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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just completed my NA to JDM second gen 3SGTE turbo swap. Along the process i have come to this board to look for FAQ about the swap. So i decided to write a full explaination aobut myths and truths about the swap to help anyone else in the future. I hope a mod makes this a sticky.

First off what you will need. My best advice is to buy a clip or half cut with everything there. This guide is designed for the person peicing the swap together. Here is a list of the foundation parts you will need:

Motor
Turbo
Turbo Exhaust
Intercooler and piping
Transmition (LSD or normal)
Turbo Axles
Turbo Rear Hubs and Calipers *Read post 11
Turbo Engine Harnes
Turbo Body Harness
USDM or JDM Turbo ECU
AFM and piping
Shifter cables
Fuel Pump Relay and resistor packs
Coil and ingitor packs
Turbo engine mounts
Fuel lines
Stock BPV (by pass valve)
Boost controll Unit
Misc. piping


Things you will need to replace and consider repalcing while the motor is not in the car itself:

Timing belt and Water Pump
Valve Cover Gasket
Turbo or aftermarket Fuel Pump (this is a must and should be done)
Clutch
Release bearing
Boost Guage
Spark Plugs and Wires
Rear brake rotors and pads (this is due to the new hubs) *Note your stock NA rotors will fit
Transmition bolts and misc bolts. You have to order from Toyota as they are special bolts.

My tip would be

Once you have peiced all your parts together you are ready for the swap. Here are some snags I came upon and which most will come upon to.

If you have a LSD transmition do you need LSD axles?

Yes, dont cheap out on your project, do it right!

Can I use my NA body harness ?

Yes and No, you will have to splice your NA harness into the Turbo ECU which is a PITA and you will be short a few wires. more specifically the Fuel pump relay connector is missing in the NA harness. once again do it right buy a Turbo body harness.

Can I use my existing NA hubs with my Turbo Axles?

No, they do not line up. The NA hubs are not suited for the more beefyier Turbo Axles

Will Everything line up?

Yes everythign will line up as expected. get the proper engine mounts and the engine will go in no problem. There are already pre-drileld hoels for the intercooler, all the units and whatnot.

Whats the best way to put in the engine?

Lift the car up on jack stands and slide the engine under the car and raise up.

How hard is it to find part needed for the swap?

the MR2 board and ebay are your best friends, if you wait a little bit you will find sweet deals on this board.

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being very hard how hard would you find this swap?

My answer would be 5, since it was my first time and i wa goign with the flow seeing what i needed as i went along.

How much will all this cost me?


My guess after all said and done and you include shipping and duties(Canada) you are lookign at aorund 4000CND dollars. this is doing it yourself.



if you have any more questions feel free to ask me. this is just some of the thigns i could think off Good luck with the swap. If anyone feels i missed somehting or wants to add soemhting feel free to add on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
good rachet set (10m,12m,14m17m,19m are the most common)
engine hoist
tourqe ar
hamer
screw drivers

you really dont need and special tools. If you have access to air tools, it makes it easier and faster
 

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Thanks

Thanks for all the info. When you did your swap did you put the wiring harnesses in and then the engine or the other way around? And what did you use to jack up the engine into the car? Do you think a motorcycle jack would work?
 

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SpincrazeeMR2 said:
Thanks for all the info. When you did your swap did you put the wiring harnesses in and then the engine or the other way around? And what did you use to jack up the engine into the car? Do you think a motorcycle jack would work?
Use an engine lift to lift the engine? ;)

As for the wiring, it can definitely be done with a USDM body harness, and this is easier and cleaner than tearing your interior apart, IMO. The only circuit missing is the FPR, as mentioned. It is a simple circuit and can easily be added, or even bypassed. I think I only ended up soldering and heatshrinking about 15 wires total on my NA->Gen3 swap. I would assume a Gen2 swap is comparable.
 

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^_^

I don't have an engine lift but I have a motorcycle jack. I was planning on sliding the engine beneath the car and pushing it upwards.
If I had the entire Gen3 harness wouldn't it be easier to just install that? And before you put the engine in do you run the harness through the car first?
Again thanks a million, I really appreciate all the help. ^_^
 

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In my opinion, it is easier to rewire and sell the body harness to someone for ~2-300 bucks than dismantle the interior and still have to change out plugs and have stuff that doesn't work. If everything north of the engine bay works now, why would you mess with it?

Of course, my opinion isn't shared by everybody and there is a reason that gen3 body harnesses sell for rediculous money. :D

If you're handy with wiring diagrams and a soldering iron, then you'll be fine with a cut harness. All of the necessary wiring can be accomplished at the rear fuse box and ECU....requiring splicing of ~15 wires.

You'll be looking at spending a lot on little things that will come up anyway...An engine lift can be had for under $200 and would probably be easier and safer than a motorcycle jack. You can always try the m-jack and see. I love garage ingenuity....remember that post a while back where that guy built a tower of cinder blocks and wrapped them with pallet-wrap? There was the other guy who used a tree for a hoist.

Just have fun and be careful.
 

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I heard differently about the N/A spindles you can press out the N/A splines and bearings and press in turbo bearings and splines and it will work, maybe you need to add that, becasue I have to do that becasue the mr2 turbo donor car I boutght has a broken spindle :(
 

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Andoman66 said:
I heard differently about the N/A spindles you can press out the N/A splines and bearings and press in turbo bearings and splines and it will work, maybe you need to add that, becasue I have to do that becasue the mr2 turbo donor car I boutght has a broken spindle :(

All spindles and wheel bearings are the same, the difference is the hub that is pressed in. There are only two hub part #s, one for turbo and one for NA.
 

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Tyler H said:
If you're handy with wiring diagrams and a soldering iron, then you'll be fine with a cut harness. All of the necessary wiring can be accomplished at the rear fuse box and ECU....requiring splicing of ~15 wires.
Hmm 15 wires you say. Alright, guess I'll try it that way. I can solder pretty good but the wiring diagrams part is a little shady in my case. I've been building up a little collection on data of the gen3 swap and I think I have the diagrams in there somewhere. I think I will invest in a engine hoist (they have a engine hoist and stand deal at checkers going for 300) as for using a tree...lmao :ghetto: but if it worked, damn I'd brag about that. Once again thanks for the info. If I have a hard time with the wiring expect me to come bug you again :smile:
 

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Sorry guys... one more thing I forgot to ask. Did any of you have to get the ecu remapped or adjusted? Somebody told me that the gen3 ecu doesn't do too great running on 92 octane and the original fuel maps. Is this true? Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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I've been using 93 and dumping in some octane booster occasionally. It seems to run fine, and the octane booster is probably unnecessary unless you know you're going to beat on it.
 

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Alright i'm smack dab in the middle of my n/a to 2nd gen 3sgte swap. Almost have the engine all prepped and ready. So i'm looking at the wiring harness from kick panel back and I dont see why I couldn't use the interior harness. I completly understand having to use the engine bay wiring harness. I just dont have much information on the interior portion of the wiring harness. Any help would be excellent
Kris
1991-1993
Gen II with a CT-20 yes yes I know :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i got a connector that plugs into the ecu from the body harness (the turbo one is different then the na) Now u gotta use the wires from the Turbo connector and match them up to the NA body harness. Yoy will also have to bypass a the fuel pump relay. Trust me i went that route and its soo much eaier to by a turbo body harness.


good luck.

BTW my swap runns beautifully, love the power :)
 
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