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245/35-17 should work up front with some minor camber work, possibly partial-rolls as well. Rare size though, in Toyo R1R for now as well as a Hankook sport model. Might try it for my next set just for kicks, w/ 265/35-18 rears.
 

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Oh ya, flew past the 35% part... ya super odd size... i have 18’s in back so I’m use to 35’s... I’m always looking for matching dbl staggered tires... options are bleak
 

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I will be using Alex W’s camber plates front and rear, so I’ll have a lot of adjustment on coilovers to get the wheel from hitting the inside while still fitting.

I’ll be using 235/40 and 255/40 tires on either setup, but it sounds like the wider wheels could make things challenging to fit everywhere up front since you’re 6 mm farther out to get the same wheel to coilover clearance, and the tire tread itself will be slightly wider (maybe another 6-8 mm total?).
Is the 235/40 on a 17x8 super tight up front to fenders and fender liners, or is it a pretty easy fit to where it is simple?

I currently have 225/45-17 on 17x7.5s up front, and it seems there’s a ton of clearance, but it’s hard to really tell where things will hit when bumping the size up that much.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
235/40-17 should be an easier fit than 225/45-17, the OD of the tire is .6" smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
245/35-17 should work up front with some minor camber work, possibly partial-rolls as well. Rare size though, in Toyo R1R for now as well as a Hankook sport model. Might try it for my next set just for kicks, w/ 265/35-18 rears.
My problem with the 245/35-17 front (aside from it only being available in a couple of tires) is, what do you pair it with in the back? Your 265/35-18 is a full 1.5" larger in diameter, which I think is getting to the point where it will look a bit odd.

I guess it's only slightly worse than a 235/40-17 and 275/40-17, which I have on my street tires and it looks "ok", but that's on the limit for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I really like the spoke design of the rear 9.5s, but don’t think a 1.5”front to rear stagger is good If I went with 8” fronts. Keeping a little tire stretch also sounds cool, but not if it’s a total pain fitting the fronts.

Since I don’t want to do more than a light roll with this car I guess I should play it safe with 17x8 +35 and 17x9 +35.
As far as I know the 9.5's should have basically the same spoke design as the 9's. Between 8.5 and 9 is where the RPF1 changes from the convex spokes to the flat spokes.
 

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225-45 is to tall imo.. looks tall as well.. 236/255 seems like a good match... 265’s might work but that also seems to be a not so popular size
 

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My problem with the 245/35-17 front (aside from it only being available in a couple of tires) is, what do you pair it with in the back? Your 265/35-18 is a full 1.5" larger in diameter, which I think is getting to the point where it will look a bit odd...
I see your point, but I think this is one of those 'gotta see it live' things. There are a lot of 215/40-17 and 245/255/40-17 setups out there that sound strange but look decent, not optimum but still passes the vanity test. I've seen 205/40-17 and 255/40-17 also pass the visual test (barely).

Not sure if this pic is visible, but below is 235/40-17 and 275/35-18. Definitely a little strange on paper and in theory, but I haven't heard anyone say this doesn't look great - with almost identical sidewall height on stock suspension. Keeping with the theme of this thread, I wouldn't recommend this for track, but it's fine for the street.

 

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Discussion Starter #30
I see your point, but I think this is one of those 'gotta see it live' things. There are a lot of 215/40-17 and 245/255/40-17 setups out there that sound strange but look decent, not optimum but still passes the vanity test. I've seen 205/40-17 and 255/40-17 also pass the visual test (barely).

Not sure if this pic is visible, but below is 235/40-17 and 275/35-18. Definitely a little strange on paper and in theory, but I haven't heard anyone say this doesn't look great - with almost identical sidewall height on stock suspension. Keeping with the theme of this thread, I wouldn't recommend this for track, but it's fine for the street.
Yeah, a 205/40-17 and 255/40-17 is the same 1.5" diameter difference. 23.5" vs 25".

