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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I will be doing a swap/project thread to keep track of everything done.

Here's the background info...

Car:
- 2001 MR2 Spyder, 41,000 miles.
- coilovers, sticky tires, etc....
- It is my primary (only) car, although we use my fiancee's Civic more often. I don't drive it much, since I live relatively "car-light." I ride my bike and take the train to work. I use the bike or walk for errands such as grocery shopping, etc much of the time. Since we have the Civic, and I don't drive much anyway, I have time to do this swap.

Previous power plant:
- Built 1zz (forged internals 9.0:1 c/r, big cams, DIY port and polish, etc etc)
- Rotrex supercharger and custom a2w intercooler
- 292 rwhp @ 7600 rpm see dyno --> http://carpron.com/multisite/d/194406-1/dyno_022008_2.jpg
- Dyno tuned Hydra Nemesis EMS
- C60 6-speed transaxle, fidanza lightweight FW, ACT clutch
- Fast, loud, fun, needs to be revved out for real power.

New V6 power plant:
- 2006 Rav4 V6 2GRFE with 40,000 miles
- Two Rav4 front exhaust manifolds
- Stock ECU (Rav4 unit)
- 97+ Camry 4-cyl S51 transaxle with Spyder driveshafts
- 1mz lightweight FW, 5sfe ACT disc, 3sgte ACT PP
- Current exhaust system 2.5" Borla dual exit, all SS, with a custom "Y-pipe."
- K&N Camry intake

Why swap?
- Refined smooth v6 power/torque
- Cool v6 sound
- Stock setup. Basically I have decided that I want something relatively stock, in regards to the power plant. It might be from another car, but it is running on the stock ECU, stock internals, etc. I basically still want a fast car, but something less extreme.
- Nice low end torque
- Naturally Aspirated.
- Not as crazy sounding, thus drawing less attention.
- Will be CA smog legal (eventually), once the Evora comes out, and I use their ECU. I will get it approved by the BAR.
- It's bigger... Lower specific output compared to the old setup will ultimately results in better long term reliability. The old setup is putting out over 190hp per liter. The V6 setup should be more-or-less as reliable as a Camry, minus the trans and axles. However I don't run massive R-compounds, and it is very seldom I hit up the local autoX or track day.

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
New vs. old... In the foreground is the old setup with trans. In the background is the new 2GRFE

Note: The old setup has been sold, complete with tuned EMS. The money from the sale is funding most of the V6 swap.



Old setup (reference shots)







 

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Discussion Starter #3
2GR with manifolds (old setup in the background):

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Note: The width of the 2GR (with alternator and manifolds) is roughly 1.5-2" wider than the old setup at their absolute widest points. However the 2GR is much bulkier.

Note: I took a rough measurement of the distance from the front most point of the engine to the axle center line for each setup. Both engines were nearly identical at around 20" The extra mass behind the axles, is of little concern compared to the front. So this is good!
 

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cages R slow
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i'll for sure be watching this project, and will prolly want to come over there and check it out in person if possible!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pictures of the car... somewhat old shots (You can see the a2w heat exchanger up front in the last 2 pics)





 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So I picked up my S51 transmission the other day, out of a 1997 Toyota Camry 5spd M/T 5sfe 4-cyl.

The trans was super dirty and ugly. This pissed me off, because now I would get dirty. I was used to my nice clean 2grfe. ;)

So for the trans-to-block bolting-up I had to:
- Tap one pre-existing hole in the block (M12x1.25)
- Drill out a pre-existing M10 hole to make it a larger M12 hole on the transmission
- Drill and tap a hole in the block
- Used an existing hole through one of the bottom "tabs" of the block into the trans (existing hole and threads)

I ended up with 4 bolts and 2 dowel pins. I think this is enough, due to their even spacing and the two dowel pins, but I would like one more. The pictures will show what the situation is.

The red arrows show the bolts I have in. 3 of the 4 are visible in the 1st pic, the 4th bolt is in the 2nd picture.

The yellow arrow shows another one I'd like to use, but I am affraid of the drilling the block there. I would shoot myself if I hit a coolant jacket or something :thumbdown I'm going to look at it more closely, and see if it will work out there.





More in the next post in just a sec...

PS - The Driver's side mount bracket shown is the stock Spyder bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The next issue was the clutch slave cylinder. The block was in the way, I needed to machine off a big ass chunk of the block (right where it used to say 2GR).

I ended up using my head porting bit, and my die grinder. It took a bit, but came out OK.



No Problemo!

 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Spyder axles fit perfectly.

I just need to make a simple adapter plate to attach the carrier to the block.





 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am going to work on the mounts as soon as I get Gouky's mount adapters in.

I already have a mk2 turbo passenger mount waiting :)

I am also going to modify the rear exhaust manifold a bit, so that it angles a bit closer to the block.. so that it sticks out about even with the alternator. This will help in making the engine fit big time.

More to come!
 

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looks good. you can pick up two more m10 bolts at the bottom #1 and 8 in this picture:



did the 2GR carrier bearing bracket not fit with the spyder axles?

and your engine mount bracket is on it's way already. :thumbup
 

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Excellent documentation...Thanks! Please take good pix of your crossmember mods too. Are you doing anything to stiffen the chassis, and what about a roll bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Gouky said:
looks good. you can pick up two more m10 bolts at the bottom #1 and 8 in this picture:



did the 2GR carrier bearing bracket not fit with the spyder axles?

and your engine mount bracket is on it's way already. :thumbup
#1 and #8 don't line up with the s51

The 2gr carrier has a diameter too small of the Spyder axles.
 

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cages R slow
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great pics and info!

keep up the good work!

having pics and a description of what you gotta mod and where will be SOOOOO HELPFUL when i go tackle this beast for my MK1
 

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Talk to Blitzo. He did this swap and needed solid motor mounts and to tilt the engine/tranny a good amount to make it all fit, and still had only mm's of clearance.

I'd be leary of the S series tranny if you're going to be autoxing the car. I busted one on my 1MZ and Blitzo has already torn up some Celica axles he's using with the 2GR and an E series. It might hold for a while, and it'd be fine for a street car, but race rubber and hard launches will hurt longevity.

Good luck!
 
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