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looking over it again, dont you think you could raise the engine a couple more inches? it looks a little lower then needed? or is that just the pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Thanks. Today was SO encouraging. I'll be spending time tomorrow designing and maybe starting to build the cradle I'm envisioning that will make dropping the engine and trans a 1 hour affair. I'll call around on Monday to get prices on having the axles cut and re-splined. After that, not much more $ needed except for a fuel pump designed for a returnless fuel system. I hope tomorrow goes as well as today did.

Some of the angles made it look lower than it really was. Look at the shot from the pass side of the front of the engine. I could go higher, but not much if I want my axles to last. They're just about perfectly lined up where I'm planning on hanging it.
 

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with my project, I discovered that I could move the engine a LOT further forward if I removed a lot of the crap that is bolted to the MR2 firewall--fuel filler pipe, heat sheild, fiberglass, brake lines, etc.

Once I moved the engine forward, I found that no cutting of the car was needed. Custom fuel filler pipe required and re-routed brake lines, re-routed heater core pipes, and so on.

Have you tried that?

Also, do you have room to move the engine towards the right side of the car? (mabye after you move it forward?)
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
So far I have not moved the filler tube or the heater core pipes, but I plan to. It looks like I'll gain at least 2" by doing that. I'd like to figure out the filler soon to keep it away from the exhaust. I did remove a little sheetmetal from the bottom of the rear firewall for exhaust clearance, and I'm flattening out the passenger side strut tower for extra clearance at the pulleys. I'll try to remember to take some pictures later today.
 

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I cut most of the "webbing" (or whatever its called) off of the inside of the right shock tower, just under where the engine lid prop rod plugs into that webbing. In my case, it helped clear the rear cylinder head and a sensor.

In my case, moving the engine forward gave me all the pulley and belt clearance I needed. It might help you too.

Curious, what is the overall width of your drive train, as measured from the furthest right point on the crank pulley (possibly the crank pulley bolt head) to the left most edge of the transaxle?

The 3S/E153 combo is 36 inches if memory serves. The N*/F40 is 37', IIRC
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I believe it's 34 1/2". The trans is a little under 11" wide from where it bolts to the engine to the spot where a mount can bolt to it. Makes for easier packaging.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I didn't have a lot of time for the car this past weekend, but I did a little trimming around where I felt I could use a little extra breathing room.
First:

Then:

Up next:

I want to remove as much as possible to get the engine mounted up, then reinstall it all (or replace with new material) according to the space that's left. I'll likely make the fuel filler be under the engine lid somewhere, since the front exhaust manifold sits so close to the stock filler pipe location. After the engine is mounted, I'll take pics of the leftover clearance and see where to proceed after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks. I've been busy with work, and only having one lift has been a problem. I'll be posting info and pics with any progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Not yet. It sits awaiting some free time. Right now my focus is on keeping my business alive, so fun projects are on the back burner for at least a few more weeks if not a month. It WILL get done, but isn't a priority right now. As soon as I get the time I'll be moving forward with it and posting pics and details. Nobody wants it done more than I. :thumbup
 

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I actually had this same platform idea for my MK1. Didn't have the means or resources to do it as well as I didn't want to hack up a car I put so much time and money into. I hope this works out for you though because the LSX platform of engines are stout and have a lot of aftermarket stuff out there. Would this happen to be a DOD equipped engine? That was one thing about the LS4 I was 50/50 on. Putting in a different cam would require a fair amount of work and research to get rid of the DOD system. But on the other hand if you could wire it up such as the MK1 ZE motor guys do the S/C clutch you could turn your car into a 4cly whenver you wanted. It has more than enough power to push around a MK1 or 2 in 4cyl. In stock form though it will be a beast with over 300whp once you get rid of the power steering and throw a intake and free flowing exhaust on.
 

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ThatDylanGuy said:
Would this happen to be a DOD equipped engine? That was one thing about the LS4 I was 50/50 on. Putting in a different cam would require a fair amount of work and research to get rid of the DOD system. But on the other hand if you could wire it up such as the MK1 ZE motor guys do the S/C clutch you could turn your car into a 4cly whenver you wanted. It has more than enough power to push around a MK1 or 2 in 4cyl. In stock form though it will be a beast with over 300whp once you get rid of the power steering and throw a intake and free flowing exhaust on.
The DOD is incredibly easy to get rid of. A cam swap, the lifters, and the valley cover and it's gone. 300whp is probably a cam swap too, and I hope you mean the intake manifold itself, cause the stock LS4 piece is a MAJOR restriction.
 

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Guess I'll put my foot in my mouth for not doing the research before saying anything. And I wasn't talking about the manifold but you are right.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
ThatDylanGuy said:
I actually had this same platform idea for my MK1. Didn't have the means or resources to do it as well as I didn't want to hack up a car I put so much time and money into. I hope this works out for you though because the LSX platform of engines are stout and have a lot of aftermarket stuff out there. Would this happen to be a DOD equipped engine? That was one thing about the LS4 I was 50/50 on. Putting in a different cam would require a fair amount of work and research to get rid of the DOD system. But on the other hand if you could wire it up such as the MK1 ZE motor guys do the S/C clutch you could turn your car into a 4cly whenver you wanted. It has more than enough power to push around a MK1 or 2 in 4cyl. In stock form though it will be a beast with over 300whp once you get rid of the power steering and throw a intake and free flowing exhaust on.
Like Pablo pointed out, deleting the DOD feature isn't difficult. I'm choosing to wait to use the HP tuner first to fiddle with it to see if I like it first. I've already swapped the stock IM out for an LQ4 IM. From the research I've done it appears to flow similar to an LS6 IM. It's ugly, but it was cheap and will better work with my plans for a turbo later with it's longer runners for better low end prior to spooling up. I'm shooting for a larger turbo that'll hopefully come on a little later to allow for some semblance of traction first and be capable of flowing decent air up to 7K RPM. Figuring out how to utilize the DOD alongside the boost will be interesting. Some folks with LS4 cars say they can hardly tell when the DOD is switching, but I'm sure when it switches in mine and the boost gauge drops by half I'll know fairly easily. It's likely that I'll ultimately remove the DOD function, but I figure it's worth a try. LS4 cars see a couple of MPG improvement in their heavier cars: I'm hoping for at least 5, maybe 10. I can't see not driving this car literally every chance I get, so it may come in handy. Nobody's more excited than me to get this project driving (it'll never truly be "finished" :smile: ), so expect to hear more on this as I get the time to devote to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
OK. Closing my shop down at the end of the month, so the only thing on the agenda is finishing up the 2. Stay tuned.....
 
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