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No power to fuel pump

1102 Views 53 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  GDII
Hi, I have a 1991 MR2 turbo with a 4th gen 3sgte. Engine is fully rebuilt and engine harness from Doug (wiregap). Prior to getting the engine harness I was getting no power to the fuel. I was hoping the new harness might fix it so I can rule that out. The only problem I do have with this harness is that the obd scanner won’t turn on with it. My previous harness I was able to get codes. I replaced the efi relay and the COR still no power to the fuel pump. I only get 1v instead of the 12. I tested the starter relay and the ign relay all passed the testing procedure. I also checked all the fuses up front and replaced the 120a one. The starter is also new as well as the alternator. When I connected the fuel pump straight to the battery it would start right up without shutting off. So my car only starts with starter fluid or if I wire the fuel pump straight to battery. The only thing I changed prior to it not starting was the pipe that goes from the turbo to the side Intercooler. The connector that’s behind the driver seat is also plugged in, battery is also new. All the grounds are connected too, I sanded down the paint just Incase too. Anything else I should look for that could prevent power going to the fuel pump?
Thanks
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Hi, I have a 1991 MR2 turbo with a 4th gen 3sgte. Engine is fully rebuilt and engine harness from Doug (wiregap). Prior to getting the engine harness I was getting no power to the fuel. I was hoping the new harness might fix it so I can rule that out. The only problem I do have with this harness is that the obd scanner won’t turn on with it. My previous harness I was able to get codes. I replaced the efi relay and the COR still no power to the fuel pump. I only get 1v instead of the 12. I tested the starter relay and the ign relay all passed the testing procedure. I also checked all the fuses up front and replaced the 120a one. The starter is also new as well as the alternator. When I connected the fuel pump straight to the battery it would start right up without shutting off. So my car only starts with starter fluid or if I wire the fuel pump straight to battery. The only thing I changed prior to it not starting was the pipe that goes from the turbo to the side Intercooler. The connector that’s behind the driver seat is also plugged in, battery is also new. All the grounds are connected too, I sanded down the paint just Incase too. Anything else I should look for that could prevent power going to the fuel pump?
Thanks
I assumed tested the F/P at the connector under the ashtray.
I assumed tested the F/P at the connector under the ashtray.
Yeah I tested the connector under the ashtray, F/P turns on. The connector from the body harness that connects to the F/P isn’t getting the 12v, it only gets
1v while cranking
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Ok so we need to determine where the 12V is going missing.

The fuel pump is powered from the fuse box in the engine bay with the Circuit Opening Relay.

First you need to determine that 12v is available with the key in the ON position to pin 2 of the relay.
It appears you have continuity between pin 1 of the C/OPN Relay and the fuel pump however still good to check it. Once you've done these checks come back to me and we can move onto the next bits to test.
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Just a bit of background on the system.
The pump will only run when the key is turned to START or the engine is running and the ECU controls the C/OPN Relay with the FC pin. It does not prime like other cars when you turn the key to ON.
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Just a bit of background on the system.
The pump will only run when the key is turned to START or the engine is running and the ECU controls the C/OPN Relay with the FC pin. It does not prime like other cars when you turn the key to ON.
Cannot emphasize this enough - it is the cause of a million misdiagnoses.
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Cannot emphasize this enough - it is the cause of a million misdiagnoses.
I've only worked on Toyota so to me it's normal but I think Honda and Subaru prime the pumps first.
Ok so we need to determine where the 12V is going missing.

The fuel pump is powered from the fuse box in the engine bay with the Circuit Opening Relay.

First you need to determine that 12v is available with the key in the ON position to pin 2 of the relay.
It appears you have continuity between pin 1 of the C/OPN Relay and the fuel pump however still good to check it. Once you've done these checks come back to me and we can move onto the next bits to test.
View attachment 87040

