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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
The rear driver's side lower control arm mounting location is the main obstacle. The 4T65-E HD (when hanging in an SW20) has it's differential where the 2 has it's suspension, which requires moving the mounting point lower by an as yet undetermined distance. At least a few inches. Figuring out how much it would then need to be moved inboard (if at all) to keep proper geometry. We all know the last thing these cars need is to be more twitchy, especially after gaining around 100lbs over the top of the rear wheels. Trax: I'll PM you.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Just clearing out my garage today (where my 2 has sat for the last 2 years) to make room to get back into this project. Just watched Chris Bulen's videos on youtube and realized that he has made some good progress in the last few years without a lift. I have been trying to get a shop built ($$$) so I can get another lift, which is what I've been using as an excuse to ignore my own project until I succeed in getting the $ together. I'm not the engineering mind that he is, but I should be able to make some more progress using jack stands & a trans jack like he did. So...time to stop being lazy and get back on it since it's summer and my 2 has been lonely for far to long! I'll get it all cleared out (2 years in this new place and the garage caught most of the stuff from my old shop) and move my '66 Mustang project outside for the summer so my 2 can have all of my attention. Once I've got everything ready for work, I'll start making regular updates. Sorry to all for the delay. Time to get her back on the road!
 

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A lift would be wonderful and nice, but I agree, its not necessary. On my website at mv8r.com, I have a newsletter you can sign up for. The first 1 or 2 issues cover the major tools needed, such as the big orange trans jack from Harbor freight that I use. THis is a wonderful jack as it has a large flat steel platform that you can attach wooden cradle that matches the bottom of your engine/trans. It has knobs to adjust the tilt of the motor/trans from side to side, or front to back.

Lastly, it has a nice pump handle that swings around so you can reach it from either side, or swing it out of the way.

My project has been sitting for years now on the tallest jack stands HF sells. I haven't had to change the car's elevation since I put it on the stands. The HF trans jack I use is low enough to put the engine/trans on and roll under the car anytime I need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Last time I had my 2 on stands I only had the rear in the air while I removed the 3S-GTE and the nose was touching the ground. It was a tight fit, but worked. Having the entire car up would be better. How high do your stands reach? I want one of those jacks, too. I've got some shopping to do!
 

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I'm using the 23" tall stands.

Remember that it will depend on how tall your engine is, sitting on your custom cradle that you add to the flat steel platform of the jack.

In my case, its a Northstar sitting on a wooden platform made of 2x4's sitting on the HF jack.

You can gain additional height if you place the stands on top of some kind of spacer, like large flat pieces of steel, or blocks of some kind. Make sure the blocks are large enough and flat enough. You don't want the car shifting around while you are under it! I do NOT recommend wooden blocks.

You want these stands (not the smaller ones): http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-69596-8820.html

You want this jack (not the smaller one)
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-low-profile-transmission-jack-4075.html

I also use a cherry picker sometimes to move the engine/trans around, but you don't need it except when joining the trans to the engine or taking them apart.
 

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Oh yeah, if you need the HF coupon (gives 20% off anything) let me know. I strongly recommend waiting for the jack and jack stands to go on sale, then using the 20% coupon on top of that. I do this all the time when I want an expensive item.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Looked at HF's website and found some 12 ton stands that reach 30". Since the jack reaches 31" it should all work out. I can't remember how tall the LS4 is, but I'll measure it all out as soon as I get my 2 ready for more work. It would be nice if my engine can slide under the rear of my 2 without needing to use my engine hoist to lift it. The jack has a minimum height of 5.75 inches, so let's hope the LS4 is less than 24" tall!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Looks like it's roughly 29" with my LQ4 IM installed, & MAYBE 24" at the valve covers if I remove the oil filler neck. I may need to place a few 2x6 blocks under each side so I can clear the water neck on the other end (the timing cover & water pump w/neck is one piece). It should all work out! Now to finish cleaning my garage out so I can get back on this and get it done!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
cbulen said:
Oh yeah, if you need the HF coupon (gives 20% off anything) let me know. I strongly recommend waiting for the jack and jack stands to go on sale, then using the 20% coupon on top of that. I do this all the time when I want an expensive item.
If you have one (printable or one I can let them scan from my phone), that would be great! $299 for the jack & $89 per pair of stands...20% off would definitely be great! I'll PM you my email.
 

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Ok I will try to dig some paper ones up. Also, you might try signing up at HF's website. THey periodically send me 20% coupons via email.

I received your PM. You are more than welcome to stop by my house and check out Project MV8R. Seeing it in person will help you get a much better understanding of the tech details of the project. I can explain every aspect as well in detail. You might consider taking videoing or photos when you visit.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I have the stands & jack now! I'll be getting my 2 back in the air for some serious sub-frame modification prior to using it for a jig to fabricate a new tubular style piece. I'm still aiming to also fabricate a cradle setup that will hold the engine/trans and itself mount to the car & sub-frame. I plan on making a dolly system that the cradle can attach to so dropping everything will be easier. I'll describe more as I make progress.
 

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blueblur said:
I have the stands & jack now! I'll be getting my 2 back in the air for some serious sub-frame modification prior to using it for a jig to fabricate a new tubular style piece. I'm still aiming to also fabricate a cradle setup that will hold the engine/trans and itself mount to the car & sub-frame. I plan on making a dolly system that the cradle can attach to so dropping everything will be easier. I'll describe more as I make progress.
How is it going?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Slow for the moment. Working on clearing more space to work as well as trying to get work on other vehicles done so I can clear my schedule. Once I'm back into working on my 2, I'll be living in my garage and not working on anything else. Gotta be sure to clear all of the distractions out first so I can focus!
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I still need to finish the other projects I have & get back on my 2. I've also been looking around for a fellow 2 enthusiast that might want to help me get the rear subframe sorted (& thereby gain personal insight into a potential LS4 MR2 project of their own where the help would be reciprocated) so I can speed this up. No prior fab work experience needed, but simply spare time, close proximity, & a love for these types of projects. There's a good chance that this first "mule" will be the first of at least a couple of these after I finally get a new shop put up. A solid jig put together for making the right subframe & engine mounts will give this swap a potential length of 1 month worth of weekends at most. Anybody in the Pacific NW interested?
 

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blueblur said:
I still need to finish the other projects I have & get back on my 2. I've also been looking around for a fellow 2 enthusiast that might want to help me get the rear subframe sorted (& thereby gain personal insight into a potential LS4 MR2 project of their own where the help would be reciprocated) so I can speed this up. No prior fab work experience needed, but simply spare time, close proximity, & a love for these types of projects. There's a good chance that this first "mule" will be the first of at least a couple of these after I finally get a new shop put up. A solid jig put together for making the right subframe & engine mounts will give this swap a potential length of 1 month worth of weekends at most. Anybody in the Pacific NW interested?
I wish you lived closer :cry:
 
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