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Just be carful with cutting those tubes.. They are your support system.. No bull ____ welding things back!!! Now with all said and done.. I have to ask.. What motivated you to go this route? are there plans for more WHP? was it a free engine or super low cost? the reason I ask is because you will still be on or below 400WHP once all is done and around 300 ish torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I love v8s. I've been a Subaru guy for years and as awesome as an EJ sounds (with UEL headers), there is nothing quite like the soundtrack of a cammed/headered LS IMHO. Something snapped in me a few years ago when I came across a LS swapped Miata at a Houston meetup (coffee and cars)... I wanted to build something like that or better... and we know what's better than a Miata. No big deal if you disagree... In general, I'm kind of luke warm on 2GRs and wanted to try something different.

This build is a 400/400 build... but all of my parts (mounts/uni-mods) are being designed for 600 ft-lb loads... I intend to build one of these cars with either a blower or turbo but until I get the template sorted out for the platform, keeping the costs low in the engine.

That said, There will not be any corners cut on the unibody modification. I'll put all of the strength back and then some. And I'm intending to do this in a way that is repeatable (should anyone choose to follow in my footsteps).

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
And yes, my drive train costs are very low:

1300 for the LS4. 20k mile pullout.
650 for the F40. 29k mile pullout.
-or- MR2 E153 LSD for 400. 65k JDM pullout.

I've got another 1700 in the engine at this point... but I'd say that's a cheap 400hp.

What do you think of those costs? Less than a 2GR right?
 

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so 3600 so far.. and you still need to wire it.. custom harness might cost you 600 ish.. so lets say 4200 for 400 whp.. wait.. and another 500 -700 for a custom axle setup another 100-200 in shifter cable mods and lets say another 200 in misc materials .. you are looking at aprox 5100-5300 total for the swap.. not to mention your time.. So dollar to dollar who gives a ____ if its what you want!!!

if you were to pay a company to swap a running Gen 4 gte in your car your looking at 5k just to start and you wont be getting 400/400 out of it for sure its more like 250whp/270tq. so power to cash.. I think you are still coming out on top if you can pull it off! I say go for it.. Push thru..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
F40 finally came yesterday! This afternoon I'll get some side by side measurements and start making my transfer template.




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Discussion Starter #27
Ok. Drivetrain is now 2.5" shorter and appears to be doable. Looks like I need to hammer out the crank side about 1" (some slit, press, weld action). And pass side may need to have its transverse motor mount rethought/relocated.





And here's my cardboard template. Profile at the frame rail, engine rotated approx 10 degrees top rearward.




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Discussion Starter #29
I see the TB is drive by wire.. are you going to use the aem infinity :)
The plan at this point is to run dual ECUs... and cobble together the wiring so that both the gauges and the engine can be happy... it's not too well thought through, but I believe I can make this work.

Is there a cleaner way that you know of?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Did some work today... A bit of slicing and dicing to make room for the crank pulley.





I'll finish cutting tonight and start bending the body back.

A friend from work has volunteered to weld (he happens to be our shop lead welder).


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I need about a half inch clearance in that same area and was going to take the heat and sledge approach.. lol..
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So... I considered the same but don't like the idea of normalizing the steel down to "hot work" it. Cold working should leave me with more strength. The downside of my approach is that I end up having to weld (and I don't mind having a weld down the length of stress, rather than across it). Make sense?

I've started thinking through the motor mounts a bit more and here's what I've got:

Under forward header, I'm going to make a bolted adapter to the lower unibody mount in the middle of the firewall.

Transverse mount will be a water cut plate (1/2" or so) attached to the F40 transmission's passenger side output housing tying down to the crossmember. Will use F-body style mount but rotated so that it can take load left-right and up-down. This will allow me to remove the unibody's transverse mount "tower" from the drivers side of the engine bay and push out the uni-tube to make room for the transmission cutouts (similar to the pass side).

Final mount will be to tie the rearward head on the passenger side into either the crossmember or the strut tower (depending on height when mounted... I'll play that one by ear).
 

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I don't mind having a weld down the length of stress, rather than across it). Make sense?
Hmm... that's backwards of what is considered proper design practice as welds are not as strong in shear as they are in tension/compression. You worried about your welds?

O
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hmm... that's backwards of what is considered proper design practice as welds are not as strong in shear as they are in tension/compression. You worried about your welds?

O
If it's on the extreme "fiber" of the material I'd agree. In this application we're nearer to the neutral of the tubes.

So since it's become apparent that the LS4/F40 setup will fit, I got a little distracted with finishing out my motor. LME here in Houston is running a port job on my heads. I'm working to get my starter/intermediate bearing and shift cables planned out and I'm trying to decide if I want to pony up the cash for an LSD.

I apologize for the pace of this build... 3 kids, busy job, smokin' hot wife... I haven't been working on it as frequently as I'd thought I could.
 

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see now you have to show pics of the wife.. we are no longer interested in the car after a comment like that.. lololol
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So I've been very busy over the past weeks.

Tore down the LS4 and sent the heads off to be milled and ported.

One funny surprise came when I had to back off the crank bolt and realized that I had no way to back up the torque at the flex plate. So here's what I came up with. 4 lag screws + long 2x4 + me standing on the crank bolt =


That got it.

Pics of the motor prior to clean up.







Hard to tell but the bores are pristine. Some soot on the piston heads but nothing I'm worried about.


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Discussion Starter #39
I've also begun to get the accessory drive, flywheel and starter all worked out. Only real wildcard is that I'm planning to use West Coast Fiero's reverse alternator mount kit (http://www.westcoastfiero.com/engine_conversions/ls4/LS4_alternator_bracket_isntalled.html)
I'm also planning to use their starter mounting bracket, which means I'll be notching the trans housing.

In general, I'm trying to get the motor cleaned up and rebuilt so that it's as big as it's going to be for finalizing the unibody cuts and motor mounting. I know it seems like I started that up and dropped it, but I know it will fit and want to get the LS4 stuff over and done.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
A pic of the carnage to hold Easy over. (And I actually need to dig a little more rearward than that... )




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