My Road Course Worthy Roll Bar Build - DIY in my garage

7955 Views 20 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Sal-the-man, May 22, 2014

Blurvision

Discussion Starter · Jun 9, 2011

5

I got it in my head about two months ago that none of the pre-made roll bars are good enough for a serious high speed crash. So I decided to make my own. Lots of planning and prep went into this, I didnt really realize how much work it would be to make this bar, until its all done. But the end result is worth all the work.

For those interested, a most valuable resource is the forums, www.pirate4x4.com specifically http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/index.html.
That was my bible as well as the many helpful hints and tricks posted on pirate4x4, more so than another other forum, made this possible with just the required tools and some thinking.

The main goal of this bar is safety, I wanted it to be as far back against the firewall as possible and welded to the strongest parts of the chassis.

I used NASA and SCCA rule books as my guides to specific construction requirements. All tubing is 1.75 x .120 DOM
Even though I do not compete wheel to wheel with the car, this should provide me with the best way to construct the roll bar, and be a good starting point for a full cage in the future.

Here goes.

First Take some measurements following the pirate4x4 how-to.
Mine was measured to keep the interior in place.

_DSC0006_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Get your fun tools ready! JD2 manual bender and awesome Jet band saw does the trick.

_DSC0007_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0011 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Almost there. The idea is, if it fits in the template it will fit in the car.

_DSC0017 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0019 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

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Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #2 · Jun 9, 2011

5

_DSC0015 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0020 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Fab up the mounting plates. This is a very strong part of the chassis

_DSC0004 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

I chose to use the area by the rear glass for two reasons. I feel this is a stronger area than the almost vertical firewall. And with the hoop being so far back, the angle to the firewall would be too steep, going against the requirements in the rule book.

_DSC0003_3 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

It fits!

_DSC0031 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

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Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 9, 2011

4

Add on diagonal supports, solid bar from drivers head. Also a diagonal for the passenger.

_DSC0001_4 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Add on harness bar and rear supports.

_DSC0002_5 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

After you test fit it one last time, tig weld it all together

_DSC0005_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0004_2_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

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Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 9, 2011

4

Test fit one last time, paint

_DSC0001_2_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

It still fits! Looking good in white!

_DSC0001_2_3 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Tig weld it into the car

_DSC0008_2_3 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0005_2_5 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

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Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 9, 2011

3

Clean and mask off the rest, paint

_DSC0003_2_5 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0001_2_4 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0009_2_3 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

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Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 9, 2011 (Edited)

4

Looks awesome! And most importantly its very safe. Lots of room behind the seats.

_DSC0020_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0014_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0012_2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

_DSC0006_2_5 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

May investigate some carpet on the firewall
But for now its Done

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walka

· #7 · Jun 9, 2011

Looks really clean and well done! Good job!

Annihilation

· #8 · Jun 11, 2011

looks slow

nammerbboi

· #9 · Jun 11, 2011

looks great nice work

surok

· #10 · Jun 12, 2011

that looks fantastic

MR2DSP

· #11 · Jun 12, 2011

You really did a good job there Mark

JDM SNUKUMZ

· #12 · Jun 12, 2011

Looks really good man!

Angel

PDoane

· #13 · Jun 13, 2011

Excellent job!

kameleon/jdmmr2

· #14 · Jun 13, 2011

Nicely integrated rollbar!

qwrty

· #15 · Jul 17, 2013

looks good!

by chance your doing a couple more......!?!?

quadzjr

· #16 · Jul 17, 2013 (Edited)

good job. The part of the cage you built exceeds the required wall thickness, so you are good to go if you decide to go wheel to wheel with it later.

how was it manually bending the the tube?

Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jul 17, 2013

qwrty, yes I can build you one. Where are you located?

quadzjr, its quite a workout manually bending

Agilt

· #18 · Mar 7, 2014

Bumping back up...

Blurvision, how many linear feet did you use to construct the hoop, braces, and legs? Looking to approximate how much it would weigh. (1.75x.120 is 2.089lbs per ft)

I'm at the point of wanting race seats and harnesses in mine and the autocross trick of mounting a 4 point harness to the clothes hook for use with the stock seat won't fly for a real tech inspection.

Blurvision

Discussion Starter · #19 · Mar 20, 2014

I dont recall, check out the link I posted to pirate 4x4 how to. Easiest way is to just measure it out. The tubing is typically sold in 10' lengths. one will be cutting is tight. Two you will have leftover if you screw up.

Alex W

· #20 · Mar 20, 2014

Blurvision said:
I dont recall, check out the link I posted to pirate 4x4 how to. Easiest way is to just measure it out. The tubing is typically sold in 10' lengths. one will be cutting is tight. Two you will have leftover if you screw up.

Depends also on how far you go. Each diagonal is ~4ft, and the harness bar is about 4ft (total length, obviously two of those will be multiple shorter pieces). But that's 12' right there. Rough estimate, based on those other two measurements, is that the main hoop will be *about* 4' wide, and 3' tall, so that's another 10' for the main hoop. Plus rear kickers.

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