the old fashioned cooling system where the coolant forces its way out of the pressure cap into the overflow bottle.
 

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This car has a bleeder on the thermostat. The plastic screw is often stripped, and so bleeding the car without using this valve has become sort of a de-facto SOP. I had two of these for 30 years, and the scenario of living with everything broken rings true.

It also has the old fashioned cooling system where the coolant forces its way out of the pressure cap into the overflow bottle.
You mean the Celica GTS doesn't use a "hot bottle" like the Spyder?
 

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You mean the Celica GTS doesn't use a "hot bottle" like the Spyder?
I don't know about the Celica, but we are talking about the mk1 MR2 here.

I had two of the '86 cars, and one of them since new. Both of them died in '16 from deep frame rust, and that is when I went to the spyder. I didn't look back, because the parts were all gone and every repair was a crisis. I consider the spyder a better car in every way, except maybe luggage space. The hot bottle was totally new to me. Had no idea how that thing worked.
 

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I don't know about the Celica, but we are talking about the mk1 MR2 here.

I had two of the '86 cars, and one of them since new. Both of them died in '16 from deep frame rust, and that is when I went to the spyder. I didn't look back, because the parts were all gone and every repair was a crisis. I consider the spyder a better car in every way, except maybe luggage space. The hot bottle was totally new to me. Had no idea how that thing worked.
Got my threads mixed up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
at the time the tstat was not present i have since purchased a toyota tstat and have installed. thinking that i have found the problem ( maybe) the bleeder valve on top of tstat housing. while everyrhing at first looked alright at closer in spection you can see that the threading on the plastic plunger has been kinda stripped away all but the final two at tge very top ive done what i can to secure it after bleeding system. i took my sweet ass time jacked the rea of the car wayyyyyyyy up in the air filled and bled cooling system it took well over two hours before the idle finally started to balance out. followed the book to the letter. got toyota red coolant toyota tstat its too bad they dont sell toyota patience. after pain staking attention ro the details i reckon she is fully repaired. overflow has not really moved at all since bleeding no issues whatsoever on the test ride which included two wide open freeway racing test. howeverv on rout back to the hsose she did ever so quickly move to red then dropped right back down and after having sat five minutes after turning off the car she boiled over a little into over flow and a couple drops hit the ground via overflow tube breather but than that seems to be fixed. i am going for a test kit today to check for exhaust gas in the coolant as someone here recomended. besides that i think my prlblem has been fixed so a big tbanks to every one here who helped out even tbe ones who were lets just say less than friendly. i will post results from test and perhaps comppresion numbers in the next few days.
Yeah hasty stupid childish me spoke waaaaaayyyyyy too soon overheating now constantly unless im applying heavy load to it which has led me to believe that it most certainly must be the water pump working intermittently if i race the motor thus the car there doesnt seem to be any issues however easy going normal driving it takes all of five miles before the overflow is bubbking away and the idle becomes erratic once again. My frustration is reaching boiling ooint as well. I think perhaps its time to concede and have the head gasket replaced and the water pump as well unless anyone here has anything further to offer in the way of alternatives.!? Dont imagine anyone does , i figure if the wwter pump has gone then certainly the headgasket has as well right so yeah open to ideas
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I don't know about the Celica, but we are talking about the mk1 MR2 here.

I had two of the '86 cars, and one of them since new. Both of them died in '16 from deep frame rust, and that is when I went to the spyder. I didn't look back, because the parts were all gone and every repair was a crisis. I consider the spyder a better car in every way, except maybe luggage space. The hot bottle was totally new to me. Had no idea how that thing worked.
So in not so many words i take it that it is your opinion that i make the jump up to the spyder because i have been thinking about it
 

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So in not so many words i take it that it is your opinion that i make the jump up to the spyder because i have been thinking about it
I think that if your car is rust-free, you should have the head removed and inspect the head and block sealing surfaces to understand what went wrong. If it is the gasket and you did not overheat it too severely, a new head gasket should solve your problems.
 

