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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well as the title says, I just passed 95K on my 93 turbo. I bought it with 78K on the odo and it is running perfect as far as I can tell. The thing that concerns me is that I haven't done any real maintenance on it. After driving almost 20K since I got it, what are some things that I should do at this point or get ready to do? The turbo has pretty much no shaft play and I get about 26mpg on the highway and 22 in the city, decent right? It would seem thats an indicator the engine is healthy. And FYI I did a search but there are only a few scattered things around. Any links, referrals, or advice would be great. TIA Thanks in Advance.
 

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Major jobs:
Timing belt, water pump, t belt tensioner, All v belts, HFH & HFHOE hoses

Minor jobs:
Change tranny gear oil, coolant, all coolant hoses, feul filter, Feul injector O rings & grommets (i like to replace them b/c they may cause some boost leaks, but if theyre not leaking they dont need to be replaced)

Has any of this stuff been done before you bought it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm pretty sure the original owner took good care of it, as he had the turbo and clutch replaced at toyota shortly before the 78K when I bought it. I'm assuming he also replaced the timing belt at 60K (when you're supposed to right?). I'll have to replace it at 120K again correct? It seems all the fuel components are in good order. It pulls super hard and holds the 15psi I have it set at, so no boost leaks that I can notice. My car is a bit of a freak. For some reason it registered about 109~ psi in each cylinder when I did a compression test when it's supposed to be around 80. I think that's why I run a 13.5 on a completely stock turbo except for the upped boost. Also, how often to people usually replace the plugs, wires, and distributor?
 

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I replace my timing belts at 90k mile inervals & if your T belt was replaced at 60k miles (check ur receipts and engine bay for a record) then next time would be around 150-170k miles. If the belt snaps theres no worries (non interference engine), so its just a matter of do you want it to snap on you on ur time or not.

Copper plugs last for 5k i THINK and i like to replace my cap and rotor at the same time.. No idea how long plug wires last before theyre out of spec.
Test your o2 sensor according to the BGB to check if its slow as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, that's good info. That is great news that it is non interference with the t-belt. This guy at the shop where I was getting my alternator installed almost gave me a heart attack telling me that if it snaps I'll need a new engine and blah blah blah. I don't have the receipts that far back, will any toyota dealer have records if he got it done at a dealership (dif locations) ?
 

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SHiFTMR2t said:
Thanks, that's good info. That is great news that it is non interference with the t-belt. This guy at the shop where I was getting my alternator installed almost gave me a heart attack telling me that if it snaps I'll need a new engine and blah blah blah. I don't have the receipts that far back, will any toyota dealer have records if he got it done at a dealership (dif locations) ?

No idea, but on both of my mr2's the dealership put a sticker on the cruise control plastic cover and the T belt cover itself witht he mileage and date it was replaced on.
 

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109 psi compression test? Is that on a warm engine with the guage screwed in tight and throttle opened?

That doesn't sound right. Should be 150+ psi. But if it's even across the board you either have some low compression internals or your guage is off.
 

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this is good info.

I'm going to be swapping my engine for to a JDM Gen2 (i wish gen3) and will be doing all of the following before it goes in. The engine has under 40K.

-dist. cap
-plugs
-rotor
-fuel filter
-timing belt
-tensioner


Among other things... I'm gonna get a HKS headgasket put in, new clutch with resurfaced flywheel, and some arp headstuds. But these are really major things.

I also have a question, what else should I do before my jdm engine goes in?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ilya said:
109 psi compression test? Is that on a warm engine with the guage screwed in tight and throttle opened?

That doesn't sound right. Should be 150+ psi. But if it's even across the board you either have some low compression internals or your guage is off.
OH! My fault...it was 209, not 109 psi, sorry.
 

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SHiFTMR2t said:
OH! My fault...it was 209, not 109 psi, sorry.
Those #'s are very high. I bet you have a lot of carbon build-up on there. I would recommend you run seafoam through the engine. You will need to replace the plugs and o2 sensor after doing so as they will be fouled.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Yeah I did do seafoam after I found out my compression was that high. I haven't run a compression test after yet. The whole can was emptied in there pretty much, and filled my entire neighborhood up with that white smoke. I have noticed no difference at all, it still pulls real hard, and the sensors don't seem to be hurt by it. Could the ECU be involved in working things out? I have a 93 JDM stock ecu (best mod ever btw - leans out the fuel a bit and makes everything run so much smoother). I'm pretty sure I'll be fine if I do seafoam once in awhile. There are no plans for putting the boost past 15psi or any other engine mods. I am convinced though that the higher compression is the reason for me being faster than most MR2s with my mods. The 3SGTE should be strong enough so I won't have to worry about anything. What would cause my excessive carbon buildup anyway?
 
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