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Discussion Starter #1
If you're curious about what I'm talking about, check out hightempsilicone's website -

http://www.hightempsilicone.com/category/stainlessctclamps/

I'm about to upgrade my Greddy IC piping couplers and reducers to silicone, and it appears to me that there's no reason not to save a couple bucks per clamp by using liner clamps. The liners will still prevent the clamps from damaging the silicone, right? Plus, they look better IMO without a nasty bolt sticking off of it.

I've never had any problems with couplings blowing off with just cheesy worm drive clamps, possibly because I never run more than about 19 psi. So clamping force isn't my main concern.

Also, I don't understand how the spring-loaded design of the constant torque clamps would help keep them from popping off at high boost. Can anyone explain this in layman's terms?

TIA for your experience and input.
 

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ive been using t-bolts for about 1 1/2 yrs on my swap celica with a front mount. never had any issues with them at all. you can really torque the crap out of them if you need to and they create a nice seal.
 

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HTS doesnt carry all the transitions needed for your application.
People like T-bolts because they look better. Thats about it. The strength is virtually the same as a Constant torque clamp. IMO CT's are better because you can torque them down till it's really tight because it is a regular worm gear design. I hate T-bolts because A:They take forever and a day to put on and off. B: You never know when to stop, you can keep torquing them until they bottom out and Crushing your pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pred said:
HTS doesnt carry all the transitions needed for your application.
Are you sure? According to my measurements, I just need -

2" to 2.25 ID" transition x 1 - from the OEM crossover pipe to the beginning of the Greddy IC piping)

2.25" ID 3" long coupling x 4 - for the Greddy elbows and piping & to the IC itself

2.25" to 2.5 ID" transition x 1 - from the end of the Greddy IC piping to the TB inlet

HTS.com has all of these sizes/applications listed on their website. I'm getting the 4.25" long, 2" ID inlet/outlet section from my TD06 turbo to the OEM crossover pipe elsewhere.

Thanks to everyone for their input so far!
 

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Your measurements are completly wrong.
Greddy pipes are 60MM = 2 3/8"

you need
1x 2 to 2.38 transition
4x 2.38 coupler
1x 2.38 to 2.5 transition
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pred said:
Your measurements are completly wrong.
Greddy pipes are 60MM = 2 3/8"

you need
1x 2 to 2.38 transition
4x 2.38 coupler
1x 2.38 to 2.5 transition
And you're positive a 2.25" ID silicone coupler won't stretch another 2.8 mm to 2 3/8", esp. with a little soapy water? If I had one, I'd try it, but I don't.
 

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You can get T-bolt clamps from local auto-parts stores for about $2.50 a piece.

Something more important then any of this is the piping layout. Design the pipes so that motor torque doesn't try and seperate joints and you shouldn't have a problem with any clamp.

I hate any form of worm drive clamp. T-bolts for me...
 

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I use the constant torque clamps from McMaster that Jeykl linked above. I've had regular sleeved clamps, t-bolt clamps, and finally, the CT ones. The CT ones are by far the best. The Freightliner turbo diesel trucks run them at up to 50PSI of boost.

Your IC pipes expand when heated, expanding regular, or t-bolt clamps. When the pipes cool off, and contract, the clamps stay expanded. The constant torque ones will contract, along with the piping, and not lose their grip. The only thing I've seen that can work better is a Wiggins clamp, as NoShoes mentioned, but those are insanely expensive, both to purchase, and then to install, and unnecessary in most applications.

Another nice thing about the CT clamps is that they fit a range of diameters, so "one size fits all" with either a Spearco or Greddy IC.

My .02c

Ken
 

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The clamp expands with temperature, as does the pipe. Not to mention the clamp can stretch elastically during normal operation anyway.

I'm not saying the T-bolts are better, as I have yet to use a CT clamp. I just don't like anything that is worm drive based. There also appears to be two different CT type clamps anyway. There is one design that is basically a T-bolt clamp with a spring on it. Then there is a worm drive style with a spring system. I'd give the T-bolt style CT ones a try, but I absolutely loath any clamp that is based on a worm drive engagement.

If you bead the pipe, normal T-bolts will not crush the pipe, well, unless you get WAY too tight, then maybe. They will crush an unbeaded aluminum pipe though.
 

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99_GS-T said:
I just don't like anything that is worm drive based. I'd give the T-bolt style CT ones a try, but I absolutely loath any clamp that is based on a worm drive engagement.
Way to let personal preference get in the way of what works best.

I've recommended the worm drive CT's to several people who were having boost leak issues, or hoses blowing off, and they solved the problem in every single case. The T-bolt clamps were more hit or miss on whether they solved the problem. They are also more of a PITA, because they don't have much range of adjustment, so you end up needing several different sizes of T-bolt, where the worm drive ones are basically "one size fits all" if your IC pipes are between 2.25" and 2.75", like most of us.

