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I need to do a oil change on my 91 NA mr2, and everyone says to use oem filter, well I dont have a spare one and dont have time to order/wait for one. Is it bad to use another filter, or what is a good one to use?
Also what oil should I use..im not sure what was ever used in it before.
 
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go to the dealership they have plenty its like 5 bucks. stay away from FRAM!!!!!!!!! I use mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 ....

Just to scare you some more about using fram filters.,.. it f'ed up my new engine,. i can bet a million bucks that filter had something to do with it.
 

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imo, dino oil will be fine for you application. just get the appropriate weight (since you're in IL, you might want to go with 5w30). if you do synthetic, a good cost-effective alternative to the brand names is the walmart synthetic in 10w30 or 5w30. check the oil analyses at the bobistheoilguy forums - comparable to the name brands.

as for filter, the mobil1 and purolator filters are generally accepted to be of high quality. your dealership should have the oem filter in stock since the 5sfe was also used in the celica and camry, which are quite common.
 

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Go to Napa, buy a Napa Gold filter. They're made by Wix, which is a great company. Cheap too.
 

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sonicboom141 said:
I need to do a oil change on my 91 NA mr2, and everyone says to use oem filter, well I dont have a spare one and dont have time to order/wait for one. Is it bad to use another filter, or what is a good one to use?
Also what oil should I use..im not sure what was ever used in it before.
They should be in stock, and if it is not it will be tommorow.

I order parts all the time from Toyota and 99.9% of them are in the next day.
 

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shimric said:
Just to scare you some more about using fram filters.,.. it f'ed up my new engine,. i can bet a million bucks that filter had something to do with it.
I doubt that.

...please offer your data regarding the engine damaging effects of FRAM oil filters.

I usualy use Toyota oil filters, but on occasion I have put a FRAM on there...my engine has 148,000 miles on it and still runs perfect. I always use FRAM filters on my 88 LeSabre and it still runs great at 18 years old.

Whatever may have caused your engine failure...it is probably least likley to be the oil filter used.
 
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lol yea your right,.. i use fram on my 255k 86 accord,. i still dont trust them for some odd reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess ill just get a mobil synthetic 10w30 since my sticker in my window says mobil, so maybe thats what they used..and go to a dealership tomorrow and buy me a filter.
 

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MISTER2 said:
I doubt that.

...please offer your data regarding the engine damaging effects of FRAM oil filters.
I usualy use Toyota oil filters, but on occasion I have put a FRAM on there...my engine has 148,000 miles on it and still runs perfect. I always use FRAM filters on my 88 LeSabre and it still runs great at 18 years old.
Whatever may have caused your engine failure...it is probably least likley to be the oil filter used.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

fram filters suck. weak anti-drainback valves....weak design...yuck...

dont use anything but synthetic oil... doesnt really matter how new or old your car is, run synthetic. its worth the extra money.
 

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Dijital357 said:
dont use anything but synthetic oil... doesnt really matter how new or old your car is, run synthetic. its worth the extra money.
I don't agree. It's not worth the extra money IMO, especially if you're going to be extra anal and diligent about changing your oil often, like every 2-3K miles.

Keep in mind this is coming from someone who ran Red Line, Royal Purple, or Syntec in all of his cars for a couple years before he wised up and realized it wasn't worth it. If you're a competitive drag racer, and you're looking for every last advantage for power, and you don't care if you're spending $300/yr on motor oil, great. Go for it. That's not me though. My car makes well over 300 whp on old fashioned dinosaur oil, and that's just fine. If I want more power, I'll turn up the boost a pound or two.

If you think synthetic oil has some sort of magical power to keep you from spinning a bearing if you drive around 3 quarts low, or it will somehow protect you from melting a piston from detonation, you're sadly mistaken.

Also, if you have an older car with a lot of miles on it, you might be surprised at the new oil leaks your car will develop with synthetic oil.
 

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synthetic IS more resistant to heat break down.. makes sense for a raced engine.. for street use, it is unnecessary.. the 3K mile oil change is more important than the type of oil you run.
 

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agree completely with hsun chen. dino oil is fine for the vast majority of street driven cars, including mr2s. i also always used mobil1 or redline in my 93T, but really don't ever race it, so decided dino oil would be acceptable. i have dino oil in there now. if you insist on using synthetic, i recommend using supertech synthetic from walmart. basically the same performance (based on virgin and used oil analyses) as the name brands and a fraction of the cost.
 

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I like using synthetic because I'm too lazy to change my oil every 3k miles, I havent changed my oil for 8k miles waiting till I hit 10k.

Rui.
 

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Synthetic Oil

I always use Synthetic Oil in all the turbo cars I own. Turbo oil temps run very high and Synthetic Oil will hold up better. When I run the car hard in the summer and pop the hood to let it idle and cool off when I get home- Holy heat wave, you could easily cook an egg. With that kind of heat, Synthetic Oil offers better protection.
 

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TomsMR2 said:
the 3K mile oil change is more important than the type of oil you run.
And having ENOUGH oil is WAY MORE IMPORTANT than what kind it is, or even how dirty it is.

I'd rather drive on a full crankcase of black-as-night dino oil with 10,000 miles on it than brand-new synthetic oil that is two and half quarts low.

BTW TRD Ruler318, many informed sources would tell you that longer change intervals with synthetic is yet another myth perpetrated to sell more high-dollar synthetic and synthetic blend oils . . . just like the 3,000 mile oil change is generally unnecessary with conventional oils, but hey, it all helps sell more oil, now doesn't it?

Bottom line - if you really want to know if your oil is breaking down or not, or how long you can go with YOUR oil under YOUR driving conditions, you need to pay for an used oil analysis for real information.

Anything else (including my posts) are just random speculations of opinion worth about what they cost - nothing.
 

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Hsun Chen said:
BTW TRD Ruler318, many informed sources would tell you that longer change intervals with synthetic is yet another myth perpetrated to sell more high-dollar synthetic and synthetic blend oils . . . just like the 3,000 mile oil change is generally unnecessary with conventional oils, but hey, it all helps sell more oil, now doesn't it?
well, it doesnt really sell any more oil... the oil im currently running is good for 25K miles (its been in there for 8k now, as clean as the day i poured it in). so im actually SAVING money....
 

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the mileage rating on oil is for its resistance to breakdown.. break down ISNT the problem.. fuel dilusion is! our cars run rich as hell, raw fuel is getting in the oil. fuel + bearings = damage. you can have brand new perfect oil and destroy your engine if theres enough gas in the mix.

if you want to do extended invterval oil changes, have the oil analyzed first to see how much gas you're actually getting in your oil.
 
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