View attachment 87041
View attachment 87042

Just a bit of background on the system.
The pump will only run when the key is turned to START or the engine is running and the ECU controls the C/OPN Relay with the FC pin. It does not prime like other cars when you turn the key to ON.
Ok so on pin 2 I get the 12v and on pin 1 I get OL. I also checked the efi 15a fuse 12v on both sides of the fuse.
Remove the COR and jump pin 2 to pin 1 in the socket. Then the fuel pump should run with the ignition turned to the "ON" position.
If it doesn't, then something is amiss in the wiring leading from the COR (pin 1) to the fuel pump.
If it does, that tells you the COR is bad, or the wiring to pin 3, 4 or 5 is bad.
Ok so on pin 2 I get the 12v and on pin 1 I get OL. I also checked the efi 15a fuse 12v on both sides of the fuse.
Was the chassis an N/A ? I ran into this issue with my Gen 2 3sgte swapped into an NA with Automatic tranny.
Was the chassis an N/A ? I ran into this issue with my Gen 2 3sgte swapped into an NA with Automatic tranny.
I have a Turbo chassis
Remove the COR and jump pin 2 to pin 1 in the socket. Then the fuel pump should run with the ignition turned to the "ON" position.
If it doesn't, then something is amiss in the wiring leading from the COR (pin 1) to the fuel pump.
If it does, that tells you the COR is bad, or the wiring to pin 3, 4 or 5 is bad.
Yeah I didn’t hear the pump when I did that. I also tried checking for voltage by putting one lead on pin 2 and the other lead on the connector that powers the F/P. When I tested the blue/black wire I got .4v and on the white/black wire I got 12v. I did it on the F/P plug as well and I got 12v on both white and blue wires.
Ok so on pin 2 I get the 12v and on pin 1 I get OL. I also checked the efi 15a fuse 12v on both sides of the fuse.
Ok so we are getting 12V to the C/OPN relay. Now to determine that we are getting the relay switching. This can be done by turning the key to START. If you don't want the engine to try crank over you can remove the starter relay for this test. The green one beside the ECU in the trunk behind the carpet.
I had a similar issue. The fuel pump would run with the paper clip at the diagnostic port. I found that the fuel pump resistor was bad. I had a spare resistor, but it can be bypassed to run full speed all the time. Tints and shades Rectangle Font Metal Fashion accessory
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Ok so we are getting 12V to the C/OPN relay. Now to determine that we are getting the relay switching. This can be done by turning the key to START. If you don't want the engine to try crank over you can remove the starter relay for this test. The green one beside the ECU in the trunk behind the carpet.
Ok so I went out to test it and the relay switches. When I turned the key to start I was able to hear it.
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I had a similar issue. The fuel pump would run with the paper clip at the diagnostic port. I found that the fuel pump resistor was bad. I had a spare resistor, but it can be bypassed to run full speed all the time. View attachment 87048
I don’t have that part so we can rule that out. But when I had my previous engine harness I was able to use the diagnostic port and my mr2 would turn on but then turn off right after. The harness I have now doesn’t have that port
I don’t have that part so we can rule that out. But when I had my previous engine harness I was able to use the diagnostic port and my mr2 would turn on but then turn off right after. The harness I have now doesn’t have that port
So, you’re not using the OEM relay and resistor pack?
So, you’re not using the OEM relay and resistor pack?
Yeah I don’t have that resistor pack
Ok so I went out to test it and the relay switches. When I turned the key to start I was able to hear it.
Ok. That is a start. So now can you put a thick wire between pins 1 and 2 of the Circuit Opening Relay and put the starter relay back and try start and run the car?

The key activates the Circuit Opening Relay but once the engine starts the ECU ground the FC pin which keeps the relay closed and pump running. If it runs with the above test then we have to look at the FC pin wiring to determine why it won't work.

Toyota changed the location of the FC pin and wiring from 91 - 93 in the USA or 92 in the rest of the world so you need to do some stuffing around to make it work. That's if we can't get it running first.

I guess some background on the car prior to the GEN4 swap might help. And some photos around the wiring in the trunk.
Ok. That is a start. So now can you put a thick wire between pins 1 and 2 of the Circuit Opening Relay and put the starter relay back and try start and run the car?

The key activates the Circuit Opening Relay but once the engine starts the ECU ground the FC pin which keeps the relay closed and pump running. If it runs with the above test then we have to look at the FC pin wiring to determine why it won't work.

Toyota changed the location of the FC pin and wiring from 91 - 93 in the USA or 92 in the rest of the world so you need to do some stuffing around to make it work. That's if we can't get it running first.

I guess some background on the car prior to the GEN4 swap might help. And some photos around the wiring in the trunk.
When I did my NA to Turbo Swap, I ran a wire with aftermarket relay to the FP. I skipped over the OEM FP relay and resistor pack. Thanks to GDII, he helped me sorted things out, now I have the full functionality of the OEM FP-Relay and resistor pack.
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Ok. That is a start. So now can you put a thick wire between pins 1 and 2 of the Circuit Opening Relay and put the starter relay back and try start and run the car?

The key activates the Circuit Opening Relay but once the engine starts the ECU ground the FC pin which keeps the relay closed and pump running. If it runs with the above test then we have to look at the FC pin wiring to determine why it won't work.

Toyota changed the location of the FC pin and wiring from 91 - 93 in the USA or 92 in the rest of the world so you need to do some stuffing around to make it work. That's if we can't get it running first.

I guess some background on the car prior to the GEN4 swap might help. And some photos around the wiring in the trunk.
I tried it and it wouldn’t start.

I got the car with the swap in already but it ran and it drove. I installed the swap back in after getting the engine rebuilt. It started and drove after as well.
I was having a high idling problem though


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