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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There's a ton of info on building 5SGTE strokers, but most of it is scattered around in several differend threads. I kept reading little titbits in posts that something was needed or didn't need to be used - it was very confusing and still left a ton of questions unanswered for the person looking into this motor. I decided to put together a complete list of what is needed - what you use from the 3S, what you use from the 5S, any modifications that are needed to OEM parts, and a list of reccommended parts to replace while the motor is apart and being worked on. All OEM prices listed are from Lithia Toyota(www.lithiatoyotaparts.com). If anyone notices anything that is incorrect or a better option, please let me know and I'll update my post. Also - this post is a work in progress that will be updated often and more things added to it. I hope it can help people in the future...


Parts that are needed:


3SGTE Parts:

1.) - Complete head: Nothing is used from the 5S head, you will need everything that is in and bolted onto the 3S head.

2.) - 3SGTE dip stick fitting: This will break if you try to remove it from the 3S block, just get a new one and install it in the 5S Block. OEM Part# 90405-10034 - $4.80

3.) - Oil pump: You can reuse your 3S oil pump, but it's probably a good time to replace it. I went with the ATS high volume pump - $169 HERE - for any upgraded oil pump, use the 3S oil pump gear instead of the 5S one.

4.) - Bearings: Rod, crank, and main bearings are needed. Wait until your machine work is finished to buy these in case you end up needing a larger size than std. - like if the machine shop had to take off more material than normal.

5.) - Clutch: The stock 3S clutch will work, but I went with the ATS modified ClutchMasters FX400 - $499 HERE

6.) - Flywheel: You use the 3S flywheel, but 5S flywheel bolts. You need to enlongate the bolt holes in the 3S flywheel so they will match up to the 5S crankshaft - sounds scary, but this is what 99% of 5SGTE builders do and it works fine. Or, you can buy an aftermarket flywheel made for either the 3S or 5S and it will already have the enlongated holes.

7.) - Oil Pan: Use the 3S oil pan since it already has the oil return for the turbo. If you need new oil pan alignment studs(2) for the 5S block they are: OEM Part# 90116-06022 - $0.40

8.) - Water pump: Well, you don't need the water pump, but you do need the inlet hose bracket that has the bolt that holds the dip stick to it on the 3S - there's only 2 nuts that hold this on, just take it from your 3S and use it on your 5S water pump.​

5SFE Parts:

1.) - Block: 98+ are the best because of their stronger casting, but any 5S block will work. It's a good idea to replace the freeze plugs - the 98 5S block calls for eight of OEM Part# 96411-43500 - $3.85; and one of OEM Part# 96411-44000 - $3.85.

Here's a comparison of the 98+ 5S block and the 3S block - you can see the reinforced area on the water pump corner(pre 98 5S blocks will look like the 3S block):



Block Prep:

A.) - Machine work: You will want the block bored and honed - stock bore is 87mm, most people will bore it to 87.5mm. Make sure the block is decked and straight, but take off as little material as needed to make it straight.

B.) - Passenger side axle carrier: The axle carrier is the bracket that supports the passenger axle as it extends out of the transmission and toward the passenger wheel. Some 5SFE blocks will already have the correct holes tapped for you to bolt on the 3S axle carrier - if yours does, no modifications are needed, just bolt it on and your ready to go. If your 5S block doesn't have the holes tapped from the factory, you will see the raised section of the block where they would have been - you will need to mark, drill, and tap those raised spots to install your 3S axle carrier.

C.) - Alternator bracket: This is the same as above - your 5S block may have come from the factory with the correct holes already drilled and tapped for the 3S alternator bracket - if not, you will need to mark, drill, and tap for them. If you do have to tap for your alternator bracket, you will also need to get the OEM studs(2) from Toyota to screw in your 5S block - OEM Part# 92122-61025 - $1.50. Your 3S nuts will thread on these to hold the bracket in place as it is on the 3S block.

These are pictures of the holes in the 3S block, and what needs to be drilled and tapped in the 5S block:

3S Block - Red arrows are the axle carrier holes; Green arrows are the 2 alternator bracket holes the 5S will need to have tapped:


5S Block - Red arrows are the axle carrier hole locations; Green arrows are the 2 alternator bracket holes that need to be tapped:


Tapping the axle carrier holes:

D.) - Oil dip stick fitting: The 5S block needs the 3S dip stick and dip stick fitting - you can pull the 5S dip stick guide out of the block and just insert a new 3S one. As mentioned above - OEM Part# 90405-10034 - $4.80

E.) - Oil feed hole for the counter balance shafts: Most all newer 5S blocks(Celica blocks don't) have balance shafts in the oil pan - this is what the strange gear on the crankshaft turns. If you don't have balance shafts you can skip this step, if you do, then you need to remove the balance shaft assembly. When you do, there is an oil feed hole that needs to be plugged to maintain proper oil pressure. Dedicated-Matt recommends tapping the oil hole with a 8x1.25 tap, then use a stainless steel socket head bolt with locktite and a new cold start injector crush washer.

