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I had a 92 turbo with 14" steelies for winter tires. Tried to use them on my 93 turbo and they wouldn't fit over the rotors. Not sure about the stock wheels, I never had them, have 17s for summer.
92 would have 91 small brakes while the 93 has bigger brakes. This would be why they don't fit. They also space the caliper out a little more due to the thicker rotor.
 

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1992 MR2 1MZ-FE
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I upgraded my front brakes from 91 NA to 91 turbo and there is definitely more grab (using stock rotors and pads for both) it is not a huge difference. My stopping distances are better but I also got a hell of a deal on them via a close out sale. Good pads would have done about the same as what changing over the front calipers would do in all honesty. If I hadn’t gotten the calipers and the brackets for sub $200 for reman parts I would have just gotten nicer pads. It’s a meh upgrade...if you are trying to run small rims and tires with a 2GR swap you’re gonna have bigger problems...like how good your life insurance policy is.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Everyone keeps telling me to buy bigger wheels. ITS POINTLESS WHEN ITS BEING STREET DRIVEN. Maybe if you live near twisty roads then maybe, but I live in Missouri where its pretty flat with average roads.
 

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It's not pointless when there are very few good performance tires left for 14" wheels, especially when you plan to put a 300+hp motor with tons of torque in it. Tire Rack lists zero tires available in the stock 205/60-14 rear size. ZERO. Discount Tire Direct has one garbage all-season in that size. There are a couple of OK tires available in 195/60-14, but no options to stagger the rear like the car is supposed to have.

A 2GR is going to be a burnout machine with a 195 rear tire, just sayin. That's what sounds pointless to me. Why swap the motor if you won't be able to use the power?
 

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Everyone keeps telling me to buy bigger wheels. ITS POINTLESS WHEN ITS BEING STREET DRIVEN. Maybe if you live near twisty roads then maybe, but I live in Missouri where its pretty flat with average roads.
How many MR2s do you think aren't street driven? Bigger wheels aren't for twisty roads, they're for looks and better tire selection. Look at what options you have for tires on 14" wheels.

Edit: Alex beat me to it
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I guess what I'm trying to say is I want to learn how to mechanically work on an engine before worrying about tires. I will have some money left possibly to spend on wheels/tires or coilovers. What do you guys think I should spend for. I'm opting in for wheels and tires after what you guys said. It has tein lowering springs but the struts seem shot. They bounce like a lowrider haha. It would be pretty funny to have a burnout machine;)
 

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Discussion Starter #48
If you do recommend a wheel what should I get? Looking at something for about 700-800 max.
 

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There are quite a few wheels for that price range, but there's not a whole lot of quality out there for less than $200/wheel. Most are Chinese cheapies for that price.

I'd browse Enkei's collection, even their Chinese garbage is better than most.
 

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You only need to buy them once, it's worth spending a bit more. Just buy them when you need them, not when you want them.
 

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I have a 17x225 tire on the rear of my 1mzfe swap and it will cut the tires loose with relative ease and it’s undriveable in the rain unless I baby the **** out of it. I have been facing the wrong way more than once because of having more torque. You should do your supporting mods before your swap. Bigger rims, better tires, better suspension, better brake pads and rotors, etc...there’s no point in having a lot of power if you can’t enjoy it SAFELY and not out your car in a ditch. It’s not glamorous like an engine swap but it makes the car more fun to enjoy. I know my next big purchase is wider wheels so I can fit more tire because I really don’t like losing traction so easily. You’ll easily have 70+ more bhp than I do. Do it the right way and don’t cut corners...or don’t and put it in a ditch like a bunch of other people do
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I'm really not looking for glamour by all means. I came into buying this mr2 with the intention to learn how to mechanically work on a car. That is my first go to, but If you really mean what your saying ill definitely be at least getting wider tires and staggered. This thread was a lot of help. Ill be starting soon on the donor car swap after my interior is done. Follow me on facebook as Boy Dad Car.

 

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Going 2GR is a massive jump if you want to learn how to work on the car. Starting with the wheels, brakes and suspension is probably a safer bet then learning how to drive this particular car fast before dropping in a rather powerful engine. Although I do admire your drive to want to do that.

Just remember the 5SFE had at most 135hp from new and performance tyres were available for the 14" wheels. This is no longer the case and getting a bigger set where good tyres are able to be obtained is a better idea. I had to go up from my 15s to 17s, 1 because tyres were no longer available and 2, I wanted a change after 6+ years of owning the car. Now I can get a set of the tyres I need any time I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Didn't really want to buy new wheels but it seems I'm probably gonna have to. I've been looking at maybe konig because they are pretty good for bang for your buck
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I also want to learn MECHANICALLY how to work on a car. I do have tien lowering springs. Would that be good enough with the wheel and tire setup?
 

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I also want to learn MECHANICALLY how to work on a car. I do have tien lowering springs. Would that be good enough with the wheel and tire setup?
These tend to sit very low inducing bump steer and they are quite soft so you end up hitting the bump stops and they feel stiff because of that. I have personally experienced this however others say they feel fine. Dampers can play a big part in suspension feel. Easy to swap back if you don't like them.

Installing them will teach you a bit about the car so it will expand your knowledge like you are wanting to do. I've done it many times now and can swap out a set of springs in a few hours with only hand tools now. You don't need spring compressors to do this either, the SW20 springs aren't loaded up much and the lowering springs really have minimal load due to the soft part of the coils.

I say, do it to learn. You might like these springs. If not, easy to swap back. A hack saw to cut the brake line mounting tabs is a good idea, also loosen the main shock top nut BEFORE you lift the car up or take the suspension out.

Then once done get a wheel alignment, these cars are sensitive to the wrong setup. Lowering will adjust all settings such as camber and toe.
 
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