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1993 ADM
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I've been looking for replacement mounts for a while now to swap from my old original mounts.
The engine shifts a considerable amount when I let the clutch out and it rattles the whole car.
I've been looking at the 60a innovative mounts kit, has anyone else run them on their NA? Is the vibration from the engine a deal breaker for you? 60a is the softest poly they use in those kits and finding standard replacements is getting more expensive here in Australia.

I cant find anywhere that says the kit doesnt fit a 3sge with a s54 trans.

Cheers
 

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They will fit the 3SGE. It's the same setup as the 2.2 engine.
You could get some Kirk inserts or check your rear mount isn't fully torn. The front mount might appear broken but they are actually a 2 piece mount unlike the turbo that is more like the rear.
 

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Someone from the old guard tipped me on a method for modifying the stiff poly mounts that reduces the NVH from these mounts significantly. I have tried it on several cars and it works. It turns out the NVH is caused mostly by a fault in the construction/design of the mount that it is easily corrected while preserving all the performance advantages of the mount. Watch.

 

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I just bought new oem mounts from amayama. The rear 3sge mounts are still available and the front turbo mounts bolt right in. I had kirk inserts but the vibration was way too much for me personally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
12371-74230 Is what ive got online for a rear engine mount,
12361-74110 Is what i have for the front turbo mount. This look right to you?
I will be replacing the mounts anyways and will get rid of the 2 pc front mount however id still like to give kirks inserts a go.
The turbo insert set he sells should be the right fit since im changing these mounts yeah?

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Yes those numbers are what I get too, 3sge rear mount, 3sgte front mount. Yes you would need kirk turbo front and n\a rear.

I don't think the turbo and n\a rears will accept the same insert, they are physically slightly different. But similar enough that only toyota knows why they had to have two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys for your help, replacing the two piece mount on the front should make a noticeable difference but im still keen to see how kirks inserts go. I've ordered the mounts and shot off an email to Kirk,

Cheers
 

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I just bought new oem mounts from amayama. The rear 3sge mounts are still available and the front turbo mounts bolt right in. I had kirk inserts but the vibration was way too much for me personally.
What vibrations?! :ROFLMAO:
Yes, idle vibrations are more but I have had them so long I don't notice it anymore.
 

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Yes those numbers are what I get too, 3sge rear mount, 3sgte front mount. Yes you would need kirk turbo front and n\a rear.

I don't think the turbo and n\a rears will accept the same insert, they are physically slightly different. But similar enough that only toyota knows why they had to have two.
Rear turbo mount is physically taller so changes the through bolt location. Not sure about the rubber bit.
Kirk makes inserts for both NA and turbo mounts for the front. Just pick the right ones when ordering.
 

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What vibrations?! :ROFLMAO:
Yes, idle vibrations are more but I have had them so long I don't notice it anymore.
I can't explain it but for me it was like a stripped out racecar at high rpm. I still have issues with M6 bolts coming undone occasionally (valve cover mainly) and excessive vibration. Supposedly the engine shop did a full balance. I don't know....
 

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I can't explain it but for me it was like a stripped out racecar at high rpm. I still have issues with M6 bolts coming undone occasionally (valve cover mainly) and excessive vibration. Supposedly the engine shop did a full balance. I don't know....
Those valve cover bolts never stay tight. But if you are getting others coming loose then there is something else going on.
I don't find my engine vibrating excessively at high RPM. It's interesting as we have the same car, but in saying that every SW20 I have driven has felt different.
I'm still a young lad haha so a bit more vibration won't be too much of an issue haha. If anything I can tweak the idle RPMS a bit to get it good but it is what it is.
You'll be fine. The idle vibrations are only really noticeable when you do the change. Then it's just part of the car. It's not like it is a new Mercedes or Lexus. It's a 32 year old car and they are showing their age when it comes to comfort. I wouldn't have it any other way though.
 

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Those valve cover bolts never stay tight. But if you are getting others coming loose then there is something else going on.
I don't find my engine vibrating excessively at high RPM. It's interesting as we have the same car, but in saying that every SW20 I have driven has felt different.
I was thinking of putting a small dot of locktite on each one. They are stainless with new rubber washers. I think the black crud after 30 years is what glues them to the cover.

The only other bolts I noticed are the two M6 that hold either end of that black sheet metal cover at the bottom of the transmission \ block.
 

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Yeah some medium strength Loctite would be one way to hold them in place. The rubber gasket is the reason these bolts come loose. You don't have a metal on metal contact, instead a rubber expandable and contractible medium in between that messes with the tension held on the bolt head.

Ah yip, maybe didn't do them up tight enough for that lower cover.
 
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