MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

A good look around the 3sgte. Tune up

3K views 43 replies 8 participants last post by  Trak Turtle 
#1 · (Edited)
Miss the days when FB was not an available medium and forums were our primary platform for sharing information.
In that spirit and coz this is work I'd like to refer back to I'm starting this thread.

Over the last 3 years, both sides of the engine were thoroughly visited. Had installed the lsd tranny and clutch a couple of years ago with all new seal on that side, serviced the entire timing belt section and oil pump shortly after.
Taking from there, I'm on to the front, top and rear now to complete the sphere around the engine.
Since compression across all 4 cylinders is as good as factory and valve clearances look good, I'm not lifting the head.

Plan for this round of work -
  • Fresh turbo
  • Brakes
  • Suspension with revalving those track stiff Teins
  • Valve clearances with stem seals
  • A/C and heater core
  • Basic body facelift
I'll.post up progress so far -




Vertical and horizontal plays seemed within specs but pretty sure it's seals were beginning to piss


The downpipes are in good nick, was considering the Berk dp but didn't see enough worth in it considering I'm sticking to the stock setup with the exception of the Phoenix Intercooler.


Fresh tie rod bearings



New ball joints all around


Hfh looked pretty good but its gotta go


It's pipe needs some restoring, Toyota doesn't make new ones anymore


Gave the block a good elbow, ready for paint


Thats the 11th shipment of parts
 
See less See more
10
#3 ·




Intake valves look pretty


Gave the intake a good clean


Cams off


Loving this job of adjusting clearances and stem seals, very engaging and clean work


All the tools you'll ever need to get in and out if the stem seals job -
- Parallel type grip scissors
- A piece of pipe to protect the stem
- I made a pcs socket but a 16 or 17 mm spark plug socket works a charm
- Some plastic between the spring and socket to turn in the keeoers
- I also used a 10mm socket to press the seals, it's id grips the seal lip od perfectly, so there's no room for the seal to not seat straight
 
#4 · (Edited)



Pushed an inspection cam through the exhaust manifold, think I got a peep into 6 of them, looking good with the exception of one



^ The leaking one and the single reason I decided to do the seals, am glad I did coz they done their time in there, had hardened up significantly.

Should be done with the stem seals & clearances this weekend to start turbo installation.
The Teins arrived a few days ago, revalved and looking new.

Long live the 3sgte, amongst man's finest creations !
 
#9 · (Edited)
Paluce, benckj, Ajh23, thx guys. I got the emAil subscription wrong so sorry for the late reply.

Benckj, i had done the entire timing belt section a couple years ago with the exception of cam seals, idler pulley 2 and WP, replacing cam seals coz I pulled the cams and pulley now, the water pump is still looking very good so leaving it there.

Ajh23, mostly wd40, diesel with 600 grit scotch brite and brass brush, finally cleaned it with paint thinner/reducer to make it ready for high heat paint. Yet to paint.

Haven't made any progress the last 10 days, was traveling but am done with the valve seals and torqued the cams back up.

The 2 exhaust valves that had carbon built up I sat with for 4 hours, created a longer flexible stem to hold the valves, dropped the pistons by an inch or so to allow some room and lapped the valves mostly by rotation. Coz I used the inspection cam, I could see the progress, let some wd40 drop through the top of stem, could see it travel into the head and in between the seats. Physically felt both valves smoothen out gradually. I'd lightly oiled the rope, the carbon stuck to it and was pulled with. I'm guessing I would've found some success in bringing these valves back into spec wrt clearances and seating them better.

Will get to work this weekend and post up guys, thx n cheers.
 
#13 ·
Just for other lurkers I repacked the rear tie rod bearings by removing the rubber boot and inserting wheel bearing grease. Don't believe this is a maintenance item in the BGB but think its good practice to do. Pics below.

Obviously, if the rose joint is worn from lack of grease it will need replacement. The re-packing with grease will reduce wear and its life expectancy.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Good practice benckj, as long as you are sure about how to get that boot lock back on ��
It can be tricky and there's a straight forward way to get it done. Anyone pulling the boot, don't wrestle with that lock when putting it back on.
Thx for sharing, I'll grease both up proper
 
#16 ·
Im almost done with the tune up but never got around to posting. Will try and be regular hereon.
Calipers needed attention
 

Attachments

#17 ·
The Tiens were at 4 and 8 spring rates, the car was like driving a brick.
Dropped spring rates and had the dampers revalved. It sticks to the ground a lot more, difference in the drive is remarkable. Was using the stock mounts for some cushion, they are trash, fitted the Tien plates, suspension is silent and solid with all ball joints new. First time in years the car isn't squeaking around.
 

Attachments

#26 · (Edited)
Removed cat, there was marginal pitting on both sides of the pipe. I couldn't take it to a milling machine so sort of " milled " at home by hand. It took me around 2 days to get rid of pitting and to get the surface flush. The toughest job so far in the tuneup. Was well worth it though.
Was also a good idea to tap the threads for the shields' bolts. Tapping cured them of kilos of rust.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top