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Any reviews? Especially would be interested to hear from somebody with 93+ brakes upgrading to this set up. I am eyeing this kit for quite some time. Also if Alex or somebody could elaborate what "more conservative" means between the Recommended Calipers and Alternate Calipers (Alex Website) for Turbo proportioning valve I would really appreciate that.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Also if Alex or somebody could elaborate what "more conservative" means between the Recommended Calipers and Alternate Calipers (Alex Website) for Turbo proportioning valve I would really appreciate that.
By that I mean that the bias is further forward, leading to less chance of locking the rears first.

That said, I have been running the 1.38/1.25 piston setup with the NA proportioning valve and Porterfield R4 pads (µ of about .55 according to Porterfield). According to the math, the bias at 1g deceleration is about 3% too far rearward. Yet I have had zero issues with rear lockup at deceleration rates at and a little above 1g. So it would seem that my "optimal bias" calculation is itself a little conservative.
 

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I had another track day on this kit and it performed perfect again until I ran out or pad life. I was still running a autox street pad on the front and burnt through it on a couple hard braking points around NMSP. Even with the pad failure I was still in total control with the rear matching nicely to the front. I have ordered a new rotor ring for the front and race pads for the front and rear. I guess I'll be swapping pads for track days now that im running hard enough to need the extra heat life. Im going to be trying the wilwood H compound in the front and the wilwood B compound in the rear. If the rears dont get up to temp Ill move back down to the BP-20. I am running an adjustable proportion valve on the rear so getting different pads dialed in is a matter of a couple sessions on track.
 

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Just finished up on the safety wire part of it. Going to start the install tomorrow. You might want to specify in the instructions what hat works for what rotor, its somewhat self explanatory but it might help. Same for brackets and brake lines.
 

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Finished up just about everything today. Still have to connect the e-brake cables and do a final bleed on the system....holly crap they stop good. Did the brake pad heat-cycling then farted around a little bit on the street, they do squeal pretty good but that is a trade off I can live with.

Only real issue I had on the install was when you do the bolt that holds in the caliper closest to the rear bumper, I kept on getting my socket/wrench stuck. Their was just enough room to when you'd tighten it down that with the thickness of the wrench on a short socket that it would get stuck in that area:(. A open ended 14mm was about the only way to tighten it without getting it stuck so had to guess on what 25lb of torque was. Maybe a hex head bolt with a extension would be a alternative to look into? Also the direction on the e-brake bracket on if it pointed inward or outwork was a slight snag but I mocked everything up ahead of time so not a big issue at all.

Quick cell phone pic
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Finished up just about everything today. Still have to connect the e-brake cables and do a final bleed on the system....holly crap they stop good. Did the brake pad heat-cycling then farted around a little bit on the street, they do squeal pretty good but that is a trade off I can live with.

Only real issue I had on the install was when you do the bolt that holds in the caliper closest to the rear bumper, I kept on getting my socket/wrench stuck. Their was just enough room to when you'd tighten it down that with the thickness of the wrench on a short socket that it would get stuck in that area:(. A open ended 14mm was about the only way to tighten it without getting it stuck so had to guess on what 25lb of torque was. Maybe a hex head bolt with a extension would be a alternative to look into? Also the direction on the e-brake bracket on if it pointed inward or outwork was a slight snag but I mocked everything up ahead of time so not a big issue at all.

Quick cell phone pic
Nice, looks good! Yeah, that one bolt is a little tight in there. But I wonder if your sockets are just a little different size / depth than mine? It's tight... but I didn't have a problem getting a torque wrench on all of them. Thanks for the feedback on the instructions... I need to do a little update on them and add a couple of notes like that.

Alex pm you about the kit
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Maybe... just some cheap HF sockets because my brother lost all my semi decent craftsman ones. Either way awesome kit, I haven't had the chance the beat the crap out of them yet but might take it around multnomah falls/ the historic highway before it starts raining for 6months again.
 

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Hi Alex,

I've got a Rev 1 Turbo.

Could you let me know what type of caliper I'd be looking at? Been reading the posts about proportioning valves and stuff, and it's left me clueless.

Also, what would postage to the UK cost?

Thanks

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Nick, with any of the turbo proportioning valves (to the best of my knowledge, the year doesn't matter), the best caliper options will be the 1.38" front and the 1.12" rear.

