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Discussion Starter #161
Awesome! Is it possible to get all the calipers in red; when I had looked before directly on Wilwood's site, it didn't appear that all of the piston sizes were available in a red finish?
Unfortunately those calipers aren't offered in red as a standard part. They will do custom finishes... for $500 per pair of calipers. At that point, it would be well worth it for you to just paint or perhaps get them powder coated yourself while they are new / clean. The handbrake calipers are offered in red at least...
 

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Discussion Starter #162
I am now offering a budget version of this kit. By swapping to the Wilwood Ultralite rotors and substituting their Forged Narrow Dynalight calipers for the Forged Superlights that I usually use, the price of a complete kit can be reduced by $350. This also saves an additional ~10lb off of what was already a very light weight brake setup. That 10lbs makes the brakes roughly 10lb lighter than stock 91T / NA brakes, and about 35lb lighter than stock 93+ Turbo brakes!

More details on my website. http://wilhelmraceworks.com/lightweight-big-brakes
 

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Are the rotors smaller as well? I'm assuming this is where some of the weight savings comes in. I would also assume if this were the case it should be no problem to run these with a 16" front wheel although I do seem to remember that your "standard ones would fit those too. But just...
 

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Discussion Starter #166
so cheaper and lighter?
Yep, amazing eh? The only down side is that because the rotors are a bit lighter weight and the pads are a bit smaller, I don't think it's quite as well suited to really heavy duty track use, but for most people (including most casual track day people), it should be more than enough.

Wow complete brake kit front and rear with parking brake $2,000? Fantastic price.
Thanks!

Are the rotors smaller as well? I'm assuming this is where some of the weight savings comes in. I would also assume if this were the case it should be no problem to run these with a 16" front wheel although I do seem to remember that your "standard ones would fit those too. But just...
They are a thinner wall / lighter weight casting, but are the same diameter and thickness as the HD rotors in the standard kit. The brackets and hats are all the same, so there is an easy upgrade path in the future to the heavier duty rotors if one wanted to. Both versions of the kit should fit most 16" wheels, provided there is enough spoke clearance.
 

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The ultra light rotors make a great street/autox rotor, maybe doing ok for a beginner on track, but the rotors are very very likely to crack with thermal cycling on the track. I personally went through 2 sets on the front of my S13 for a brake kit I designed (much like Alex's well designed kit to use the cheaper circle track 8x7" stuff).

I thought it was a fluke when my first set went after 8 days on track, but the next lasted maybe 5-6 days and I went to the HD rotors and got ~30+ days and maybe 5-6k street miles, all on a set of DTC-60 pads before they were worn down below min thickness (mostly due to street driving) and I replaced them proactively.

So far the Wilwood UL-32 12.2x1.25" rotors are the only rotors I've ever had to toss due to a large crack forming (always happens when cooling down in pits, and yes, I do nice long cool down laps), and it happened twice, so the metallurgy is not well suited to track usage. The HD rotors, while being about 2.5x the cost, can take all the track abuse you can throw at them.


If you're not going to the track much, then the UL rotors are great for a street car. Keep in mind that the rotor faces are pretty thin, so don't expect to get the ~2-3 mm of wear you could see on a set of stock type rotors then take them to the track and things being fine. They most likely will not.
 

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Discussion Starter #168 (Edited)
The ultra light rotors make a great street/autox rotor, maybe doing ok for a beginner on track, but the rotors are very very likely to crack with thermal cycling on the track. I personally went through 2 sets on the front of my S13 for a brake kit I designed (much like Alex's well designed kit to use the cheaper circle track 8x7" stuff).

I thought it was a fluke when my first set went after 8 days on track, but the next lasted maybe 5-6 days and I went to the HD rotors and got ~30+ days and maybe 5-6k street miles, all on a set of DTC-60 pads before they were worn down below min thickness (mostly due to street driving) and I replaced them proactively.

So far the Wilwood UL-32 12.2x1.25" rotors are the only rotors I've ever had to toss due to a large crack forming (always happens when cooling down in pits, and yes, I do nice long cool down laps), and it happened twice, so the metallurgy is not well suited to track usage. The HD rotors, while being about 2.5x the cost, can take all the track abuse you can throw at them.


