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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So over the summer I spun 2 rod bearings in my built 3sgte in my 91 turbo swapped mr2. It basically scrapped the entire engine. Luckily I was able to save my Gen 2 cylinder head. This whole rod bearing dilemma and obtaining a free 1999 5sfe block gave me a good excuse to finally build a 5sgte.

Pictures and info will be added as I have time



Car will be tuned on E85

Build List:

Electronics:
-Haltech PS1000
-Auber instruments 5 bar MAP
-gm iat sensor

Engine:
-99 5sfe block
-99 5sfe crank ground to 3s specs
-ATS 8.5:1 HD wisecos
-3sgte CROWER billet connecting rods
-ACL race bearings, mains rods, thrust
-ARP L19 head studs
-ARP main studs
-ATS 5sgte head gasket
-98+ 5sfe oil pump, cleaned casting
-Balanced and blueprinted

Head:
-Gen 2 jdm 3sgte head
-ported/polished
-3 angle valve job
-GSC Gen 2 274 cams
-Engle valve springs
-BC spring retainers
-super tech valve locks
-shimless bucket conversion
-+1mm ferrea valves
-ATS cam gears
-OEM 3rd gen 3sgte timing belt
-5sfe oil pump gear

Exhaust/Turbo
-Comp turbo billet 6765 w/.63ar turbine
-PTE 46mm external waste gate
-Custom equal length long runner manifold by me
-4" SS exhaust w/race muffler (custom by me)
-4" SS dp (custom by me)

Intake:
-Straight runner intake manifold (custom by me)
-75mm mustang throttle body, viton seal mod, shaved, rmr tps adapter and rmr throttle wheel
-vertical rear mounted mishimoto intercooler
-2.5" hot side piping
-3" cold piping
-Tial 50mm BOV
-4" intake to turbo (custom by me)
-green filter air cleaner

Fuel/ignition
-FIC 2150cc injectors
-top feed -8an fuel rail made by me
-255 walbro in tank feeding swirl pot in trunk -6an feed and return
-Aeromotive a1000 gravity fed from swirl pot -8an feed -6an return
-summit fpr
-2.5qt swirl pot custom by me

Ignition as of now:
-stock distributor, new rotor and cap
-msd 6a
-msd hvc 8252
-91 oem plug wires new

Drivetrain/other:
-91 e153 w/LSD added
-CRW chromoly axle cages
-Fidanza al. flywheel
-SPEC stage 5 iron clutch
-Solid engine mounts
-X2 -10an crankcase breathers in valve cover

Chassis:
-K-sport coil overs
-all suspension bushing replaced w/ poly bushings or heims
-JIC magic rear traction arms
-Forgeline wc3 3-piece wheels 17x8 and 17x9.5
-91 turbo brakes for now

Wiring
-Stripped factory 91 turbo harness to bare minimals, extended and shrink wrapped
-Fuse box relocated to trunk
-wire tucked
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
My 5s block wasnt drilled for the axle carrier or alternator. I made a jig out of an engine stand to hold the block solid so I could use my drill press for perfectly straight holes.


*Only pertinent to those using 5sfe blocks with balance shaft assembly*
I forgot to mention that the balance shaft oil feed oil must be plugged to maintain proper oil pressure! I tapped it, red lock tighted a bolt, and tightened it with a crush washer to plug this hole.

New GSC 274's showed up at my door yesterday
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Not for my car but identical to what I am running on my car. Top feed fuel rail I made for a local guy to help fund this whole engine build.



Sorry for the small pictures, I wasnt able to upload them any bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I have been ordering the rest of my parts to complete this engine. I have acl rod bearings, bc ti valve spring retainers, and paint for my engine bay ordered as of last night.

I also dropped my block, crank, and pistons off at my machinist over last weekend. That should be done next week some time.



In the mean time I painted all of the engine brackets as well as my spindles and control arms black.



Ive also decided on building a straight runner intake manifold. I am using 1/8" aluminum for the plenum as well as the runners. It will be a tapered plenum design including velocity stacks which ill be turning on my lathe. I sheared and bent out the plenum material at work today.



I am also tossing around the idea of building solid engine mounts, I have kirkosauras mounts right now. I dont really care about the little extra vibration. This is a street car but only driven when the sun is shining on weekends. Any other cons to completely solid mounts other than vibration? What do you guys think?

