somethings unplugged.
My engine will not run for more than 3 seconds. Why?
On a newly rebuilt engine, the engine will not run for more than 3 seconds. It starts every time though. The only code that the ECU throws is for a water temperature sensor, which is physically broken. It just seems like at first the rpms go up to around 2000, then drop to about 1000, and then all of a sudden it just stalls. Any ideas?
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Like what? Where do I start looking?TomsMR2 said:somethings unplugged.
distributer, map, etc etc 
theres not much to check, i suggest checking everything in the engine bay, including vaccume lines!
theres not much to check, i suggest checking everything in the engine bay, including vaccume lines!
Anybody else have any other suggestions? I'll check Toms, but I won't get home till the afternoon. Anybody else have similar experiences?
Could be a vacuum leak, which includes the engine oil dipstick. Do a good job of inspecting vacuum lines for routing and leaks.
See: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/emission_control_system.htm
Or, Fuel pressure or volume. There may be enough at start up to get the engine cranked, but not to sustain the fuel flow at the injectors. This reminds me of an old carburated engine that will feed off of the fuel in the float bowl, but there wasn't filling enough volume flowing to keep it full. So, I'd check for low pressure (indicating a bad/weak fuel pump) or low volume (bad pump OR plugged line/filter).
You can find the info to check the fuel pressure at:
http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/efi_system.htm
See: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/emission_control_system.htm
Or, Fuel pressure or volume. There may be enough at start up to get the engine cranked, but not to sustain the fuel flow at the injectors. This reminds me of an old carburated engine that will feed off of the fuel in the float bowl, but there wasn't filling enough volume flowing to keep it full. So, I'd check for low pressure (indicating a bad/weak fuel pump) or low volume (bad pump OR plugged line/filter).
You can find the info to check the fuel pressure at:
http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/efi_system.htm
Since you brought the issue of fuel up, I should mention that I have a third of a tank of gas in the car. It is about 1 year old. Could that be the issue? Should I fill the other 2/3 with fresh 87 octane, or should I even put 93 octane, just to mix it?
oh yeah... that could do it. depends on the conditions and all, but yeah you should throw some fresh fuel in there. fuel goes stale pretty quickly. definitely do that.clawhammer said:Since you brought the issue of fuel up, I should mention that I have a third of a tank of gas in the car. It is about 1 year old. Could that be the issue? Should I fill the other 2/3 with fresh 87 octane, or should I even put 93 octane, just to mix it?
I had a similar problem after a swap. I think my issue was caused by vapor lock in the fuel rail. (air in the fuel rail). I had to start the car and keep spraying starter fluid in the throttle body. After a while it sputtered then ran on its own.
I added 6.5 gallons of 89, so now it's about half old half new. I glanced under the car, and noticed that the intake manifold was wet. I had my mom smell it because I can't smell things, and she said it's gas. So, looks like I have a gasoline leak.
I will keep you guys updated. I'll definetely try the starting fluid in the throttle body as well.
Another thing, tonight I started it up, it stalled, and then I couldn't start it again. I'm almost positive that it's fuel related.
I will keep you guys updated. I'll definetely try the starting fluid in the throttle body as well.
Another thing, tonight I started it up, it stalled, and then I couldn't start it again. I'm almost positive that it's fuel related.
it is probably way flooded.... you might need to take out the spark plugs and crank the engine (with towel over top) to dry it out. pull off the intake and everything....
I dunno...if it was flooded with wet spark plugs it wouldn't fire at all. I still think it's a fuel problem, but on the weak supply side.
More than likely you checked this already, but when the AFM connector is not connected properly (or just plain disconnected) the car will tend to start, but drop rpms and then die.
Whatever the problem is, let us know when you've fixed it.
Whatever the problem is, let us know when you've fixed it.
^^ he has a 5sfe. they do not have an AFM.
Ok. That means its MAP sensored. Would it have a similar effect to the AFM if it was disfunctional (most unlikely) or disconnected?Dijital357 said:^^ he has a 5sfe. they do not have an AFM.
fix your fuel leak. then if it still does it, keep diagnosing.
-Mike
-Mike
Going back to the thread, I need help asap.
I have the mechanic at my house now, and he fixed the fuel leakage issue. One of the O-rings was put in wrong, and it was leaking. However, the car still dies after a few seconds.
Here's what he observed: If the car cranks for a few seconds, then the starter will stay engaged and that is what is causing it to die. However, if it only cranks once or twice, the started will not stay on. Any ideas that he could look at while he is here?
I have the mechanic at my house now, and he fixed the fuel leakage issue. One of the O-rings was put in wrong, and it was leaking. However, the car still dies after a few seconds.
Here's what he observed: If the car cranks for a few seconds, then the starter will stay engaged and that is what is causing it to die. However, if it only cranks once or twice, the started will not stay on. Any ideas that he could look at while he is here?
the starter should not stay engaged... the engine starting to turn by itself will make the starter DISengage.
He figured out what the problem was. The ignition switch has gone bad.
OK, so the car wasn't really running? It was just being turned over by the starter...at 2000 rpms? huh?
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