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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I got my car on the dyno yesterday with some tuning. My dyno graph was really weird in my opinon. It was measured on a mustang dyno at around 45 degress F. The car made 254 lb/ft of torque, and 217 hp at 17 psi. Heres the catch.....If I ran stock timing, around 10 degrees, the car made like 180 hp and 200 lb/ft of torque. and ran like absolute crap, it was wayyy retarded. To get it to make and power and run good I had to run around 19-25 degrees of timing. There was no pinging except for when it hit a lean spike at around 3800-4200 rpm. After that it went rich at around 10.5 all the way to redline. The car also pops alot at idle, almost like it is lean, is this from the timeing?

Can someone host the Graph for me?

Mods- CP pistons 8.5-1 cr, Cometic head gasket, Hks EVC 1 set at 17psi (max), Greddy intercooler, Turbohoses.com upgrade pipes, Ganador Exhaust ( I know your jealous), Spal intercooler fan.
 

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Hit the "Free Image Hosting" link at the top of the page. I would suggest keeping the timing stock at 10 deg.

Alex
 

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BigMike253 said:
So I got my car on the dyno yesterday with some tuning.
What are you using to tune it?

I would guess that one or both cams are off by a tooth on the timing belt.

Mustang numbers are complete crap, unless you have before and after results for the same car, without the dyno operator changing the calibration of the dyno in between. My old car made ~165RWHP on the break-in tune at a Mustang dyno in the Tacoma area. When it was put on the Dynojet (with no changes made to the car) it put down over 50RWHP more than on the Mustang.

I also once "lost" 30RWHP on the same Mustang dyno, with two weeks between dyno days, and no changes made to the car in between. The Mustangs are good for tuning cars on, but the numbers they put out are completely arbitrary, and should not be compared to other dynos, even other Mustang dynos.

Ken
 

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18-20 degrees of timing as measured at idle by jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals, or 18-20 degrees of timing at 7000rpm and 17 psi of boost by utilizing a standalone ECU's timing map?
 

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I agree that Mustang numbers can't be comapred to a DynoJet, but the newer Mustangs seem to be highly consistant - when the owner leaves them set to OE Mustang spec. On the Evo boards unmodified Mustangs have been highly consistant across the country. And yeah, they read LOW!

They are great for tuning - I have tuned my Evo on one (several times after different mods) and gone straight to the race track without any need for street tuning to "finish" a tune.
 

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toyracer said:
KBlake said:
Mustang numbers are complete crap/QUOTE]

I have lived to see the day!!!

Wow.

You've come a long way Ken.
Hi Stephen,
The dyno day I referenced was over 3 years ago, and was when I decided to stop using a Mustang dyno. Coincidentally, Torque Freaks opened up, and installed a 248x, and they were the first shop in town to have an up to date, fully functional Dynojet. I haven't posted Mustang numbers in years, other than to demonstrate past test performed, like the TVIS testing. Those plots are still applicable, since they were used to show the change from changing one variable, and the testing was all performed on the same car/dyno/day, with no changes to the calibration.

Best regards,

Ken
 

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erioshi said:
I agree that Mustang numbers can't be comapred to a DynoJet, but the newer Mustangs seem to be highly consistant - when the owner leaves them set to OE Mustang spec.
The problem is, determining whether the owner HAS left them set to OE Mustang spec. As customers, we only have their word for it. If you go to a Dynojet, you don't have to worry about that, since there is no calibration to monkey around with.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as tuning, the only things that were used was an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the adjustment on the distributor. The Mustang dyno is very new, only a year old. The owner of the shop who tuned is a very good friend and not in to tuning/dynoing cars to give people false numbers to make himself look better. I pretty sure he hasen't messed with the specs at all. I've heard mustang dyno read low, and that you can't come pair numbers with other types of dynos.
I'm also thinking my t-belt is off a tooth, becuase the car also pops alot at idle, and almost 20 degrees of timing is kind of a lot to be running to have the car make any kind of power....right?
I'll try to get that graph up tonight, so you guys can have a better look.
 

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BigMike253 said:
....
I'm also thinking my t-belt is off a tooth, becuase the car also pops alot at idle, and almost 20 degrees of timing is kind of a lot to be running to have the car make any kind of power....right?
I'll try to get that graph up tonight, so you guys can have a better look.
Any way you could show a pic of your cam gears at TDC? I'd like to see what you consider one tooth off---just for reference on mine.
 

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BigMike253 said:
http://carpron.com/multisite/v/Upload/Bigmike253/dyno+graph.JPG.html
The lean spot was from my mechanic tinkering with the AFM a little too much. The only mods I have at that time where: Ganador exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Boost Controller @ 17 psi
that lean spot looks exactly how the stock ECU reacts to increased boost. It freaks out a little and then settles back to the extra rich condition by just cutting loose the injector duty cycle to max.

I data log Boost and AFR all the time at different boost levels and that lean hump just after hitting boost becomes more pronounced as boost rises above stock levels.
 
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