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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Allright, after i poseted up pics of my wheels i got a few request for a write up. well here it goes:


HOW TO BRING BACK LIFE TO THOSE CRAPPY 3-PIECE WHEELS:

This is just a write up not a complete technical guidance. so please do your research before attempting to dissassemble and reassemble 3- piece wheels.


TOOLS NEEDED:
-Duplicor high performance wheel paint
-razor knife
-acetone
-fine steel wool
-PEEK
-torque wrench
-socket set
-wrench set
-aircraft stripper
-green brilo pads
-wire wheel
-electric drill
-"The Right Stuff" gasket maker

1. Allright so your wheels have arrived. and this is what they look like.

First things first gather all your tools needed for the job or you will be like me and run to and from autozone a couple of times.

2. next you want to grab your razor knife and cut the silicone as shown so you can take the rims apart:(you may have to make a couple of passes dependent on how thick the silicon is)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
3. after you have cut the silicone pry your wheels apart. they may give you a hard time and take a little muscel, but they should come right apart. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD OR ANYTHING ELSE TO PRY THEM APART! YOU MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE RIM AND IT MAY NOT SEAL PROPERLY!


4. Once the peices are apart then grab the wire wheel and begine to take off all the silicone residue on the pieces. I used a fine wire wheel rather than a real rough wire wheel:


5. after you have all the silicone residue off you can then start taking off the old powder coat on the spokes. I started to use this but came to relize it was scratching the crap out of the wheel: so instead i used aircraft stripper and some brilo pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
6. next you can take a break from that cause i was pretty pooped after doing that and enjoy your self one of these:

7. this is the real time consuming part. take some fine steel wool and a can of peek and begin polishing each individual bolt and the lips on the wheels.


8. once you have that done set the lips and the bolts aside. take the sokes to the wheel and the back side of the wheel and scrub the piss out of them with a green brilo pad and dawn dish soap and let them air dry.

9. after they are dry take your duplicolor wheel paint and begine painting the wheel. i painted mine with the gunmetal and the inner part black.
TAKE YOUR TIME, YOU ARE NOT A PROFESSIONAL PAINTER. remember to lay a couple thin coats rather than one heavy coat. TAKE YOUR TIME!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
10. after your wheels are all painted up and dry you are ready for assembly. take some aceton3e and a rag and wipe down the mating surfaces. put your wheels together and put all ther bolts in. only finger tighten them. then take your torque wrench and what every torque that the manufacturer has deemed those bolts, begine to torque down in a criss cross pattern.

11. once you are finished you can seal them up. you can use regular 100% ATV silicone. i am using "The Right Stuff" gasket maker. great stuff IMO. then just seal off the inner wheel like shown with the sealant and let dry for 24 hours or 72 to be safe.

and this is what they should look like


enjoy your wheels.


-Stuart
 

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One other note: it's a good idea to replace the assembly bolts (and nuts, for that matter) whenever a wheel is disassemled. In the initial assembly process, the nuts are torqued at the factory which actually stresses the bolts (this puts them in tension; this is done intentionally).

When you re-torque the nuts, the bolts get stretched again... I have seen cases where the heads of the bolts snap off or the bolt will break flush with the back of the nut's flat surface. This can occur either during assembly or even months after, due to fatigue. I don't EVER re-use head bolts or wheel assembly bolts - but, at the end of the day, I'd rather blow a head gasket than have a wheel come apart at 80mph.

As mentioned above, it is CRITICAL that the assembly hardware be torqued to the wheel manufacturer's specifications. Bolt materials and suppliers vary, so there is no "generic" torque spec.

Final note; I recommend regular 100% RTV CLEAR Silicone to seal the wheels. The silicone is present only to seal the wheel, not to hold it together. And the CLEAR silicone will allow you to inspect the seal for bubbles, imperfections, or damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i agree highly with the replacing of the bolts. but talk to the manufacture. for serios track use where dissassembly and reassembly is required for each off season then its a must.

but be prepaired to pay a pretty penny. these specific bolts from work cost 8 bucks each. there are 36 per wheel. do the math
 

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Discussion Starter #11
not yet. i am hopeing by the end of this week. i have to order my tires tomarrow. then mount/balnce them.

i will definitly post pics. but here is the ar they are going on:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
also you recomended the clear rtv. is this just so you can see the air bubbles or do you think it will work better than the stuff i used
 

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Discussion Starter #13
my wheels are finished. but just to give an update my tires were shipped today. so keep looking. hopefully monday i will have pics for you guys on the car and have the "How-To" finished.
 

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is the clear RTV you speak of the same as the stuff used for roofing etc, or is it an automotive product? Because I've never seen clear RTV for automotive use.

Also, what do you think would be best to do if you don't know who the wheel manufacturer is, and so don't know what the torque specs are?
 

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great job on the wheels .

im doing the same thing but i was a little affraid of taking the peices apart . are you sure that the ATV will hold air under preasure (leak)? IE 40 PSI and a pot-hole you couldnt avoid in the road .

i also tried asking the manufacture about the torque specs , and they wouldnt give me the numbers .

in case somebody might know . the wheels are 19 x 12 and 19 x 9.5 RACING HART C2's three piece

thanks jeff
 
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I finally got around to doing mine. Took em apart and took teh face in for powder coating. I'll post pics next week too once i reassemble them.
 

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Nice write-up and good job of restoring them! :thumbup

hmm, must be some older equips cuz my centerpiece (not center caps) don't look like that. :dontknow:
 

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So, the wheel bolts can not be reused even once? Hmm... thats discouraging... I need to take apart my GTPs to clean and repaint them, but I guess Ill just get more tools to get into the little nooks between the bolts, and then just mask around the area I want to paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i have yet to have a problem with re-using wheel bolts. but then again i am buying new ones when i get to florida cause i will be powder coating my wheels

i am not suggesting that you can re-use them.
 
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