This is a picture of what you need to tap and fill - this is the only oil feel hole on the bottom of the block:

2.) - Pistons: Several options here, I went with the ATS 8.3:1 stroker postons made by Wiseco.

3.) - Water pump: You will want to replace the water pump anyway since you are building a new motor - get the 91-93 5SFE MR2 water pump to avoid any teeth/gear incompatibility issues. OEM Part# 16100-79135-83 - $86.66

4.) - Flywheel Bolts: These are needed because you are using a 5S crankshaft. - $23 HERE

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
5.) - Crankshaft: Most 5S cranks have an odd gear on them that spins the balance shafts - these balance shafts aren't used so you can knock that gear off the crank with a hammer. The gear will look like it's a part of the crank, but it will come off pretty easy if you hit it - be careful not to damage the crank when you do this. If you are using 5S rods you just need to have the crank polished and have the machine shop make sure it is in good condition. If you are going to use 3S rods, you need to have a machine shop polish the main journals and turn down the rod journals to fit the 3S rods. It's easiest to just take the shop your rods so they can measure and turn them to fit the rods you have and the recommended clearances for those rods.

6.) - Oil Cooler, hard pipes out of the water pump, and 5S water hoses that connect the oil cooler to those hard pipes: If your 5S block had an oil cooler on it you can reuse both the oil cooler and hard pipes. If you get a 5S block without the oil cooler, you can get the oil cooler from pull-a-part for $5.10 and the hard pipes out of the water pump for $6.80 - the pull-a-part here had about 10 of them to choose from. Order new hoses that connect the oil cooler to the hard pipes - OEM Part# 16264-74101 - $5.92; and OEM Part# 16267-74081 - $5.17. NOTE: The 5S oil cooler bolts to the 5S block with a nut - if your 5S block didn't have an oil cooler, you wont have the stud to screw that nut onto to hold the oil cooler in place, but the threaded hole that stud went in will be there. The fix: the 3S oil cooler is held on with 4 bolts, one of them is shorter than the rest and it will work perfect to bolt the 5S oil cooler to the threaded hole in your 5S block.

Here's a picture of the oil cooler, hardlines and water hoses that connect them(MR2 Josh's engine):



You can also use the 5S heat shield for the water hoses(if the donar block has one - some don't):

This shows the differesnce between the 3S hard lines and the 5S hard lines:

3S: Green arrow feeds block, but the 5S block doesn't have this water feed so this isn't needed or used; Red feeds the oil cooler; Blue are the pipes that you will need for the stroker - notice they match up to the blue arrows on the 5S pipes.


5S: Red arrows feed the oil cooler; Blue arrows match up to the hoses you need to connect to your existing 3S lines.



Non spacific:

1.) Rods - you can use 3S rods by having your 5S crank machined to fit the 3S rod journals - options include stock, shot peened stock, Eagle(best bang for the buck), Crower, Pauter, etc), or you can use 5S rods - the stock 5S rods are too weak to be used, but you can get upgraded 5S rods from Pauter and Crower. If you use 5S rods you will still want the crank polished to be sure it is in good condition.

2.) Head gasket - There are a few options here, the easiest is to get the ATS 5SGTE head gasket since all the coolant passages match up and it is plug and play - $160 HERE. You can also get the OEM 5S head gasket as it is MLS and very strong but you will need to modify the coolant passages on the block or gasket to get enough flow to be safe if you use the OEM gasket - OEM Part# 11115-74120 - $55.42​
 

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The second pic labeled 3s block is an early 5s block. But it has the 3s style open deck... Where did that pic come from? Is it a RAV 4 3s block?

The balance shaft drive gear on the crank can just be removed with a hammer.
And you will need a 5S rear main seal.
 

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I want to point out that this 5S block is a 98 Celica block and not a Camry block. It has no balance shafts from the factory.

98+ 5S Block:
 

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Kind of curious on the ATS head gasket. I bought a 93 block hoping the coolant passages would match, but after opening the engine up, there wasn't a match between the 3sgte head gasket and the 93 celica block.

Would the ATS racing gasket be the answer to the mismatch?

Thanks
 

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Sticky this summbich.
 

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all the questions being asked have been covered......but finding them takes forever.


i dont think anyone consolidated everything into one simple and easy to follow thread.
 

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ATS_Scott said:
The second pic labeled 3s block is an early 5s block. But it has the 3s style open deck... Where did that pic come from? Is it a RAV 4 3s block?

The balance shaft drive gear on the crank can just be removed with a hammer.
And you will need a 5S rear main seal.
Some of the Mr2 5Sge blocks have the same coolant pattern on them. Mostly 91's
 

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ATS_Scott said:
The second pic labeled 3s block is an early 5s block. But it has the 3s style open deck... Where did that pic come from? Is it a RAV 4 3s block?
Dedicated-Matt said:
Some of the Mr2 5Sge blocks have the same coolant pattern on them. Mostly 91's
Correct, but there is something weird about that picture. Look at the freeze plug area around cylinder #3, it looks almost like it was machined after casting. The normal 91 MR2 5SFE blocks are not like that.

Aaron
 
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