I'm actually considering picking up another set of wheels this year for a 245/40-17 front and 285/30-18 rear. Both are 24.7", so they are actually a bit smaller than my current 225/45-17 and 255/40-17 (both 25"). I'm not super crazy about the 40mm stagger, but the diameters are pretty perfect. It's too bad nobody makes street tires in 275/35-17...
 

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Yeah I managed to stuff a 245/40/17 on the front. It's on a 17x9 RPF1, +35, no spacers. Also the Yoko A052 which runs pretty darn wide. Doesn't seem like I'll have any issues with rubbing. I got the wheel a bit more inboard using a short spring and making some spring mounts. I also took some caster out of Alex's top mounts by adding holes and pulled the caster arm forward using some offset bushings. I rolled the fenders of course, and hammered out the random pinch rails toyota put in for tire cutting. The tire still hits the back of the wheel well at full lock, but no worse than 215/45s did before I made all those changes. Still have about 1/2 of the fender liner in there lol.

The rear is 255/40/17 on 17x10 +38. Only a 10mm tire stagger but running 9s and 10s should help with the grip quotient, whatever it need be. My car was fairly pushy before. I've only driven it on the street but feels less so now. I don't see getting any more tire under the car from here without a sawzall. I don't think I'll do that, but I fallen far enough down the rabbit hole that it's easier to just keep digging.

First DE will be in a month, but I've made several changes including affixing a shelf on the car so we'll see how it goes. Probably update back eventually. I haven't completely abandoned the idea of 15s, as now I've got the monster truck ride height, but tire availability is way easier with a 245/255-17 setup.

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235/40-17 should be an easier fit than 225/45-17, the OD of the tire is .6" smaller.
Don’t you run into issues clearing the fender and fender liner with the wider tire? Lowering the car a tiny fraction of an inch gets clearance to the same height wise, but a much wider tire and wheel.
 

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Don’t you run into issues clearing the fender and fender liner with the wider tire? Lowering the car a tiny fraction of an inch gets clearance to the same height wise, but a much wider tire and wheel.
The problem you'll run into with taller tires is contacting the back of the wheel well when turning with the Wilhelm upper mounts. The extra camber helps a ton for fitting wheel/tire, but the caster results in the wheel tilting back more. You can take out the pinch rail and liner and this helps, but a 225/45 will still rub for sure. Pulling the whole hub forward with caster arms helps, but you'd be adding even more caster. Depending on your shock travel the upward movement tends to be less of an issue, especially with higher camber, which is somewhat inevitable with the upper mounts. I just trimmed out the liner where it would contact and rolled the fender a bit.
 

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So 17x8.5 with 235/40 and 17x9.5 with 255/40 is easy street on stock front fenders and a roll on the rear?

the 225/45 is a bit tall, but it fits fine as long as you don’t slam the car.
 

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So 17x8.5 with 235/40 and 17x9.5 with 255/40 is easy street on stock front fenders and a roll on the rear?

the 225/45 is a bit tall, but it fits fine as long as you don’t slam the car.
Maybe? Probably the right size to go for. You'll want to get the wheel inboard for both front and rear. That means +30ish in front and +35 or so in the rear, as long as you dont have a spring or perch in the way that is doable on stock fenders. I played all sorts of games going to 2.25 springs and smaller perches along the way.These cars are real dumb for fitting tires.
 

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Agreed, mostly up front though. Not fun.
So 17x8.5 with 235/40 and 17x9.5 with 255/40 is easy street on stock front fenders...
8.5" up front is do-able but I wouldn't say it's easy, 8" wide fronts are easy as they just bolt on. I can't recall anyone just bolting up an 8.5" wide front wheel w/o either physical or visual repercussions, it always requires some work.
 

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I said screw it and cut the fender and did a flare. Here's a 245/40/17 BFG rival on a 17x9 on 1.5~1.75 degrees of camber. lol I dont know how you guys are clearing a 9" wheel but i needed a 10mm spacer and the wheel offset is already 25, I am using Stance XR1 inverted coilovers tho maybe the reason. Anyway, it fits great now and I'll be increasing camber to 3* for autox and road racing for the season.