The better overall option to really optimize the system is the 1.25" rear (same front), and switch to either an adjustable proportioning valve, or a stock NA valve. But, if you want to avoid that, then use the calipers above.

Shipping to the UK is $95 for the full kit, $75 for the version without the parking brake parts.
 
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Discussion Starter #151
A little update for you guys on wear rates with these brakes.

This year I went to the track 5 times and spent 8 days on the track. Total track time approximately 10 hours.

I started the season with a brand new set of Porterfield R4 pads on the front, and a roughly half used set on the rear. The rotors (Wilwood HD) were nearly new at the beginning of the season.

End of the season my front pads are down to 10.4mm (started at 20mm), and the rears are down to probably 3mm. For next year I will buy one new set of pads for the front, and move the half worn set to the rear. The rotors show almost zero measurable wear, a couple thousandths of an inch maybe.
 

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Nice Alex. Are you using any direct brake cooling via ducts? I'm also assuming your car is now a dedicated track car so this wear is driving to and from and at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
I don't have any ducting yet. It's on my to-do list, but it's a ways down.

It's a not-quite-dedicated track car. I do drive it on the street some, and as you mentioned, I do drive it to and from the track as well. In fact, I just did the math and I put almost 4000 miles on the car this year driving to the track and back. However, the Porterfield R4 squeals like crazy on the street, so for the most part I have been changing pads at the track (I use the R4S for street use and autocross). This is another advantage of the Wilwood calipers, they make pad changes really easy. The rotor wear does include 5000 or so street miles.
 
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Nick, with any of the turbo proportioning valves (to the best of my knowledge, the year doesn't matter), the best caliper options will be the 1.38" front and the 1.12" rear.

The better overall option to really optimize the system is the 1.25" rear (same front), and switch to either an adjustable proportioning valve, or a stock NA valve. But, if you want to avoid that, then use the calipers above.

Shipping to the UK is $95 for the full kit, $75 for the version without the parking brake parts.
Is it a big job swapping valves over anf/or am I likely to notice a difference to make it worth my while?


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Swapping the valve (to another stock one) is 2 bolts and 3 fluid connections. Pretty straight forward. The biggest issue is getting the new one, as I don't know if there are any sure-fire ways to tell the NA from the turbo versions, so you have to either trust the source, or buy it new from the dealer to be sure of getting the one you want.

The biggest differences will occur under low grip situations (for example, wet) where you can't brake at the higher deceleration rates needed for the setup with the smaller rear piston and turbo valve to be optimal. Both setups should have similar ultimate performance, it's those situations where the peak of grip occurs at say 60% of normal that the difference will appear.
 
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I'm not familiar with that break update thing but i consider updating mine for safety purpose. I would have taken 92 Turbo calipers but as far as i see this set might be better. But i want to be able to put the stock 15" rims on the car. If i would chose a smaller willwood caliber would this be possible or are 16" necessary ?
 

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Discussion Starter #157
I'm not sure if you will fit these under 15" rims or not. The front, maybe, but the parking caliper in the rear might be a problem. There is a clearance template on my website that you can download / print and use to check your wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
I am pleased to announce that Wilhelm Raceworks is now an authorized Wilwood dealer! This means that the BEST MR2 brake kit on the market just got even more affordable, as well as meaning you don't have to spend the time to purchase rotors / calipers / pads yourself.

Of course, if you want to buy those yourself the basic kit is still available. But if you take the time to compare the kit cost plus the cost of the parts at Summit Racing you will find my complete kit price quite attractive.

Wilhelm Raceworks, LLC - Lightweight Big Brake Kit
 

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I am pleased to announce that Wilhelm Raceworks is now an authorized Wilwood dealer! This means that the BEST MR2 brake kit on the market just got even more affordable, as well as meaning you don't have to spend the time to purchase rotors / calipers / pads yourself.

Of course, if you want to buy those yourself the basic kit is still available. But if you take the time to compare the kit cost plus the cost of the parts at Summit Racing you will find my complete kit price quite attractive.

Wilhelm Raceworks, LLC - Lightweight Big Brake Kit
Awesome! Is it possible to get all the calipers in red; when I had looked before directly on Wilwood's site, it didn't appear that all of the piston sizes were available in a red finish?
 
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