MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

MK2 Carbing 7pt roll cage?

4K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  goddom 
#1 · (Edited)
#8 · (Edited)
My car is a hardtop. And its flush against the roof line.
I'm not sure but I don't think it would matter, ttops or hardtop.

As far as the rules go, I read those and it looks like this will be fine.
Except; I have to get the "door bars" add on kit. Its mandatory this year.
Add a bar going diagonally inside the main hoop, and a bar from left to right.
And I'm going to have to get a lower sitting seat. (had to get a legal one anyway)
I'm 6'4". Theres not even 2" of clearance between my helmet and the roof, let alone the main hoop. lol

The new rules are definitely more strict.
You can not buy this cage over here. You will not find it!
Its a starting point.

I have the cage now. I'll take some pics soon.


Brendan
 
#9 · (Edited)
the cage in my '94 is a kit - I would recommend a custom setup done by a reputable cage shop local to you instead unless you're shorter than about 5'8" or so

Head room is scarce in these cars, the kits fit alright but you will need that last inch of clearance if you're on the taller side and the only way to get that is by having one made specifically for you

Bill - the TT rules are useless for showing someone NASA's cage rules (esp since they're not mandatory) - I would link them to the CCRs instead, as all classes that require cages refer you to the CCRs for the standards

they're available here:
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf

the racing section that outlines all the required equipment starts on page 55 (or p 68 if you use the pdf file's numbering)
 
#12 ·
Turbomits95 said:
The main hoop almost touches the roof. I dont think I could get it any closer.


You wont be able to find one man. Unless, you mean you want to buy it from me?
thats pretty good if you've got the headliner out, etc...

how is the bar that runs over the window opening - thats the one thats tough to get right :)
 
#13 ·
Ok, I just read that I need two drivers side door bars and one passenger.

As far as the bar over the window, it sits high. You cant see it from outside the car.
I hope I can find a seat that sits very low, and is very thin.

I may have to sell this cage and have one made...
 
#14 ·
I had to get 2 door bars added to my '94s cage, its not that expensive (figure ~$150 per) to have done but you will need to find a good roll cage shop near you.
 
#18 ·
have one built for you to meet or exceed the rules you are racing with. Hill climbs have big trees everywhere, or they can. I personally would build a 1.75" x .120 wall cage for time trials. Yes it is heavier, but it will protect you much better than a thin wall smaller tube cage. Trees hurt. Plus you are probably not doing this for a living, so the time you save with a lighter cage is not really worth not being able to show up for work on Monday morning.

Also be aware that if you wreck, you need to be able to get out of the car. Sometimes fast if it is on fire.

At VIR this past summer I was a co-driver in a MK2 MR2 race car. It has a Autopower cage installed. It was very hard for me to get in and nearly impossible to get out fast.
I lost the right front brake caliper on the front stretch at 110 mph. When I finally got the car stopped I could not get out quick. That really sucked because I am so careful about safety when it comes to my cars. I am 5' 11" tall and 225 pounds.
Building a cage where the front legs extend into the dash and closer to the A-piller would have helped a bunch in letting me get my legs around the cage and to get out. If for some reason I could not get the door open I would have been screwed.

And having a Head & Neck device on will also complicate extraction of your body in a hurry if you can't get around the bars.

Street bars are not normally built to the standards of a bar designed to withstand a crash at 150 mph.
 
#20 ·
MkII_5SFE said:
ORLY!?
gee, thanks Bill
you were directing me, and others, to autopower, yet you had a bad experience with them
on top of that, im 6'1" 220 lbs
sooo
im better off with my original idea for a full cage
If your original idea was to have a custom cage fabricated, then yes. What Bill was trying to say about the Autopower is that it fits and meets all of the regs for racing organizations. The one in our Lemons car needs to be tweaked, but after I move some of the braces (which can be done without going to great lengths, adding tubes or welding), it should be much easier for Bill to get his fat ass out of the car. His problems were also made worse by our seat, which will be changed before the first race also.

The simplest solution is to buy an Autopower bolt in. The best is to get a custom cage made locally by a fab shop.
 
#21 ·
The carbing cage is classified as "street". However it is fully functional. Dash Sports sold a heavy duty model of the same cage and that was also made by Carbing or Okuyama Japan. I have no idea type size tubing they are made fromm. These cages are expensive at around $1500. After you add the side bars and other needed bars you will probably pay more than a custom cage and it probably won't fit as well.
 
#22 ·
David Hawkins said:
If your original idea was to have a custom cage fabricated, then yes. What Bill was trying to say about the Autopower is that it fits and meets all of the regs for racing organizations. The one in our Lemons car needs to be tweaked, but after I move some of the braces (which can be done without going to great lengths, adding tubes or welding), it should be much easier for Bill to get his fat ass out of the car. His problems were also made worse by our seat, which will be changed before the first race also.

The simplest solution is to buy an Autopower bolt in. The best is to get a custom cage made locally by a fab shop.

oh my god, that is priceless
 
#24 ·
get this from zerolift? Robert asked me about it quite a few months ago....
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top