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As far as I know the 9.5's should have basically the same spoke design as the 9's. Between 8.5 and 9 is where the RPF1 changes from the convex spokes to the flat spokes.
I was thinking the change over was from 8" to 8.5", but I double checked and you're right. The 8.5" still has convex spokes - not a huge fan of that style... but if I have it regardless of an 8 or 8.5... I think I might just go 8"/9" to reduce the headache...

It looks like the previous owner did a little massaging of the fenders for some reason... maybe for the 225/45-17 height... but they're sunken in pretty far. He did have the car slammed when I picked it up. I raised it 1/2" and it drove so much better it was crazy someone would run the car absolutely dumped with tall tires and soft springs with no travel...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yeah I managed to stuff a 245/40/17 on the front. It's on a 17x9 RPF1, +35, no spacers. Also the Yoko A052 which runs pretty darn wide. Doesn't seem like I'll have any issues with rubbing. I got the wheel a bit more inboard using a short spring and making some spring mounts. I also took some caster out of Alex's top mounts by adding holes and pulled the caster arm forward using some offset bushings. I rolled the fenders of course, and hammered out the random pinch rails toyota put in for tire cutting. The tire still hits the back of the wheel well at full lock, but no worse than 215/45s did before I made all those changes. Still have about 1/2 of the fender liner in there lol.

The rear is 255/40/17 on 17x10 +38. Only a 10mm tire stagger but running 9s and 10s should help with the grip quotient, whatever it need be. My car was fairly pushy before. I've only driven it on the street but feels less so now. I don't see getting any more tire under the car from here without a sawzall. I don't think I'll do that, but I fallen far enough down the rabbit hole that it's easier to just keep digging.

First DE will be in a month, but I've made several changes including affixing a shelf on the car so we'll see how it goes. Probably update back eventually. I haven't completely abandoned the idea of 15s, as now I've got the monster truck ride height, but tire availability is way easier with a 245/255-17 setup.
Impressive. And yeah, those Yoko's look super wide. That 245 on the 9 looks wider than most 255's look on 9's.

Don’t you run into issues clearing the fender and fender liner with the wider tire? Lowering the car a tiny fraction of an inch gets clearance to the same height wise, but a much wider tire and wheel.
It's not that much wider, but you are right it's not that much smaller in diameter either. Either way, ride height and suspension stiffness are key to keeping it from contacting the fender liner. The smaller diameter should help quite a bit with clearance at the back of the wheel well at high steering angles. I think by the time that contact is made it's usually more on the tread than on the sidewall, so reducing the diameter helps.

But my car is so far from stock in so many ways it's hard for me to really provide perfect info here. I'm working on memory from 6-8 years ago.

Here's the list of things I can think of now that effect my own wheel / tire clearance in this area:

Longer than stock control arms
Custom strut housings
Hammered pinch weld at back of wheel well
Power steering rack in manual steer chassis (limits steering angle to the right, increases it to the left), spacer on RH end of rack to limit steering to the left to match what's available to the right
Modified fenders of course
Modification to chassis at top of wheel well to provide a bit more bump travel (still hits the fender liner, need to re-build those). Basically cut a few spot welds, pushed the structure up a bit, and re-welded.
 

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Went out and took a bunch of measurements of the front of the car. It looks like an 8.5 should work up front, but might hit the fender liner on the outboard portion where it dips down. I’m guessing most people roll the stock front fender lip up, and let that “self clearance” on the liner? It wouldn’t be that hard to patch up the fender liner here or there, but I want to keep something there.

Looks like the next interference is the pinch weld by the upper strut mounts, and hammering that a bit would gain another few mm of travel.

I was thinking of reusing my 225/45 255/40 Firestone Indy 500 tires that came on the car, but the previous owner let huge gouges get cut in them on the outer tread blocks due to I guess slammed ride height and a large dia tire. Might as well resign myself to replacing those, as a few of the gouges look deep enough to concern me if I took this on track.

I’ve got to decide today on the size I’m buying... guess I need to just pick my poison and live with it.

The 9/10 combo looks amazing, but I don’t think I’m quite there on how much work the 9s look like to fit up front...
 
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