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So in not so many words i take it that it is your opinion that i make the jump up to the spyder because i have been thinking about it
I really loved the '86 mk1 that I had for 30 years, and I would have kept it up if I could have. I am now at the point where I cannot do any real work on a car myself, and I just couldn't deal with shagging after parts all the time. About ten years ago, I rented a van and drove down to Atlanta to cut the floorpans out of a scrap car to keep mine alive. I particularly liked the way the mk1 felt, and the spyder is not quite like that. However, in any quantitative measure, the spyder is better. That includes the chance of keeping it on the road in any given circumstance. The spyder handles better because it has a considerably longer wheelbase and staggered tires. You could stagger a mk1 to improve the extreme stability, but the wheelbase is baked in. So, I haven't looked back. However, if you like your car then go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I really loved the '86 mk1 that I had for 30 years, and I would have kept it up if I could have. I am now at the point where I cannot do any real work on a car myself, and I just couldn't deal with shagging after parts all the time. About ten years ago, I rented a van and drove down to Atlanta to cut the floorpans out of a scrap car to keep mine alive. I particularly liked the way the mk1 felt, and the spyder is not quite like that. However, in any quantitative measure, the spyder is better. That includes the chance of keeping it on the road in any given circumstance. The spyder handles better because it has a considerably longer wheelbase and staggered tires. You could stagger a mk1 to improve the extreme stability, but the wheelbase is baked in. So, I haven't looked back. However, if you like your car then go for it.
man its really hard you see my post im all over the place i cant make up my mind about anything i love this car i really do but its slow as hell has no kind of torque sure i can go all crazy and swap out the motor but to me thats all greek while i may have a minimal understanding of cars and the ability to keep mine on the road for the mozt part i just dont know **** about pulling lmotors and turbos and blow valves sizing pipes you know all the tuner stuff that comez with experience. my obsession with cars started with a 350z that i put ALOT of money into only to get cut off by a wrig and ended up rolling it six timez inzurance didnt give me even a quarter of what i put into it but still i didnt really know how to work on it. with the insurance money i made the jump that changed it all i bought a 73 le porsche 914 and discovered mid engine driving at its very best in the porsche but didnt take long to see i could not afford to keep up on it i blew one of the heads and the hesds are all independent on that car so four seperate heads impossible to get here in the states for less than 1000 oncepminimum so i sold it and took a 75% loss because of that head. But i learned that i was in love with the mid engine rear wheel drive concept so i bought this mk1 ran it into the ground because i didnt know any better blew the rings and parked it had a motor donated to me from here in this forum swapped it out no rework or build up just a straight swap and all was well for a matter of just months then down she went i parked her and there she sat for six years until may this year when i started on the rebuild here we are at just about 5000 into it and i fear she is shitting on me again im having a hard time deciding what to do. i miss the power of the 350z with a little over 400 @the wheels well 444 to be exact with the vortech supercharger but i have come to absolutely adore the mid engine set up now not having the same kind of power it sure would be a hell of a lot closer in spider but as you say the handling is very different and im a phanatical i still like to go fast i like street racing i love racing on tve freeways in heavy traffic stuff like that as you can see at nearly 50 im still very immature and wrecklessly dangerous and a menace to other drivers on the road but my mk1 kind a keeps me in line as its just not fast but it handles contrary to popular belief just as well if not better than the 914 very few people can drift this car the i can very few i think most here would be blown away cuz all i hear here is how the over steer just makes it impossible for most to handle the way i do. All that said this car has been nothing but a huge headache ive maybe enjoyed stress free driving all of ten or fifteen times. see look at this post this is my mind everyminute of the day literally just fucking everywhere. I dont think ive the ability or patience to do much more with this car and i dont know that the spider would be much better i dont see too many of them on thd roads and think parts will become just as hard to find and be mire expensive even. alright sorry for the long ass post im just babbling here. quick question my rpm guage needle has started to jump around a bit maybe 3 or 400 between 800 and 2000 when at idle i dont hear any change in the motor i dont feel the jump it just kinda spiratically jumps around not constant but erraticaly any ideaz ? and again sorry for the novel maybe you guys read it but im cursed with alm that noise in my head nonstop
 
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