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Discussion Starter #1
i read the sticky but i have questions. how does it look like at the rear after new cables are installed. how do i disconnect the cable from the rear? where can i get the cables. and those metal things. thanks
 

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deviantv1ral said:
and how does it "freeze" if its just regular cables pulling in the hydrolics right? please reply
IIRC the factory cables ride inside a sleeve that is somewhat sealed at each end. The rubber seals break down over time and let moisture in and the cable gets stuck inside the sleeve.

You can pull the cable hard enough with the lever to overcome the "freeze" resistance, but the return springs are not strong enough to overcome the "freeze" resistance and go back to the initial position, leaving the lever on the caliper (where the cable hooks up) still pulled by tension activating the e-brake mechism.

The e-brake can also freeze by the mechanism in ide the caliper getting stuck (requiring rebuilt calipers) but this is much, much less common. Almost always the ebrake cable itself.

just had to remove the pin on one side of mine last night to get the brakes to stop from dragging.

I have heard of people putting a strong solvent down between the cable and sleeve letting it sit for a few days to un-freeze them, but have heard also other try this with no success.
 

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Shadetree mechanic
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To answer one of your questions

If you scroll down to the end of EricS brake cable page:
http://padandwheels.com/mr2/parkingbrake/parkingbrake.html
you will see how the rubber cover decays and breaks apart over time, letting dirt and water get in between the cable and sheath. Water freezing in the winter and dirt causes the cable to seize.
 

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I had one brake right at the end of the sleeve many years ago. It was rusted at that point like it had sat in water or something.
 
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