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the reason why some ppl get abit anoyed i think on this site about the swap questions is because all these questions have been asked and answered many times

i have done enough swaps to help some ppl out but i dont have anything written down i just figure it out as i need with this site and the BGB this book has everything you need to do just about anything

for example i just rewired my 92 cruise to work with my 06 matrix wheel
i have not tried it yet since i need a new speed sensor but as soon as its tested i will post it somewhere

then i garante the question will be asked a 100 times when the answer is there

now dont get me wrong asking for help is very smart but just try a little research first and that will actually make it easyer for the ppl that are trying to explain how to go about what you are doing
lol if this made any sence at all

anyways back on topic
 

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true the ecu pin outs are there in the sticky, and theres' wiring diagrams online or at your local bgb which is what i will be using, but if all the threads on different swap issues were gathered up and put into a sticky at this main forum i think it would be a little more benificial than how to put a 3s head on a 5s block
 

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first off....

it's ALWAYS better to get a complete swap and not just bits and pieces.... even though the seller claims it'll be 100% complete alot of times it isn't. it is always adviseable to get a complete swap from a reputable vendor who knows what it takes to have a complete NA/turbo swap.

we make swap axles for folks who bought the turbo swap but didn't get the axles for the turbo trans. our axles bolt to the turbo stubshafts and use the NA hubs. much less costly route to go than buying turbo axles ($350+ each from toyota) and turbo hubs ($180+ each from toyota), bearings ($60+ each) then getting the hubs pressed into the NA knuckle ($60 each or so). also make swap axles for the MK1.5 guys and the v-6 guys as well ;)

as far as the body harness is concerned... it's not rocket science... use the complete body harness that came with the clip or have www.phoenixtuning.com (DR. Tweak) splice/convert our NA harness to turbo. keep things simple folks.... try doing things the cheap or ghetto way and you'll end up at a shop paying BIG dollas for some mechanic to troubleshoot your electrical issue.

i always use the NA clusters with the turbo swaps. no need for the turbo cluster IMO unless used in a turbo car originally....

for a A/T to 5-spd turbo swap i'd replace the body harness with the turbo one. there will be ALOT of wires left over which run down the center console and around behind the drivers seat but the only one to be concerned with is the fuel pump wire (blue/blk stripe)

anyways... i have to run but if there are any more questions please feel free to ask.

engine pictures here:
http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/album65
can enlarge the pics by clicking on them a second time after it opens
 

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Sorry to raid the current discussion but one of my friends works at a shop and they were discussing my future plans to do an NA - turbo motor (build) swap. The guy there said i needed a clip for the undercarriage? I've read a lot of threads on here on swaps and never heard about that before so I was just asking to double check. So my question is do i need the undercarriage or just the parts listed on the first page?
 

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you do need a clip or full swap for sure but not so much for suspension parts but for all mounts, wiring, shifter cables, hubs, axles
 

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Hi guys. New to this and have been reading through the posts. Not really sure what’s going on really. I’ve been doing research on n/a to turbo swaps and decided I’m going to do it myself. I have the MK2 1997 rev4 n/a GT t-bar (uk). So far I have the following out of a rev2 Turbo someone local is breaking...
Engine (complete
Turbo
Ecu
Engine harness
Rear hubs and shafts
Fuel pump
Engine + Gearbox mounts

do I need any other parts before I start taking it all apart? Also I’m going to cut the n/a body harness as I’ve seen it’s better to do this. Slightly worried I won’t be able to wire this up correct. What exactly do you have to cut? Is this on both n/a body loom and turbo engine loom or?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Hi all I have a gen 2 3sge I'm planning to swap to a 3sgte I've got the 3sgte harness and ecu I'm looking for a diagram or any info how how to merg my car to the 3sgte harness .

Thanks
 

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Hi guys. New to this and have been reading through the posts. Not really sure what’s going on really. I’ve been doing research on n/a to turbo swaps and decided I’m going to do it myself. I have the MK2 1997 rev4 n/a GT t-bar (uk). So far I have the following out of a rev2 Turbo someone local is breaking...
Engine (complete
Turbo
Ecu
Engine harness
Rear hubs and shafts
Fuel pump
Engine + Gearbox mounts

do I need any other parts before I start taking it all apart? Also I’m going to cut the n/a body harness as I’ve seen it’s better to do this. Slightly worried I won’t be able to wire this up correct. What exactly do you have to cut? Is this on both n/a body loom and turbo engine loom or?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Sorry I didn't even see this, was replying to the other guy below you.

No need to cut the NA body harness. It's mostly engine except one plug between engine and body and one between the body and ECU. You need to keep things from your car to make things work with the GEN2 3SGTE setup. I have just done a GEN4 swap into a 1996 JDM REV3 NA but that's quite a different thing. For you the wiring is far more simple but I can't be 100% sure on how to match everything up as the NA ECU on your car has 4 plugs while the turbo ECU has 3. To be honest, it shouldn't be too hard to move things around to get it to work. I have written up a 'how to' for wiring for someone doing an early GEN2 JDM 3SGTE engine into a REV2 JDM 3SGE car. To get the engine working it was only 1 wire but to make everything work as per OEM its about 8-10 wires. Quite simple really. But I'd need to do the same information and check it with your car first as it won't be the same.

You either need the shift cables or add in a spacer to one cable to make it work properly. I assume you are getting the E153 gearbox too?
 
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