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Talk to a auto painter with lots of experience. You need to understand the procedure is not as simple as the kid down the street will tell you.

If you have some ideas on supplying labor to keep the bill down you may have to shop around for a paint shop that will work with you. The issue of warranty will be the item of discussion.

Once you understand the dynamics on this work you might want to read up on how to save and protect your new finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Talk to a auto painter with lots of experience. You need to understand the procedure is not as simple as the kid down the street will tell you.

If you have some ideas on supplying labor to keep the bill down you may have to shop around for a paint shop that will work with you. The issue of warranty will be the item of discussion.

Once you understand the dynamics on this work you might want to read up on how to save and protect your new finish.
I thought spraying a clear coat would be much easier than spraying on a color coat
 

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As far as the SW20's go they all have clear coat. In the early 90's all car companies tried to skimp on UV protectant with undercoat and paint. Worked well for a few years and eventually started to fail. Some colours are worst than others (red, yellow, green & black) and some owners can avoid the UV deterioration with limiting exposure and use of modern protection wax.

Only way to fix problem is to strip off paint and re-spray base + clear with some decent materials. If you go for a cheap Macco job it will deteriorate in a couple years time.

jim
 

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^ Agreed, it's the only way to go. Those who take shortcuts will pay negatively for it in time.

As for the clear-coat, I know in the 90s for SW20s the solid colors like the reds, blacks, yellows, etc, had a 1 stage integrated clear-coat with the color. The metallics or pearls like SMG had a non-integrated clear-coat on top just like they do for most modern cars today.
 

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Should I get a new one sprayed on? Where should I go to have it done?

Dude,


A two-stage paint job, base color plus clear coat, cannot simply have a clear coat re-applied once the clear-coat has worn/chipped away. You have to respray the base color followed by the clear coat. What year MR2 do you have? What is the color? Do you know the paint code? It's possibly a single-stage since many of the 1980s colors on an MR2 are single-stage, not two-stage. It could also be a two-stage respray from several years ago and not the original factory paint.

Toyota MR2 Touchup Paint Codes, Image Galleries, Brochure and TV Commercial Archives




Good luck,

Chester
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dude,


A two-stage paint job, base color plus clear coat, cannot simply have a clear coat re-applied once the clear-coat has worn/chipped away. You have to respray the base color followed by the clear coat. What year MR2 do you have? What is the color? Do you know the paint code? It's possibly a single-stage since many of the 1980s colors on an MR2 are single-stage, not two-stage. It could also be a two-stage respray from several years ago and not the original factory paint.

Toyota MR2 Touchup Paint Codes, Image Galleries, Brochure and TV Commercial Archives




Good luck,

Chester
It's a white one from '93
 

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I've owned 3 original white MR2s and they definitely have single stage paint. Your job appears to be a respray as Chester pointed out.

No matter, just strip it down and get it done right.
 

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I've owned 3 original white MR2s and they definitely have single stage paint. Your job appears to be a respray as Chester pointed out.

No matter, just strip it down and get it done right.
I've done some more research and I think it is actually oxidation instead if the clear coat being worn away
 

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In that case, you just need to cut-polish/claybar and wax your paint. White cleans up really easy and very nicely too.
 

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Dude,


A two-stage paint job, base color plus clear coat, cannot simply have a clear coat re-applied once the clear-coat has worn/chipped away. You have to respray the base color followed by the clear coat.
This.

I had to cut back the sun damaged/failing clear coat on my SMG with 220 on a DA. Then feathered it out with 400 and it was good enough for respray if there's no other damages that you're trying to fix and you don't go down to bare metal.

If single stage, you can probably get away with just cut and polish since it's not actually clear coat that you are seeing damaged.
 

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I'm no body expert but deff notice the paint on mr2s tend to suck.
Anyway, while on the topic.

What is best recommended to protect factory paint?
I see alot of these clear films that can be wrapped or sprayed on to protect paint.

Is this stuff worth it?
Does it work?

Thanks!
 

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I'm no body expert but deff notice the paint on mr2s tend to suck...
Any paint will suffer three times as bad if the car is stored outdoors - older Toyotas could be worse though. When I had mine repainted 23 years after its original job, my paint guy noted that it was a shame to paint over it as it was still in top shape (I swapped colors). Keep it indoors, wash/wax it regularly w/ the rare cut-polish and these tough paint jobs last for decades.
 

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My body guy recommended not repainting unless it was necessary. "Toyota's got the toughest paint around!"
I'd tell your body guy to go back to school as paint is supplied through one of a couple companies, PPG, Dupont, etc. While they develop paint for specific applications it is more to do with the automated spray machines and dry time than quality of product. What the manufactures use on the floor is much the same as what you can buy off the self.

jim
 
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