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Discussion Starter #1
My son and I just embarked on our first car journey together- he wanted an AE86 but they are mental money, next best thing, mr2.

Scouring the web can't really find a definitive answer. I had a 91 Celica in my 20's and it was a 5 speed, clutch was pretty light on it- pedal press. I had a 91 Mustang 5.0 and the clutch in that thing built leg muscles, stiff as hell. I currently drive a 6 speed 323i- clutch is like a feather in my car, nothing to pressing it down- this MR2 is somewhere between my Celica and my mustang, not crazy hard but hard enough. Car had an engine swap done, it has an 88 engine in it. I asked the seller if he put a clutch in it and said no, we just used what was there- obviously a get it running and driving to flip kind of deal. Is this normal? Is it supposed to be stiff, it's hydraulic and in my mind it should be pretty light, this thing isn't light at all.
 

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Welcome to the group.

If the clutch is working smoothly, not grabbing, sticking or chattering, and not making any noise, I wouldn't worry about it. The clutch in my 88SC is about the same pedal-pressure as my 2018 Civic SI. Not super light, and not Ford F250 stiff.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks!

Well i've made some progress with this thing.

First off, when it came off the car hauler from the US it wouldn't start. We boosted it and got it off the car hauler and i drove it home- high charging indicator and the 3 dash lights lighting up. I got it back home and left it for a few hours. Next day battery stone dead after I left it on charge for hours. Took the battery in and tested it- dead. Bought a new battery, same symptom of high charge, obviously the alternator regulator was fried- measured draw with the alternator connected- 2200ma, or 2.2 AMPS not running- alternator disconnected 100ma! Replaced the alternator and all is well in the world- charging at 14v and the car seems to somewhat behave now- runs better that's for sure.

Idle is an issue- i got the timing dialed in to 10 deg, it was wayyyyy off. Found that the snorkel going from the MAF to the TB was split so i cut off an inch and managed to shove it on over the TB. Idle still not coming down, adjusted the air idle screw as low as possible and still kicking around 1200RPM. I suspect the IACV is the issue. What is with these things and wax valves using hot coolant to close them off, is this 1910???? Electronics had long been around by 1989, why wouldn't toyota use a solenoid on a timer to control warm up? Anyways, i'm going to pull the TB and clean it up, i suspect it's quite dirty. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the group.

If the clutch is working smoothly, not grabbing, sticking or chattering, and not making any noise, I wouldn't worry about it. The clutch in my 88SC is about the same pedal-pressure as my 2018 Civic SI. Not super light, and not Ford F250 stiff.

Good luck.
Nope not grabbing or sticking or chattering, it's just more firm than i'm used to. I drove it after you posted and i guess it's just harder than my bimmer :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well this just keeps getting better and better. Trying to solve the 1200rpm idle- pulled the TB and cleaned the IACV and TB and put it back on. Car started, idle still strange, 1200 rpm and then bounce up to 1600 and back down again. Thought i'd pull and test the TPS, pulled and tested, adjusted and bam- won't start. Check engine light no longer works with key on. This morning when i went to start the CEL kinda flickered and died, hasn't been back on since. I've checked all the fuses, pulled the ECU and recapped, checked grounds, checked for 12v at the ECU and this is where it gets interesting. The +B is 2.0v with all 3 of the harnesses connected to the ECU. If i unplug the middle harness the 2V jumps back up to 12v. Everything i've read in the BGB says check grounds, check the light and finally try another ECU. I'm 99% certain the ECU went bad, the fading and dying CEL was an indicator. I've already shorted the ECU to ground to light up the CEL, it does indeed work. I've checked the 15amp fuse, 7.5 amp fuse by the driver side left kick panel, i've swapped main relay to efi and back, tested for 12 V at the B+ , only time I get it is when the middle block to the ECU is disconnected- i pulled almost every electrical connector to every switch/sensor and i still get between 1.8 and 2v at the b+. I ordered a ECU, should be in next week.
 

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If you are measuring low voltage, then the problem is a bad connection in the wiring harness. Just trace voltage relative to the chassis until you find the discontinuity.

The fading CEL just indicates that the ECU isn't getting power. Not its fault that it needs to be fed.
 

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Spent 3 hours yesterday ohming out all wires going to the ECU for continuity, all wires were good. The only one I couldn't ohm out was the speed sensor as that involves removing the dash. I've swapped all relays- I have access to an 85 parts car , no change. Ground all measure fine, cleaned them just for fun. I disconnected all connectors going to every sensor less the speed sensor and the check engine light came back but it was flickering still- still 2.10V at the +b and +b1 wiring. Still not convinced the ECU is faulty? What else could it be?
 

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May have found my issue, seems the wiring harness to the AFM is causing it- i fired it up today , messing with the afm harness I got a CEL and it runs. Will keep this post updated.
 

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Spent 3 hours yesterday ohming out all wires going to the ECU for continuity, all wires were good...
Do not waste your time testing power harnesses with an ohmmeter. You have nowhere near the necessary sensitivity, and you will learn less than nothing. What you want to do is power up the circuit and test voltage relative to chassis. That will tell you exactly where the bad connection is.
 

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Not sure if this helps you at all, but it may be worth checking out.

Had a similar issue on my car with rpm’s bouncing up to 1800 from 1000. I think it may have been the VSV that leads to the A/C compressor. The engine runs fine when the VSV is unpowered.
 

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Bouncing idle is usually due to air in the coolant. This happens when the coasting fuel cut activates, and anything that causes an abnormally high idle will do it. The AC is only involved because the idle normally goes up with AC engaged, so a higher threshold is allowed.
 
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