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I actually like racing against the misguided?
They spend there valuable time working on things that are not broken.
With out any real data to direct the process.

They are easy to pass on trac. If they make it to the track?

Seldom finish an event.

And hey, we all need field fillers to make our wins appear more impressive !

One day I was asked " how do you win so often? ".
My answer " over time you learn what not to do".


I know I can be an _____. But brazing aluminum to steel?

I call BS.

You would have a better time with a hot glue gun.

If you think that's how it's done?
Your a lap down. Before your leave the house!
What would I know. Just been doing welding, fabrication and mechanical design most of my professional career.
:rolleyes:

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?39614-Can-you-weld-aluminum-to-steel

Not saying it would be best or practical. Like I said it was more an exercise in creativity that let me to more practical potential solutions.
 

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Fact joining non- ferrous to ferrous metal. Is done with rivets, bolts and mechanical fasteners.
On cars that actually make enough laps to finish an event (With all the parts it started with).
I ask one thing. As the junk starts falling off you racer. Please pull well of the track. So your glued on scrap does not affect anyone else’s race.
Thanks


:thumbup
 

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With 9 runnoffs national championship .
Along with countless silver and bronze medals,to go with the golds.
I feel I have a clue

But I normally find those that need to brag.
Don't actually make it to the track!
Well you win the gold for most ironic post evar.
I wouldn't try to compete against your skill behind the wheel but I fail to see how that qualifies you for knowing about welding, brazing and metal fabrication.
Yes the above thread starts with someone asking if you can weld aluminum to steel but goes on to talk about the much more common and realistic method of brazing steel to aluminum.
 

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Didn't AJ say the Chinese source would make the OEM parts with a minimum 500 order. Just find the money and place the order. You could become the "Sole Source" for the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
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Just trying to help
But some cannot be helped.
But easy to pass!
Everyone else good luck with hubs
OOOOOKAAAYYYY...... Next topic?

:grouphug:
 

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Didn't AJ say the Chinese source would make the OEM parts with a minimum 500 order. Just find the money and place the order. You could become the "Sole Source" for the world.
Lol a. I would need at least enough pre orders to pay for the order. I am not going to spend $15k on making parts that will likely take the rest of my professional career to pay for it's self.
b. I would much rather find a local company that could do smaller orders.
I am not someone strictly adamant about things being made in USA but I Hate seeing money being shipped elsewhere and products being shipped back. Plus it's much harder to maintain quality control and communication.
This route may add 20% or even more to the cost but IMO it would be worth it.

If someone wanted to get me a front hub I would be into drawing it up in CAD and at least doing a little research to see what's out there.
Like I said earlier, I am currently working with the driveshaft shop to see if there are any other easy rear hub options available or easily makeable/modifyable so it would be easy enough to look into this a little if there was the demand or even a single person seriously interested in options.
 

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I got the impression AJ's Chinese source was for OEM parts
OEM would mean they were made by the same company that made the original parts based off the original design and specifications. Toyota has strict contracts with companies that don't allow this to happen and I know from personal experience that they don't give two $#!!$ if the part is no longer available. They will not release that part or it's design to any outside source.
Which brings up an interesting point on where the line is drawn as far as the rulebook sees things. If you go buy a hub at Napa it is aftermarket. It is a copy of an original part attempting to meet the original design criteria as well as possible. Most often defaulting to the cheaper lower quality side of things more often than not. So if those parts were to be accepted by a ruling sanction then a high quality part designed to meet the orginal criteria and if anything err to the stronger, better and more expensive side of things should be as well.
I expect those crappy aftermarket parts are probably required to go through some extensive testing and certification before being sold though and that's where things would get expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I would much rather find a local company that could do smaller orders.
I am currently working with the driveshaft shop to see if there are any other easy rear hub options available or easily makeable/modifyable so it would be easy enough to look into this a little if there was the demand or even a single person seriously interested in options.
I'd be interested in an "aftermarket" hub as long as it was the same or a bit more robust than OEM but WITHOUT the 2 large access holes, and of course would be acceptable to the appropriate SCCA committee. You engineer types and metalugists can debate the best materials and construction. Oh yeah, and didn't cost $300 each. We're not talking about the whole knuckle assembly, just the little hub and lug hat with standard lug studs. The Chinese connection was not worth pursuing to me.
This topic has pages and pages of debate and info. My fear is that the wonderful MR2 will slowly fade from competition as these 25+ year old parts become extinct.
What to do about it? Start our own class and use modified parts? Been there, done that. It was a dead end. Go vintage racing? Tempting, but those guys travel all over the country and have the time and money to do so. Go race a Pinata?
From my cold dead hands...

:dontknow:
 

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You don't have a front hub you could send me would you? Could be cracked, broken or otherwise as long as I can take dimensions off it.
I'd be happy to pursue the fabrication end of it. As for the SCCA approved end that would have to be up to you or others with the right motivation and connections. If you want to look into it and see if there are any ways to make it legit without super expensive or time consuming inspections or certifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
You don't have a front hub you could send me would you? Could be cracked, broken or otherwise as long as I can take dimensions off it.
Believe it or not, I do have one intact which I had extracted from a spare knuckle for just this purpose. It's worth pursuing. Send me a PM with you email address and I'll send you a photo. We can exchange other info offline for now.
 

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I just found out there are alot of MK1 MR2's in a junk yard close by. Would you guys want me to grab them for you? or are old hubs that are probably rusted and street use not going to hold up?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I just found out there are alot of MK1 MR2's in a junk yard close by. Would you guys want me to grab them for you? or are old hubs that are probably rusted and street use not going to hold up?
That, my friend, is precisely the question! I'm sending the one I have to our CO friend tomorrow or early next week. We'll see how that goes and go from there.

See youse on Fr and Daytona!

:thumbup
 

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I still maintain that a proper 'copy' of an OEM hub would be completely acceptable, even if it were made stronger/thicker/etc...

I don't want to detract from folks running in IT, but come on now, this is IT. Honor among thieves. This isn't something that is going to provide you with 1 ounce of a performance advantage. It's not like these hubs are suddenly going to vault the MKI into an untouchable ITB car overnight. You might even be gaining a little unsprung weight. If anything, it's safer and just leave it at that.

No one is going to question you on what hubs you're running unless you go running around telling everyone. I also maintain that if you are allowed to use longer and stronger wheel studs (ARP) then why stop there? The whole point is to keep from losing a wheel.

Sorry, this seems like a silly thing to get petty with the rule book about. I know the rules are there for a reason, but sometimes, things are better left unsaid.

Since seeing this thread, I've repeatedly inspected the hubs on my EP car and have yet to find a crack.
 

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When someone has a drawing with the MKI hub axle dimensions/specs, get a copy to me. If my source of one-off machining work is as "slow" as he said he was going to be this spring, maybe they will do a limited run for minimum $
 

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I still maintain that a proper 'copy' of an OEM hub would be completely acceptable, even if it were made stronger/thicker/etc...

I don't want to detract from folks running in IT, but come on now, this is IT. Honor among thieves. This isn't something that is going to provide you with 1 ounce of a performance advantage. It's not like these hubs are suddenly going to vault the MKI into an untouchable ITB car overnight. You might even be gaining a little unsprung weight. If anything, it's safer and just leave it at that.
more importantly, without an OEM part, in the box, there's no comparison to stock to be made, and an SCCA protest will crumple like tissue paper. get it close and call it done.
 
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