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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
alright, i've had my 2 for about 2 months now and i've run into a little trouble. basically when it's cold or wet outside the motor doesn't want to start. it cranks, gets a spark, but simply doesn't want to turn over.

i recently replaced the plugs, wires, fluids, etc, and it hasn't helped at all. the problem has happened 3 or 4 times and i'm starting to get pretty frustrated.

i appreciate any help or guidance you guys can give.

luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i'm definitely smelling fuel, but we haven't been checking the amount of fuel the injectors are cranking out. the problem is inconsistent, as in the car works one day not the other, but i'll check it out.

thanks for the idea
 

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Is it a slow crank or a normal crank?

The cold start injector is expensive, and it's special order since 93+'s don't use it.
 

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Replace the distributor cap and rotor...mine did this too briefly, new cap/rotor fixed the issue. just because you see a spark does not mean the plugs are actually sparking under the added resistance of 180 lbs of compressed charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks to all the responses.

i just replaced the distributor cap & rotor, and all worked perfectly. well until it started the same thing again, lol. i've narrowed down the problem so hopefully i can help some of you genius guys out.

what is basically happening is the car is being flooded when it's cold because the car doesn't start up immediately. the car seems to be running rich all the time, even when it does start, because it smokes a little and you can smell fuel. the car starts pefectly fine when it's warm outside, but doesn't when it's cold. i'm pretty puzzled and am thinking it's one of a couple things.

>cold start injector
>some seal?

thanks for the help,
luke
 

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Well there's the ECU temperature sensor for fuel enrichment and leaky injectors. The 91-92's run noticeably richer than 93+'s because of their primitive fuel system. Test the resistance on the cold start injector: it should be about 2-4 ohms cold, if I remember correctly.

You can also test the ECU temp sensor as well for any problems. The leaky injectors probably entail the most work, so if all else fails, that might be it.

I have somewhat of a similar problem with cold starts but normal warm starts, so I tested my cold start injector and found that it was pretty much dead. I already replaced the ECU temp sensor from a previous experience of running abnormally rich. The only difference in my experience is that I'm not getting enough fuel so the engine dies out. I don't smell fuel like you do. So ...

Jay

EDIT: Almost forgot about the cold start time injector switch as well. Do test that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll check the resistance of the cold start injector tomorrow morning. It makes the most sense that this will be the problem, but odds are it's something more major. (cars hate me)
 

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ISCV
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's the update. I checked through everything, Cold Start Injector, ISCV, etc, and they all are showing normal numbers. I found that the coolant system is leaking some coolant, and I'm guessing I need to replace the water pump.

From the signs the car is showing I think a water pump could be the possible overall problem.
>High idle 1500-2000 cold, then 1300 when warm
>Coolant leak; however, very minor
>Something causing the car to have trouble starting when cold
>Minor smoking from exhaust once warmed up

Another thought my dad had was possibly that the tip of the Cold Start Injector was clogged, thanks to 130k with the EGR. I think I'm going to go pull it out and clean it anyways, but have any of you heard of clogged Cold Start Injector?

Luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The CSI was really gunked up, but after cleaning it really didn't help anything. I'm starting to get pretty puzzled by this whole problem.
 
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