If you're not going to the track much, then the UL rotors are great for a street car. Keep in mind that the rotor faces are pretty thin, so don't expect to get the ~2-3 mm of wear you could see on a set of stock type rotors then take them to the track and things being fine. They most likely will not.
Thanks for the info. I have only used the HD rotors myself, and while I suspected something like what you describe would be the case, I am glad to have the confirmation. I definitely agree, the HD rotors are the way to go for a serious track car. For a street car that maybe gets tracked once a year, sounds like the Ultralites would be just fine. Of course, if you are building a serious track car, the extra couple hundred bucks on rotors is probably the least of your worries!
 

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BTW - I thought I should highlight that both the rotors Alex and I are discussing are drop in replacements for each other. Buying a kit with one or the other doesn't lock you into anything. So you can take an ultra-light (I used to refer to it as "medium duty") rotor kit and drive it, then if you find yourself going to the track a lot, toss in some HD rotors that will take seemingly infinite track abuse.

I found that people got confused when I talked about different rotor types, and some didn't realize that it was a straight swap between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Coming *very* soon, a new caliper option for this kit!



Industry leading caliper stiffness and staggered pistons front and rear. Piston sizes are custom to my specifications for the MR2, you won't find these calipers anywhere else.
 

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Wow. Will these also have the E-Brake option?
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Wow. Will these also have the E-Brake option?
The same Wilwood e-brake that I use on the Wilwood kit. These are a drop-in replacement for the Wilwood calipers, the rest of the kit stays the same. They even use the same pad shape, so there are about a thousand options for pads, but by default the Stoptech calipers will come with Stoptech Sport pads.
 

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Oh sweet - I didn't know Stoptech had a caliper that used the Wilwood 7420/Hawk HB521 pad shape! Any idea of the relative cost differential over your Wilwood offering?

Staggered piston sizes would eliminate my number one complaint for the Wilwood 4 piston setups, in that all the differential bore stuff is way too large to be used on most import applications (1.75"/1.88").


Is this an off the shelf caliper from Stoptech with your piston bore sizes, or something completely custom that matches the Forged Superlite fitment?
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Oh sweet - I didn't know Stoptech had a caliper that used the Wilwood 7420/Hawk HB521 pad shape! Any idea of the relative cost differential over your Wilwood offering?

Staggered piston sizes would eliminate my number one complaint for the Wilwood 4 piston setups, in that all the differential bore stuff is way too large to be used on most import applications (1.75"/1.88").


Is this an off the shelf caliper from Stoptech with your piston bore sizes, or something completely custom that matches the Forged Superlite fitment?
The Stoptech calipers are are $650 upgrade on my "Heavy Duty" kit.

Yeah, on one hand it's nice that Wilwood has so many off-the-shelf piston sizes, but there are certainly some holes in the lineup, and you are right, zero differential bore setups with "reasonable" piston sizes.

It's the ST43 caliper with custom piston sizes. Well, custom in the sense that they had to create part numbers for the exact combination of piston sizes, rotor widths, and leading / trailing configurations that I needed, but the piston sizes themselves are from their list of standard sizes.

StopTech STR-43 Caliper
 

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Very cool - so someone could upgrade to this from the Wilwood FSLs as a bolt-in and go setup? Should be very popular with guys who track their cars to eliminate that pad taper.
 

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Would you be able to do a sort of bare version for people who don't live in the US? Seeing as we can't order the custom calipers off the shelf? Would the stoptechs fit 16's?
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Would you be able to do a sort of bare version for people who don't live in the US? Seeing as we can't order the custom calipers off the shelf? Would the stoptechs fit 16's?
I suspect that the Stoptech calipers will fit 16's, but I don't know for certain. It will likely depend on the wheels. Spoke clearance is the bigger issue with the Stoptech calipers, they are quite wide. There is a clearance template on my website that you can print out to check a set of wheels if you want.

I can do all sorts of options for international customers. The usual approach is to order the "basic" kit off of my Wilwood page and then get the Wilwood parts from a local dealer (I know you have a couple in the UK). For the Stoptech stuff it may be a little more difficult, but it may also not be... I haven't tried yet on that. Might be as simple as getting a local Stoptech dealer to order the calipers by part number. They will be special order of course, but it might be the most economical way to get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Another update for these kits. NO MORE SAFETY WIRE! New kits now use socket head cap screws and Mil-Spec self locking "jet nuts" for the rotor to hat connection. This makes for a much quicker and easier installation, and I think it looks a bit better as well.







If you have one of my older kits and want to switch to the new hardware on your next rotor change I can redrill your hats for $10 each, plus $10 each for the new hardware kit.

Thanks to @DefSport for the suggestion!
 
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