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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Consider this:
These are all SAE J1349 ratings, and are all VVT-i based motors. SAE J1349 requires automakers to test engines with actual equipment (not simulated intake/exhaust systems) and use the required fuel octane rating. The 1MZ/3MZ/2GR all require 87 octane, but recommend 91. Because of this:

1MZ, 87 octane:
190hp @ 5600rpm
197lb-ft @ 4400rpm

Extrapolated 1MZ ratings using 91+ octane (using 3MZ data and adjusted for displacement):
201hp @ 5600rpm
211lb-ft @ 4400rpm

Loss: 11hp, 14lb-ft
Avg %: -6.45%

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3MZ, 87 octane (Camry):
210hp @ 5600rpm
220lb-ft @ 3600rpm

3MZ, 91 octane (ES330):
218hp @ 5600rpm
236lb-ft @ 3600rpm

Loss: 8hp, 16lb-ft
Avg %: -5.5%

Most of us N/A guys strive to make more power from N/A engines. Well, knock sensors hinder that effort when you use a lower grade fuel.
 

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With headers and a Turbo muffler, no cat, I can absolutely tell the difference running 87 octane, ESPECIALLY in warm weather.

I can get away with it in the winter, as it's not as obvious, but in the summer it's a dog. I don't often run 91 octane (don't really have it here), I just go for the 93, as my only other choices are 87 and 89. Sometimes I'll mix it between fillups if I'm doing mostly highway driving for a trip.
 

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They are piezo devices. I'm sure it's possible to lower their output with one or two resistors. The trick is to not adversely affect the frequency response. OR, perhaps modifiy that to suit your needs.
 

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'94 1mz-fe A541-E with good knock sensors, high octane


'94 1mz-fe A541-E with bad knock sensors, high octane


Knock sensors are an across the board thing, which is. :(


I always recommened them to run whatever doesn't cause it to ping & drive like blah - & that they should run higher octane the majority of their lives. A couple tanks of 87 aint killing anything, but to me, that's not really a long term solution.
Keep in mind I don't drive one every day too. ;)
 
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