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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I have been away for a while but I have been checking in every once in a while to see how everyone is doing. It looks like there is a lot more activity on everyones projects.

I have been busy while I was away. I have researched various ways of producing a manifold that you guys would want. I first looked at casting them out of high nickle iron which would have been the best as far as durability. The quotes I got were $20,000 just for the tooling of the mold. I am still looking at various options with casting but for now it is not a choice for affordability.

I looked at getting the tubes mandrel bent and that would have pushed the cost to over $1200 a manifold so this option was not good either.

So I went to work to see how I could build a manifold that was very durable but didn't take so much time to make each one. So this is what I came up with.




With this new design it has much better merge points which helps it flow well and also gives me a better weld joint which makes it stronger. I also looked at how top header manufacturers build their headers. The tubes now go through the main flange and are welded flush on the matting surface. This provides a great weld with perfect penetration, once again making the manifold more durable and stronger. All of the manifolds are now TIG welded which looks much better than the MIG and provides a better weld. The new manifold is also lighter than the old design. I will also make them with provisions for an external wastegate if you would like.

Along with the added strength and less weight I can now ceramic coat them for no additional cost. So you can get a ceramic coated manifold for the same price as the previous manifold. If you have my previous version of manifold get a hold of me as I would like to give you a deal on the coating if you would like to have it coated.

If you have any questions or if you have any suggestions on things you would like to see added or changed please E-mail me.

Thanks,

Jeremy
 

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very nice rally2... when i saw close ups of your old collector design i was a tad disapointed... the merge collector will do a MUCH cleaner job :)... nice work in progression... what size weld-els do you use 1.25?

on a side note... how's that baby alien of yours doing?... i just had my 2nd back in dec so we're kind of on the same page when it comes to that :)...

good work... keep it up.

mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The price will stay the same as the last one at $300. I will be doing one with a T25 flange. The T25 flange is much smaller than the T3 flange and will be more difficult to do but I will as the demand for them has gone up. Besides I like the GT28R anyway and it would make a superb turbo for the MK1.

I was doing the T3 because Carl makes a great one for the T25 already and the T3 costs less than the new GT series turbos. I was making one for the guys on a budget and figured they would want to go with the less expensive turbo.

I am ready to take orders so If you would like one just shoot me some mail. The new flanges should be here in three weeks and I should be able to start shipping them out in March. Same thing as last time first orders in are the first shipped out.

Brent and Donalson

Thanks for the replies. The family is doing well. It is good to see you guys still here. I hope to see you this summer if you are going to the 2005 meet.
 

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Is payment due up front or is it there some kind of deposit? I am very interested in this, as I hope to do a turbo in the future.

matt
 

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Oh sure I just built mine. Hey what is the dimensions of the manifold you know like how far does it hang down and how far does it stick out from the block. Just in case mine doesnt work out.
 

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fusionprizm said:
Oh sure I just built mine. Hey what is the dimensions of the manifold you know like how far does it hang down and how far does it stick out from the block. Just in case mine doesnt work out.
Ah good questions, Does to clear the starter like the HKS manifold? If so im definantly getting one.
 

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how are you fulfilling the orders? pay first then make, or are you making small batches at a time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here are a few answers to some of the above questions.

The manifold was designed so it would clear the A/C , oil filter and starter.

In the past I had people pay up front and then shipped them the product as soon as it was done kind of in a semi-group buy fashion. The reason I did this is that it allowed me to buy the parts needed in larger quantities to keep the price low. I am still following this build to order style as people have liked it in the past. I make sure to keep everyone posted on the progress of each manifold and send pictures of it during it's progress so no one is in the dark on where they stand.

I can get the flanges separate for those that want to make their own manifolds. I always encourage people that want to build their own. Although complete manifolds will get priority on the flanges that I receive.

As far as the dimensions go the manifold sticks out six inches from the block. It's just enough to clear the starter and leave room between the firewall and turbo.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. You can also look at my site which I will update shortly to hopefully answer the majority of questions and concerns you might have.

Thanks again,

Jeremy

www.4agte.com
 

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How big of a turbo will fit? I'm going to be using a GT25/40.. its quite large to say the least.. I'm planning on building my own manifold, but if this one will work, and the turbo will fit and clear the oil filter and firewall, I'll buy one..
http://upload.3sgtemr2.com/upload/oldenginenewturbo.JPG
theres a pic of it mounted to my old GZE.. Oh, I'll be using the 20v head also, so I'd need a 20v flange, not 16v..

Brando
 

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I would buy one for $300. I need to upgrade to the GT28RS and this would be a good manifold to pair it with.

Jeremy, Did you consider adding a diagonal brace from the engine flange to the turbo flange?

Also, can you put this on the scale and weigh it for us?

Thanks,
Brent
 
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