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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
M10 or 3/8”. Both will work. Stainless is recommended here for track usage. The zinc coated ones won’t last long at those temperatures
Thanks for the update! M10 it is!


I only used the zinc coated type and they seem to be fine. I haven't removed in a couple years now so maybe they are frozen shut which helps with keeping it tight, I guess?
Right on! I guess we will see!


I love when builds get used and abused!! These things were meant to enjoy them.

Would you happen to have any more pics of the top coolant hose installed? I want to delete that coolant pipe off the firewall
Haha thanks! Are you talking about hose 4?

Which hose would you like to see?

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Mode of transport
 

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Hey, I was wondering what body kit you have on your car. I'm new to the scene and I've seen these everywhere but I can't find what they are called! Also I'm planning on painting my car soon and I noticed you painted underneath your wing. Would you recommend I do the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
#7, the one that deletes 3, 5, & the pipe against the firewall please
Sure, here you go, I already deleted 3 and 5, just remove them.

Just run 7 down, plug and play.



Hey, I was wondering what body kit you have on your car. I'm new to the scene and I've seen these everywhere but I can't find what they are called! Also I'm planning on painting my car soon and I noticed you painted underneath your wing. Would you recommend I do the same?
Check PRIME MR2 - We are the Toyota MR2 Parts / Celica Parts Authority
 

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I only used the zinc coated type and they seem to be fine. I haven't removed in a couple years now so maybe they are frozen shut which helps with keeping it tight, I guess?
Not only do turbine inlet temperatures get way over the temperature where zinc coating will fail, but the mild steel also has a really steep drop off of yield strength at about 600-800 F. At the ~1200+F you'll see at the bolts when pushing the car hard at the track, they will yield out and compromise the locking.

They'll probably work fine on the street.

The above is why OEMs will do zinc/mild steel fasteners on head to turbo manifold (head is drawing a ton of heat out of everything, keeping temperatures low), the turbine inlet hardware will typically be some form of high temperature stainless or nickel superalloy. I know Nissan uses a variant of rolled Inconel in their turbine studs and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Not only do turbine inlet temperatures get way over the temperature where zinc coating will fail, but the mild steel also has a really steep drop off of yield strength at about 600-800 F. At the ~1200+F you'll see at the bolts when pushing the car hard at the track, they will yield out and compromise the locking.

They'll probably work fine on the street.

The above is why OEMs will do zinc/mild steel fasteners on head to turbo manifold (head is drawing a ton of heat out of everything, keeping temperatures low), the turbine inlet hardware will typically be some form of high temperature stainless or nickel superalloy. I know Nissan uses a variant of rolled Inconel in their turbine studs and nuts.
interesting! will these work?

I might order a set

Rexka Exhaust Spin Lock Nuts W/Serrations M10-1.25 Compatible with Toyota Honda 90212-SA5-003 Accord Civic (Pack of 30) https://a.co/d/eKEi8mG
 

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interesting! will these work?

I might order a set

Rexka Exhaust Spin Lock Nuts W/Serrations M10-1.25 Compatible with Toyota Honda 90212-SA5-003 Accord Civic (Pack of 30) https://a.co/d/eKEi8mG
Definitely will not work. Mild steel, serrated flange is not a good locking feature.

If you want nice nuts: ARP 400-8364 Nut Kit (M10 X 1.25 SS M12 socket 12pt nut) Amazon.com: ARP 400-8364 Nut Kit (M10 X 1.25 SS M12 socket 12pt nut) : Automotive

Nord lock:Wedge Locking Washer 254 SMO Stainless Steel M10 10 glued Pairs/Pack Amazon.com: Wedge Locking Washer 254 SMO Stainless Steel M10 10 glued Pairs/Pack : Industrial & Scientific

Or buy this kit and don’t use the studs if they won’t fit. I’ve used this on dozens of turbo installs, never seen it come loose.

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Definitely will not work. Mild steel, serrated flange is not a good locking feature.

If you want nice nuts: ARP 400-8364 Nut Kit (M10 X 1.25 SS M12 socket 12pt nut) Amazon.com: ARP 400-8364 Nut Kit (M10 X 1.25 SS M12 socket 12pt nut) : Automotive

Nord lock:Wedge Locking Washer 254 SMO Stainless Steel M10 10 glued Pairs/Pack Amazon.com: Wedge Locking Washer 254 SMO Stainless Steel M10 10 glued Pairs/Pack : Industrial & Scientific

Or buy this kit and don’t use the studs if they won’t fit. I’ve used this on dozens of turbo installs, never seen it come loose.

Wooo!!! good selections!

Okay I ordered the Nord Lock

Thanks again! you saved me!
 

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Will do! i'll add those to cart now!



Thanks for the comments!

Nice! you should pick up a MR2 again!

After fiddling around with my M3 for so many years, I think I'm done for a while with that car, let it rest.
Ya you get to a point… I have 2 Porsche’s now and the price of a new motor is frightening… obviously stellar cars… MR2‘s we’re so easy.. anyone seen mine around??
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update

Finally got all the gaskets replaced, hoses, brake flush and clutch flush.

No more leaks! feels like I got more power :eek:

We good to go!





Did a night race with my buddies!

It was scary AF

You cannot see 10 feet in front of you!

 
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