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yeah getting frankenstein motor works and tcs parts will add like $2500 to the total, maybe another $1k if I don’t do the wiring myself. At most that will get me like 50-60hp which I don’t think is worth it, but if anything I’ll buy his $175 intake pipe if my fuel trims are off
You can monkey with the fuel pressure to fix fuel trims sort of. See how you do.
 

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this is an excerpt from the factory service manual diagnostics section.

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Number


forget about the misfire codes for now. The other two codes seem to come up frequently on 2gr swap first starts. It is likely they are caused by a fault in the wiring. "Check the wiring" is general advice but what I would check specifically is this: The engine harness has grounding terminals that are secured to the cylinder head and the valve covers in several points. These vary by what harness you use - meaning, the ground point terminals may be in slightly different locations depending on whether your harness came from a Rav4 or a Camry or a Sienna or what have you. There are maybe three of these ground points, one to the top of each valve cover and one or two to the side of the cylinder heads above the transmission. Make sure these are all secured properly and making clean contact. Also each head must be grounded to the chassis. The two ground wires should run from each cylinder head or valve cover to the chassis, somewhere near the strut tower. Check my video on "2GR-FE Ground Points." Moviing on to the specific codes these are both related to the intake side on the front bank. So this narrows down what you need to look for. The intake camshaft has one ocv and one camshaft position sensor. They are easy to identify because they are on the side of the valve cover closer to the valley between the heads. Unplug them, check the connectors, plug them back in. Also, you can swap the camshaft position sensors from different positions - they are all the same. If the code moves with the sensor, then you know it's the sensor. That's all for now. Good luck.
 

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K I have no idea how you did your wiring. One thing that has bothered me for a long time and if I cared enough I would do something about it is the SW20 chassis has just two fused EFI circuits and any 2GR vehicle has about 1 million. This is to your point of sharing power between circuits but more to the point is the potential of ending up with ground loops that lead to weird DTC's. At the time I did my swaps I didn't give it much thought but if I were doing it again, I would.
 

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well I unplugged the battery and replugged it to reset the ecu and no more codes... weird. anyways next issue is coolant, it drank like 4 gallons but for some reason the passenger frunk pipe stays cold and the heater doesnt blow hot. Minor things but I should be good
Again, common issue on these swaps. Use a vaccuum filler and/or use the bleeder port between the two cylinder heads on the engine mount side.
 
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