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Discussion Starter #1
Plan on using prolightz.com as they have $10 shipping to Canada and good Canadian prices. I plan on getting the morimoto d2s kit Bi-Xenon Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 Projector Package,
O lens for shroud capability.
Osram xenarc 66240's.
Motorcontrol bi-xenon 9007/9004 harness? Looking for hi/lo.
Iris shrouds,
35watt ballast.
The PO installed crappy HID's in like a clear housing that I plan on using.

Can anyone confirm that this will work? I'm aware that I'll have to cut up the rear housing for the thing to fit. Should I get FXR's? Will it make a harder install? I noticed that when searching through the forums a few years ago that nobody really figured out hi/lo's. Is that a problem anymore? Anything additional I'm gonna need besides the sealant and JB weld solution/aluminum tape? Thanks!
 

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1994 SMG N/A
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3,159 Posts
I'd suggest joining https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum to look up what some people did on their retrofits; especially the sealed 7x6 retrofits.

I'm not sure why but the Mini D2S kit is more expensive than the FX-R kit. I would definitely get the FX-R kit. I've had the Mini H1 and D2S and did not like them much at all. I'm currently using the FX-R's in one of my cars and my brother-in-law has my RX-350's in his vehicle. They're all roughly the same size but the FX-R will not require a shroud as it is completely sealed. I'm hoping you haven't pulled the trigger yet, haha.

Also, you may want to think about how you'll mount the projectors. If using JB Weld, it will be a pretty permanent solution and if you need to fix or adjust the rotational aiming, things can get difficult trying to undo the JB Weld. I used corner braces with holes pre-drilled in them with nuts and bolts bought at my local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot here) with a dab of Loctite. Using this method, there is no requirement to mount the projector and take rotational aim into account since I mounted the projectors to the housing with the corner brace. You would only have to worry about mounting depth (as close to the glass as possible) and left/right aim. The install will be the same but you may have to cut away at a portion of the black fiberglass bucket underneath the headlight cover. I'm not sure about the Morimoto H4 motocontrol harness as mine was an older design and didn't work correctly when I flashed my high beams (lowbeams would go off when I pull the stalk and then the high beams would come on after the second pull). Maybe they fixed this issue but I didn't mind as I hardly used it. If you go down to the second review, it seems a guy confirms that his harness works correctly: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-h4-motocontrol-bi-xenon-wire-harness.html#.Vr_ms_krKUk .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd suggest joining https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum to look up what some people did on their retrofits; especially the sealed 7x6 retrofits.

I'm not sure why but the Mini D2S kit is more expensive than the FX-R kit. I would definitely get the FX-R kit. I've had the Mini H1 and D2S and did not like them much at all. I'm currently using the FX-R's in one of my cars and my brother-in-law has my RX-350's in his vehicle. They're all roughly the same size but the FX-R will not require a shroud as it is completely sealed. I'm hoping you haven't pulled the trigger yet, haha.

Also, you may want to think about how you'll mount the projectors. If using JB Weld, it will be a pretty permanent solution and if you need to fix or adjust the rotational aiming, things can get difficult trying to undo the JB Weld. I used corner braces with holes pre-drilled in them with nuts and bolts bought at my local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot here) with a dab of Loctite. Using this method, there is no requirement to mount the projector and take rotational aim into account since I mounted the projectors to the housing with the corner brace. You would only have to worry about mounting depth (as close to the glass as possible) and left/right aim. The install will be the same but you may have to cut away at a portion of the black fiberglass bucket underneath the headlight cover. I'm not sure about the Morimoto H4 motocontrol harness as mine was an older design and didn't work correctly when I flashed my high beams (lowbeams would go off when I pull the stalk and then the high beams would come on after the second pull). Maybe they fixed this issue but I didn't mind as I hardly used it. If you go down to the second review, it seems a guy confirms that his harness works correctly: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-h4-motocontrol-bi-xenon-wire-harness.html#.Vr_ms_krKUk .
Hey thanks for the response! Currently leaning towards a set of LED's now to be honest. They seem like a lot less of a headache and they should perform pretty similar. The ones I'm looking at, united pacific 31297's provide 3000 lumens and that should be plenty. Also my car is stiff as hell and bounces around everywhere down the road and I don't know how I'd like that HID cutoff. Thoughts?
 

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1994 SMG N/A
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3,159 Posts
LED would probably be the easiest way about it to get good lighting. I still don't prefer the color of them from what I've seen on the roads and in pictures; I prefer a slightly more yellow/white color from around 4,000K up to 5,000K. Once you hit ~5,500K the color starts to shift to blue and I'm not a big fan of that. As far as a bouncy car, I had the RX-350 setup in my MR2 for several months with no issues at all and the FX-R setup has been in my E36 with Bilstein B6 shocks (firm ride) for two or three years with no issues with the projectors loosening up. It's really all in how you mount it. Once you make the switch over to LED or HID, the cutoff will be much more pronounced than in a halogen setup. You'll easily be able to see your cutoff move up and down as you hit dips, bumps, potholes, go up hills and down them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
LED would probably be the easiest way about it to get good lighting. I still don't prefer the color of them from what I've seen on the roads and in pictures; I prefer a slightly more yellow/white color from around 4,000K up to 5,000K. Once you hit ~5,500K the color starts to shift to blue and I'm not a big fan of that. As far as a bouncy car, I had the RX-350 setup in my MR2 for several months with no issues at all and the FX-R setup has been in my E36 with Bilstein B6 shocks (firm ride) for two or three years with no issues with the projectors loosening up. It's really all in how you mount it. Once you make the switch over to LED or HID, the cutoff will be much more pronounced than in a halogen setup. You'll easily be able to see your cutoff move up and down as you hit dips, bumps, potholes, go up hills and down them.
Yeah I am not a fan of the color either, I'd rather be in the 4000k range. My dad has LED's on his SRT Grand Cherokee though and I love them. I bought united pacific 7x6's, should be 3000 lumens each. Should be plenty powerful.
 

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1994 SMG N/A
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3000 lumens is around the same range as good HID bulbs so you should be good there. I just hope the color behaves nicely when it snows up there. Post some shots if you can! I was looking to do an LED 4x6 low-rise setup but no one makes a combo (hi/lo) setup in that size.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
3000 lumens is around the same range as good HID bulbs so you should be good there. I just hope the color behaves nicely when it snows up there. Post some shots if you can! I was looking to do an LED 4x6 low-rise setup but no one makes a combo (hi/lo) setup in that size.
Yeah thanks for the help! I'll be sure to get some shots once they're all set up and I get some use out of them.
 
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