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My '96 E36 M3 had fairly optimal pedal placement, but for heel and toe work, you can't beat my old '94 Miata. Those cars make you feel like Fangio.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Can you put numbers to that? perhaps a picture of the pedals with a tape measure across the width?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Getting really close to the final design (note these are just parts to test with, not the actual look of the final parts. I had to add reinforcement so the 3d printed parts would be strong enough to let me actuate the pedal and measure things fully

73567
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Also, that pedal is going to be an upgrade option. it'll also fit the stock pedal face. There are two holes in the adapter so both pedal faces can be at the correct height
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, i'm pretty happy with it at this point. Note that the pedal face is slightly angled clockwise more than it should be because of a defect in the 3d print. but I'm happy with the position.

73570


Pedal travel is just under 3" usable and about 3 1/4" travel until it hits the carpet with aa whole extra 1" of travel available after the firewall stop so you'd have to smash it pretty hard to overtravel the actual pedal assembly.

Now i just need to draw up the final drawings to be ready for a production run. Hopefully i'll have these parts ready for sale in 5 weeks or so.
 

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A lot of my german cars either had an engineered stop, usually plastic that was mounted to the floor pan or the pedal itself hinged on the floor (and also had a stop at the top end of the pedal throw. That would be a pain on the MR2 though, the last thing mine needs is more holes. My sienna seems to bottom out on the floor but I've got weathertech mats . I'm not sure that's on purpose.. You get the booby prize if you can guess my car pictured below.
73572
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The MR2 has a stop designed in also but it's not a separate part number. It's a combination of the shape of the pedal stem and a flat spot on the firewall. I've followed that plan with my new design.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
73605

This pedal has a nice velocity sensitive kickdown feature in it which is really nice but unfortunately it's about a 12 degree pedal sensor so we can't use it in the MR2. I technically could use it by mixing and matching the sensor and case but that starts to make things even more expensive.
 

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Will there be adjustment in the pedal assembly somehow? Either shimming or a. Alternate part that isn’t really expensive?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Will there be adjustment in the pedal assembly somehow? Either shimming or a. Alternate part that isn’t really expensive?
So that's actually the beauty of using a metal rod, it can be relatively easily modified. I am using high tensile strength steel so it won't just over your knee but if you clamp it in a vice and apply enough leverage you won't have a problem moving things around a bit. My thought is to offer them assembled and in pieces for those that want to mess with the position without needing to destroy the one time use retaining clip.

There's also two holes for the pad height to make it compatible with most OEM Toyota pads so you can go wider if you need something like that.

Which direction are you thinking you're wanting to shim it?
 

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So that's actually the beauty of using a metal rod, it can be relatively easily modified. I am using high tensile strength steel so it won't just over your knee but if you clamp it in a vice and apply enough leverage you won't have a problem moving things around a bit. My thought is to offer them assembled and in pieces for those that want to mess with the position without needing to destroy the one time use retaining clip.

There's also two holes for the pad height to make it compatible with most OEM Toyota pads so you can go wider if you need something like that.

Which direction are you thinking you're wanting to shim it?
Based on stock pedal height, I wouldn’t mind it being about 3-4 mm higher, and maybe 2-3 mm closer to the brake pedal.

I suppose I could bend the factory pedal rod too, but from experience it’s really tough to make fine adjustments without the pita of pulling the pedal and reinstalling it at least a few times. Shims are very repeatable and reliable with how much change you get. Bonus points if they’re slotted so you can loosen fasteners and slide them in/out.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
3-4mm higher won't be a problem. You'll be able to add a few washers between the pedal bracket and firewall. The contact area is only the size of a washer anyways so it's not even a compromise. Each standard washer adds 2mm but you can get thin ones also if you wanted to go just 3mm.

To move the assembly to the left i would suggest you just use the wider pedal face instead: and a bit of searching should find some even wider ones being available.
73637
 
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