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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished doing the swap on my 91 turbo to JDM gen 2 motor and it was WAY too much work. Anyways, I used the 91 wiring harness and CPU with the JDM igniter coil. I also eliminated the TVIS and installed a custom fuel setup with blueprinted 440s, dual feed rail, a walbro, and a SARD FPR. I'm running at around 40psi fuel at idle. I don't have any boost controller or anything, I'm just trying to get the car driveable on stock boost until I decide what kind of EMS I want to buy. I have an aftermarket boost guage but I haven't hooked it up yet.

The car hesitates at low RPM alot, but seems fine at higher RPM. I haven't driven it much, just around the block, because I'm afraid I'll break something. It seems to idle a bit high, but it isn't blowing smoke or anything. I'm wondering what I should do next. Should I just go ahead and splurge and get an AEM EMS? Should I hold out for a nemesis? Should I just get an MBC and a wideband? What's my next step? Could elimination of the TVIS cause huge hesitation problems? Did I forget to connect something? Is my timing WAY off? Is it octane related? Should I turn down my FPR?
 

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it might be because of your custom fuel setup. I would go back to stock first. Anytime you do an upgrade it is wise to do one at a time. That way if your mod made your car run like crap you would be able to diagnose the problem.
 

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First, what kinda of turbo are you running currently and what turbo are you planning on using? If you are using an aftermarket turbo, then I definitely highly suggest that you put your whole "setup" together and get it tuned.
Stock fuel components *according to the mr2 specialist on the boards* are only good up to 275 and thats using the components at it's fullest potential. Seeing that you've already upgraded your fuel components I take it that your goals are above that.
As, for the hesitation, it could be a number of things, ....but if I were to guess,...I'd say you were running extremely rich. Does it smell like gas when you drive around? Our cars run rich to begin with, but regardless, I'd say before you go on driving your car around, get your car onto a dyno and get it tuned as soon as possible.. That would be my best suggestion to you. Best of luck and just puttin' in my 2cents.

IL
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm thinking it might be a combination of TVIS elimination and increased fuel. I'm looking to get 300hp. But I'm using the stock JDM CT26, I guess as far as I can go with that for now, maybe get a new turbo down the road. I'm gonna put the functional TVIS plate back in, turn down my fuel pressure, double check my ground wires, and see if that makes a difference. The car is going to be an auto-x, hillclimb, and drift car, no dragging, so I don't need ridiculous HP, I'm more concerned with reliability than high HP for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got it going, it ran great for about 2 days. Then threw a CE light. I don't have a code reader so I just reset the ECU. Now it runs fine off boost, but when boost kicks in it hesitates. I'm thinking I've got a boost leak, it hasn't thrown another CE light though. I also suspect that my radiator fans are not coming on. I ordered some new IC hoses and will get some clamps, hopefully that will fix the boost leak problem. Does anyone know if the stock temperature guage is an analogue gauge that reads actual temperature or is it one of those switch type guages that only shows normal temp or overheated temp?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea mac, I already tried making a pressure tester a while back. Home depot/lowes has NOTHING in 2.75", guess I'm going to have to go to a tractor trailor supply place and get some radiator hose. Supra, thanks for the info, I was worried something was hooked up wrong.

The previous owner had a problem with the BPV popping off, I tried to tighten the screw on it and I think it is stripped. I have an extra BPV and IC piping, I think I'm gonna try that first.

I got a notice that I have to come in for an emmission test on friday. I HAD A FREAKIN TEST 13 MONTHS AGO!!! I thought it was every two years?? Anyway, gotta put my stock intake/exhaust back on and rig up my EGR system to look nice and stockey.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, today I replaced the BPV and figured out what codes are throwing my CEL. Its showing code 25 and 26. Which is too rich and too lean. I guess my custom fuel setup isn't working right. However, I don't understand how I could be hitting both too rich and too lean conditions. Is it possible that I'm hitting fuel cut with only intake and exhaust? I don't think I have a boost leak, although I'll be checking more thoroughly sometime in the next couple of days. Since I replaced the BPV and turned down the FPR I haven't thrown another CEL, but it still bogs down hard under high boost. I suppose if its bogging during high boost and not throwing a CEL I can still pass smog. I'm getting sick of screwing with it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Today I fiddled with my fuel pressure regulator. I got it running pretty good, but then when I hit boost, the CE light comes on, then goes off at low revs. So I check the code and its 34-Boost pressure too high. How the heck am I getting too high of boost pressure without a boost controller and running stock boost? Will installing my FCD fix this?
 

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well its better running to rich than lean or too lean... well the reason (from what u posted) ur running 440 injectors on 40lbs of fuel pressure (and alot of gas wasting)... if i might add, thats alot of fuel being dumped in those cylinders if im not mistaken... also ur running w/out the tvis sooo ur not goin to get that good low-end torque/power because of TVIS (long story on how that works) ur setp is good if ur hittin' 18-2x lbs of boost pressure at hogher rpms... ur running with the stock JDM turbo on stock fuel cut and stock boost pressure, so u wouldnt be able to hit above ~12.x lbs/boost (correct me if im wrong). That the reason why ur idle is so jacked up is only because of fuel issues (too much). To fix the problem either go back to stock (as stated aove by 93mr2tbar) and save the setup til u get a big turbo setup or higher boost ranges -or- get a stand-alone PCM and get it tuned for the desired RPM to fuel range thru out the power bands.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the info mister2turbo. However, I put the TVIS back in. Now my main prob is the ecu is seeing an overboost condition. But I don't understand how I could get overboost on a stock boost control setup. The idle is not too bad, once it warms up it holds steady around 900. I've got another boost solenoid I can install, I'm gonna try that and see if that changes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I turned down my FPR all the way and its running great now. After four hours of driving I threw ZERO codes. Then....I got a code 71-EGR. Anyone have any ideas on heating up the egr sensor to 70* C?
 
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