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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, today I got the nerve to mess with the MR2 again. I relocated the ground wire right under the oil sender,. on the HFH bolt. Since the manual said I needed a engine ground close to the sender that was the closest. Anyways. I started the car and yes I have oil pressure, BUT very little. I would say 4psi max. But before all of this happened I took off the sender and started the car, and oil drizzeled out. Before oil shot out all over the fire wall. The last time I started the car I walked back to the bay and listened to this horrible clanking noise coming from the timing belt side of the car. So I waltz over there and I notice metal particals(very noticable sizes) flying everywhere. I took off the top part of the timing belt cover a couple of weeks ago. I also noticed the belt was pretty loose. So my theory is that the belt is turning the pump but its loose enough to where its eating away at the pump pulley (belt is turning faster than the pulley). Also, when I would drive the car, I would notice a burning rubber smell when I would get over 70mph. I also noticed there is a lot of metal particals built up inside the timing belt cover. Does anyone else have any ideas?? Also When I was looking at the gauge psi went to 4-5psi, then it all the sudden droped back to 0 then it went back to 4-5psi.
 

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Yeah, sounds like the tensioner to me too. It's probably a bitch to get to while the motor is still in the car... :(
 
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Discussion Starter #4
yea,... I dont think its possible to get to with the engine in the car.... um,.. could I of possibly spunt a bearing because of this problem. Im kinda worried that happened,. because theres this weird rubbing noise coming from the engine.
 

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Make a recording of it if you can... because it does sound like rod knock to me.

If your tensioner was off or loose you'd be jumping timing like no other and your car would probably stop running, instead you say it keeps running and is now making strange noises AND you have incredibly low oil pressure. As Ian said in a previous thread, oil pumps don't make preasure, they make flow, which is related.

Sounds like rod knock man. :(
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I have one more question,.. rod knock,. im leaning more and more towards that being my problem,... is there a way to save the engine if the knock just began or is that already too late??
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Should I just pull the pan again and Take off a few of the bearing caps and see if i have a spent bearing??? or just yank the motor out??(I probally wont be doing this, someone else will)
 

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I took my motor out and then decided what I wanted to do with it. I decided to just replace it since the 5SFE was such a common motor.

I'd remove the motor and see what your bearings look like. It is possible to rebuild, and not a huge PITA, just more time and money than I wanted to spend.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Yea,... I would take the engine out but,... I dont have any place other than a couple acres of grass to work. Hopefully my mechanic will take another stab at it.... We have all the tools just no shop..... and I absolutely hate working on grass. Would the junk yard be a good place to pick up a 5sfe block??? Im keeping that head, it's been shaved ported and polished.,. Im pretty sure its still usable....
 
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Discussion Starter #12
update: well I just called the master mechanic and he said to bring it over there friday,... so I have to wait until then because Im not fooling with the car anymore,... So until then!! In the mean time i'll just finish mounting my gauge.
 

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You don't have to pull the motor to inspect the bearings. You can just drop the b-pipe, and then then the pan and pull the caps off to inspect them. The tensioner can be replaced with the motor still in the car as well.

The oil pressure sendor nit reads oil pressure in the head. So you rod and main bearing could be fine but the head is what could have been damaged but a rubbing sound is in no way a knock. A knock sounds just like it's named. The rubbing sound could quite possibly be the T-belt rubbing on the cover seeing as you said it was loose. I really doubt you belt is destroying the pulley because the pulley is metal and the belt is rubber and well you get the picture. The belt's teeth would be stripped off before the teeth on the pulley are. Odds are your tensioner will need to be replaced.

One thing you can do is pull the pan and inspect the oil pick up tube because it could be such a thing as the screen on it is covered in sludge or something to that effect. Or the pick-up tube somehow got bent down and is too close to the bottom of the pan and is restricting flow.

Oil pressure is caused from the path and the restrictions in that path that the oil flows.

What gauge are you mounting and where? If you are talking about you oil pressure gauge, if it's mechanical, I wouldn't mount that in the cabin of the car because if for some reason the hose on that gauge pops off or bursts it will be spraying hot oil everywhere. If you aren't already, mount it in the engine bay.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
^^ Its an electrical autometer phantom oil pressure gauge,.. and its in the most awkard place imanigable. i will post pics of it when i finish mounting it.. Buts it is right above where your right knee would be if you were sitting in the car driving down the road. Its a good place for me ebecause im only 5'7 and my knees dont come close to that kick pannel. The pannel that covers that metal plate that everyone seems to wonder what its for, its on the right side of that pannel... if that makes sence. I took the pan off before, there was no sludge built up over the pick up screen or anything.. The engine is new if i havent mentioned that before. and what you said about the belt destroying the pulley makes complete sence to that takes me back to square 1...
 
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
not much,. just get a oil pressure gauge,. you um,.... crap.. get a electircal gauge,. take off that long pannel thing that covers up the shifter cables,. get a 10 or 12mm socket cant remember wich, take off that black thing where the cables run through,. take the sender,. you will need a 1/8" NPT adapter(im not 100% on the npt part, its something like that) Take off the light sender thing replace it with that,. if you want to keep the light you will need a t fitting,... put one on one part of the t and the other sender on the other thread the last part of the t into the block,. take a wire run it from the oil pressure sender into the cabin and cut a ignition wire,. i cut the acc wire. so my gauge comes on when you turn the key to the acc position. mount a engine ground wire somewhere near the sender,. i choose the hfh bolt under the sender. run it though the bay,. mount that wire to the back of the gauge. theres another wire i forget where that one goes..... ____......actually im stupid ignore the above,. take the ignition wire run it through acc then mount that wire to the back of the gauge where it says ign+ take the sender wire run it to the back of the gauge,. theres 3 wires on mine negative the starter wire(acc wire) and theres the + wire that runs from the sender to the back of the gauge,. then all you have to do is wire up the lights for the gauge,. i havent done that yet. and mount it then your done,. its pretty easy. it took me about a hour and a half.

edit: lol that is super confusing,... I will have to do a write up on this whenever im finished because i cant remember half of what I did.... but the acc wire is located,... theres this little circle thing that mounts at the end of the ignition thing,. the long metal pole... yea.. thats where the acc wire is,. you can choose any wire as long as its getting a 12volt source whenever the key is turned to either acc or on and it continues to have 12volt until the key is turned to off.. Its a lot easier once you get under there and start fooling around with stuff,..
 
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
heres a pic i uploaded when i first got everything mocked up.


heres another


heres that black thing with the 2 bolts i mentioned

 

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The electronic oil pressure gauge is the only type that should be put in the cabin of a car.The mechanical one is perfect to have in your shop that you can pull out and hook it up to see what your pressure is. A mechanical is as easy as unscrewing the pressure sendor and screwing in the fitting that comes with the gauge.
 
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