Here's a picture of the CT clamps installed in Deuce Coupe's engine bay. I ran up to 21PSI without incident or leak with these clamps installed:



Ken
 

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I started using them on Ken's referal and they have held up to 28 psi for me :headbang:

More importantly than the 28 psi, I am using 20 clamps
(actualy there is more, but only 20 are under pressure) for my TMIC.
The typical MR2 IC set up only uses 14, so I have an extra 6 chances to be blowing off hoses.

 

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Ha, I guess if my personal experience of worm drives having a tendancy to fall apart over time when used with high amounts of torque is getting in the way of getting factual information out, then I guess you're right...

I just didn't say why I personally don't like them. My experience with non-CT high quailty worm drives has been that the groves wear out after repeated use and they end up turning into garbage.

99_GS-T <- T-bolts and 34 PSI of boost...

If you're blowing off charge pipes, my only suggestion is to learn how to lay out the piping to avoid putting stress on the couplers when the engine moves around. :rolleyes:
 

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99_GS-T said:
Ha, I guess if my personal experience of worm drives having a tendancy to fall apart over time when used with high amounts of torque is getting in the way of getting factual information out, then I guess you're right...
Yes, it is getting in the way of factual information as you, by your own words,
have never used the product we are talking about:

99_GS-T said:
... as I have yet to use a CT clamp...

99_GS-T said:
My experience with non-CT high quailty worm drives has been that the groves wear out after repeated use and they end up turning into garbage.
Has anyone (besides you) even remotely mentioned non-CT worm drives?! :dontknow:
... if not, why bring them up?

We're comparing Apples and Raisins and you are saying
Raisins suck be cause you have tried Grapes before.
Take your sour grapes elsewhere :p

99_GS-T said:
If you're blowing off charge pipes, my only suggestion is to learn how to lay out the piping to avoid putting stress on the couplers when the engine moves around.
If you look at the video of my T-bolt leaking, you might note that it wa sthe clamp on the THROTTLE BODY - the one that was least likely to move with the engine :rolleyes: It was opening up from pressure.

The Turbonetics T-bolts I had put NO pressure in between the posts of the clamps and they easily raised up to allow air escape. We saw evidence of this at several junctures, not just the one with the huge leak.
 

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Uhm, probably becasue they use the same engaement system. It's a worm drive clamp with a spring on it. That cost $7 at that.

You sure you had the right size clamp on there to begin with? Yes, if you use a clamp that is too large it will be very likely to leak. But it all comes back to using them correctly.

I see ZERO flex couplers on your setup. They are a very good idea to set up an IC piping system.

Hum, $2.50 for a T-bolt...$7.00 for a CT clamp...
I have yet to have any issues on cars I have done piping on when using T-bolts. Not really worth paying an extra $4.50 a clamp in my mind.

But I guess if you guys are made of money to waste on things like clamps, that's cool. I mean, it's better to spend the money on clamps and hoses then an upgraded turbo, right?
 

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99 GST - why do you argue if you've never used them?

I went from Tbolts to CT as well, and was pleasantly suprised at how much nicer they are. I've never had Tbolts leak but they sucked in every other aspect, the only benefit over regular cheapo worm drive was that they didn't slip.

CT don't slip, and hold very well. I'd recommend them to the OP.
 

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99_GS-T said:
Uhm, probably becasue they use the same engaement system. It's a worm drive clamp with a spring on it.
"Uhm," no it's not.

Seeing as you have never used one, I'm sure have had the chance to look at how it is constructed and how it functions. :rolleyes:

99_GS-T said:
That cost $7 at that.
I paid just about $5-$6 each which is exactly what I paid for the Turbonetics T-bolts that I was not happy with.

99_GS-T said:
You sure you had the right size clamp on there to begin with? Yes, if you use a clamp that is too large it will be very likely to leak. But it all comes back to using them correctly.
*sigh* ... Wow, you got it. Instead of measuring my pipes, I just ordered a pack of 12" diameter T-bolts and clamped them down.

If I was going to go through the trouble to special order clamps, I assure you that I spent some time measuring them :rolleyes:

99_GS-T said:
I see ZERO flex couplers on your setup. They are a very good idea to set up an IC piping system.
Correct, there are no hump hoses (I'm assuming that is what you meant by flex couplers) and they are typically a good idea.

First off, my set up is extremely tight. Engine movement is severely minimized at this point.
Secondly, most IC "kits" for the MR2 don't use hump hoses (assuming that is what you are talking about.
Thirdly, the only hoses I blew off were from pressure - not movement.

99_GS-T said:
But I guess if you guys are made of money to waste on things like clamps, that's cool. I mean, it's better to spend the money on clamps and hoses then an upgraded turbo, right?
Why even make statements like this? :dontknow:

It's pointless and adds nothing and, for the record, I haven't seen anyone with an MR2 with "upgraded" clamps that hasn't already had an upgraded turbo so your statement is even more ridiculous.
 
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