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Discussion Starter #1
My car has no heat whatsoever.
The heater core is not blocked, none of the other cooling lines are blocked, and I swapped in a new Denso thermostat (that t/stat was a project!). Same result. The car does not overheat or leave puddles anywhere. Should I go ahead and order a water pump? My engine has 60k miles on it. Any sage advice would be welcome.
 

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Is the radiator return hose (in the frunk, on the right side facing forward) staying cold or getting hot? If it is staying cold, this means you do not have coolant circulation.

I've seen this situation on another 2GR swap. The owner went through kind of the same process that you are doing. Finally we resolved his issue using a vacuum fill tool.

There's a thermostat bypass line for the heater. It runs in the valley. It has a purge port sort of above the motor mount. See if you can crack that open and let any air out of there. I don't know if you are able to elevate your coolant fill neck. It helps sometimes if you can raise the filler neck up by a few inches while you crack open the purge ports.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgive my stupid question (and I love that you were so quick to respond...awesome!) :
umm....where is this valley where the purge valve lives?
 

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The valley between the banks. Under the intake manifold. But the purge valve is on the RH side, right on top next to the intake manifold runners.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Status:
(1) My radiator is stone cold on the passenger side and stone cold on the drivers side.
(2) No heat from the cabin heater.
(3) Coolant does come out the purge valve. Which I accidentally lost in the valley of doom and recovered....
(4) Coolant comes out of the upper purge valve on my Mishimoto rad as well.
I'm thinking of dropping it off at my local Toyota dealer. Really fed up at this point..I do really appreciate the help, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I still don't have a/c, but yeah that looks right. Keep in mind this car has never had heat since it was
" professionally" swapped. I am willing to bet they did not vacuum bleed this car.
 

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I doubt that your pump's impeller has stripped from the shaft but you never know. Probably it is not priming itself because of air trapped at the inlet. I'm trying to think of who near Everett Wash can bada-bing-bada-boom vacuum fill your coolant system and get you on your way. I doubt that a trip to the dealer would be effective. You need one of these things:

https://www.amazon.com/FJC-43610-Radiator-Coolant-Vacuum/dp/B00804HWOU/

It does require a compressed air supply to function. It does not need a whole lot of air. If you don't have a compressor, probably you could do it with a 5-gal portable compressed air tank, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FW7W54/

And you can fill that up at the gas station or anywhere else that has a good compressor.

That's altogether less than the typical diagnostic charge at the dealership and it will come in handy again next time you need to drain and fill your coolant system again.
 

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I had a hard time getting mine to flow. There's many how to videos on youtube. Squeeze the hoses with cap off, constantly bled the front radiator top bleed and engine top bleed. Then let it cool and start over a few more times. Eventually I got the air out. I didn't know about vacumm refill kits though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good news: It finally worked. You have to rev the engine, to move sufficient quantities of coolant.
I never had to do that with my old 3s-gte. In my case , no vacuum tool was required. Happy days.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And that's why this board is awesome, Mr. Swansational...hit me up if you need an extra wrenching hand or some parts.. I have spare turbo parts up the yang.
 
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