Also, does anyone know what kind of hp an Aeromotive a1000 will support in a gravity fed set up? Ive searched but cant find a very clear answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Its been awhile since Ive posted anything on this thread, been pretty busy between getting ready for this race season, work, and school. I have gotten some time to work on my car though. I had some time this afternoon so I formed the velocity stacks for the runners on my intake manifold. The stacks are not finished yet, I have to do a final cut on them then polish. I forgot to get sandpaper this afternoon.

-Started with 2.25"x .120 wall 6061 aluminum tube.
-Turned 1.65" of the tube down to .060" so it would form without cracking(6061 is not a good choice for forming but it can be done)





I also decided to make a shift knob,

-Started with solid aluminum bar stock. weighs about a 1/2lb


In the past couple weeks I also:

Painted my engine bay. I cut a hole for my intake mani and shaved a few things. I also have new gas tank heat shields on the way.


Welded 2 -10an bungs on my valve cover


Built my head, this head only had a few hundred miles on it. I checked it over and everything checked out good so it did not need any machining. Only thing I had to do was adjust some of the valve buckets as I was not happy with the valve clearances.



Upon disassembly I discovered a broken valve lock. Good thing I bought supertech locks. So as of now I have broken a factory retainer and a factory lock. Notice the new titanium retainers in the pictures above.


Got my block back from my machinist and painted it.


My rotating assembly is currently getting balanced at a local shop. I should have all of that back sometime this week.

Then its assembly time!!:thumbup
 

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I dig the build man! Nice hardtop im in the same boat hardtop n/a to 3s and im rebuilding my gen2 too. Im just on stock ecu ct26 for meow. Really wish i could go 5s block now but need to stay 2.0L for the stock ecu until i go with a ems next year.

Since you have gone 5s block now do you think it would be for me much more expensive or a pita to go build a 2.0L 5s block now while there? Im talking 350-400whp in the end and im not keen of building another block later lol. Cheers man
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wish it was a hardtop but it's actually a sunroof car. The cost difference isn't a whole lot between building a 5s bottom end vs. 3s bottom end. Shelf pistons for either set up are about the same price, Rods are the same if you use 3s rods(then you have to grind the 5s crank of course). Getting my 5s crank machined was the most expensive machine work I had to have done($250 For rods and mains ground).
 

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Sunroof is nice too. Id love to have one as a daily/ cruiser when its nice out. Hardtop is really dark inside but is great when you want that fighter jet feel haha

Couldnt i use my 3s crank and avoid grinding the 5s crank to except 3s rods? Either way $250 isnt a big deal for me. Im already planning on some weisco pistons as my stock pistons are beat pretty bad. I think the stock rods though will handle my power fine.
 

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Yeah theres no doubt having it a 2.2L would be way better but at this stage i just want to drive the damn thing and keeping it 2.0L so i can run it on stock ecu this summer is my only choice lol.

Are the stock rods really a problem being the weight they are? Like besides rotational mass what problems will i face? Only reason i semi hijacked your thread which im sorry about lol was that i know these 3s blocks can crack at anytime north of 350whp which is where im going. So figured it may be better to just do a 5s block now since im rebuilding her anyways.

Edit: just looked on ATS Racings site and eagle rods are 375 which isnt really too bad. Worth it?

Cheers guys
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Strength of a 5s block would most definitely be a good piece of mind. I think JDM SNUKUMZ had a few sets of eagles listed on here for like $300 shipped brand new; might be worth it to shoot him a PM. For that money I would buy them.

When thinking about rods you have to think that a piston basically stops at the top of the stroke, followed by getting ripped straight backwards down the cylinder. So the heavier the rod is the more power it takes to get that rod moving again. All of this also has to do with how high you plan on revving the engine. There are many good threads out there on rotating assemblies and the forces exerted from them.

I am going to try to get my intake manifold together between now and Sunday(depends on how ambitious I feel). Cut the tubing for my manifold runners during class today. Ill try to update regularly.

If anyone else has info, thoughts, or ideas feel free to chime in,
 

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I agree at $300 its totally worth it. Atleast i can feel good about my bottom end at any power level even if its stock 200 or 500hp. My goal was to build a beams/5sgte but honestly if i build this block right and throw some gsc's in my head later i can reach anywhere in those power goals.

Looking forward to seeing the manifold
 
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