I am usually a real pessimist but I cannot help but be excited about this car. I just got it Monday for a song and a dance and except for being smacked in the front it is in *awesome* condition, nice paint, no dings, no rust, great interior (although ugly striped seats the dash is like new, and even the steering wheel is in pretty good shape. It runs and drives like a charm with no pulls or shimmies, and it still has the engine lid prop, spare tire cover and jack <snicker>
We are going to put it on the "******* frame machine" tonight to pull the front back out then it is time to hunt down a fender/bumper/light/hood then shoot the front with some paint and I hope to be on the road with it <grin> The biggest bummer is the windshield which I have not found for cheaper than about $250 <sigh>
Boy...you just are not going to let that exhaust go are you ;-) I am glad it made such an impact on you <snicker>
I have been meaning to ask you...do you have any of the little plugs (round black) that plug the holes in the floorpan of a 2? The race car is missing the ones on the passenger side floorboard and every once in a while little mystery bits come hurtling up from the pavement below <grin> If so maybe you can throw those in with the exhaust when you send it back ;-)
hey im just wondering what does it mean if the car "pulls or shimmies" cause my car sometimes jerks when the supercharger kicks in and out. Is there a way to fix this?
What I was talking about was the suspension...it seems straight and tight which matches the visual inspection in that the suspension wasn't "tweaked".
If you have any slop in your suspension (bushings, strut tops etc) you can get strange shifts and wiggles. Your problem might be motor mounts.... You can try (be careful) putting the car in gear and while holding the brakes firmly start letting the clutch out to "load" the drivetrain...have someone watching the engine to see how much it moves. If the intake manifold drops out of sight <grin> you know the motor mounts are toast....
But if you plug the holes so the mystery bits don't come in, how will the mystery fluids that result from a near miss get out? Oh, passenger side - never mind.
ITAMR2: No kidding...fortunately the seat has a wee bit of padding that should soak up most of it <snicker>
86AW11: Many thanks
GaToy: Not sure...but this seems to be a pattern ehe? I am a sucker for any running 2 under $500 (this is my 4th) This one was *much* better than the one you got. It took less than 4 hours with hammers, prybars, chunks of wood and a long 4x4 to get it tip-top We did not even use the "******* frame machine" since the damage was so light.
Mace: Yeah...I called the guy earlier and the reserve was too high. After it did not sell I called him back and turns out it wasn't even his car (and those pics on ebay were not flattering at all...I suspect they were camera phone pics). The guy that owned it has a shop about 15 minutes from my house and I know both his boys so...we worked out a decent price and I hauled it away
Here is the final result on the repair...good as new ;-) Hopefully I will hook up with the replacement body parts this weekend, do some test fitting/tweaking then remove the parts one last time for paint prep...
No...I can't even get the "race car" on the track after over a year of hard labor and $ so...no way I am tackling another race car <grin> This is to be a semi-daily driver. I need something to satisfy my need for speed on a regular/reliable basis so.... I plan to get this one up to par, then slap some suspension/tires/wheels on it then drive it till something breaks
Really...it is a no-brainer...just hold the brake and load up the drive train <shrug>
Also...don't buy new ones...either pour your's solid or get the inserts they are selling on the board here....
Coty
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