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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No real progress for a while, just snapped some pictures while I was at the shop.

here's a pic of my motors, my blown up old 4agze on the right, headless, and my blown up 7a on the left, with the g head stuck on top of it and the 20v header hung on.


Here's a closer shot of the 20v blacktop header. It hasn't been modded to bolt on all the way yet, so it's just hanging there.


A picture of my w2a IC and my sc14 in the background, that's prolly never going on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's a pick of my two e-series trans, soon to put together into one.
corolla e-51 on the left, LSD e-153 on the right.


Also a pic of the 7afe head and intake manifold, $60 if anyone wants them, probably going to have to recycle them.
 

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so what's your plan? 7age w/BT 20v headers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
7agze with blacktop 20v header. You need the 20v header cuz the 16v won't clear the oil pan on the 7a, it curves inward too much. I got the blacktop cuz the the primaries are a little bigger, and on a 7agze, you don't have to mod them to clear the starter, unlike the 7age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE:::
Started disassembly of my old 4agze and the 7afe. Need the 4agze pistons, and the crankshaft as well as at least one rod is being repaced in the 7a.

She sits pretty high with no motor in her. "Raked" look lol.



Monza catback, just just though I'd take a pic



My old 4agze sans head, these are the pistons that will be in the 7agze, don't look bad at all for having 180k miles + on them

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the oil pan off the ol' 4agze



Here's why I this motor blew up two years ago, the bearing on the right is a normal rod bearing with little wear, the one on the left is the top bearing from rod #2, both replaced the week before to keep her going a little longer.



Here is what's left of the bottom bearing for #2

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lower oil pan off the 7afe



removing the crank pulley from the 7a, I used a quarter to stop the press from going down into the threaded part, it fit perfeclty in the hole in the crank pulley.



Crank pulley, upper oil pan, and all the main bearings removed from the 7a

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
New 7a crank and bearings, $155.



Here's where I run into trouble. Trying to get the timing gear off, couldn't do it with the steering wheel puller.



It just broke the lower lip off the gear, even when I took a propane torch to it, it won't budge. Damage circled in red.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got to take off the timing gear to take off the oil pump to replace the crankshaft.
 

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Re: Here's where I run into trouble...

I notice in your set-up that your puller isn't centered over the gear. That will cause problems.

These things come off easier after a liberally applying penetrating oil (front, back and around the keyway) and allowing some soak time, before pulling as squarely as possible, usually by hand, once they are loose. If it starts to bind, then it's not square (I know it's round). Also try working them back and forth on the shaft after they are a bit loose, in order to get the key fully aligned.

A carefull touch with slide hammer puller set-up might also work, since the engine is out of the car. Since your's is probably now a bit tweaked on the shaft, it might also help to lightly tap it back on in order to square/loosen it up again, but don't hit the end of the crankshaft.
 

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When I replaced the oil pump and rod bearings on my smallport I couldn't get the lower gear of. Engine still in car. I ended up cutting a slot on each side between to ribs and pried it apart with a screwdriver. A new gear was $20 from Oreilly.

Where did you get your 7af crank? I am tossing around the idea of a 7age in case the smallport ever lets go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
There was no way to set the puller up so that the arms would be across from eachother because of clearance issues wit the oil pump, that is why it was off center. I think I may start cutting on the oil pump so that I can get the arms on straight. I might end up having to cut it though.
 

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since the gear is NFG now drill it then give it a wack with a centre punch and hammer. the drill hole(or holes) will weaken it enough to let the hammering break it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I got the crank out. I figured out that I don't even need to take the timing gear off because I'm removing the crank. By smacking the crap out of it, the oil pump dislodged from the block and I was able to remove it all in one assembly of crap I don't need anymore. Hurray!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Kragens is quoting me $71 for the 4age oil pump and $54 for the timing gear, with corporate discount. For the 7a oil pump, the want $130, and the timing gear is not available :eek: . I've gotta talk to aaron.
 

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Krawhonow? You need the 7AFE oil pump and the 4AGE gear:

13521-16010 - 16.93 - Lower timing gear
15100-16040 - 109.12 - Oil pump, '93-'94 7A-E

I just reused my existing 7A oil pump. The donor engine had low miles and was very clean inside so I didn't feel too bad about it.
 
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