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I mean, the air box sensor connected to the THA pin on the ECU doesn't appear to be wired in. Also, none of the GEN4 intake pipes you buy online have a hole for the sensor to go in. Only the filter inlet, turbo outlet, port for the BOV recirc, port for the valve cover breather vent and port for the idle valve intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I mean, the air box sensor connected to the THA pin on the ECU doesn't appear to be wired in. Also, none of the GEN4 intake pipes you buy online have a hole for the sensor to go in. Only the filter inlet, turbo outlet, port for the BOV recirc, port for the valve cover breather vent and port for the idle valve intake.
Got the new sensor in and everything put back together, runs the exact same. The obd1 didn't have any codes really dont know what to check now
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'm out of ideas sorry.
70258

Decided to check the resistance in my crank sensor and got this, another fourm said that the spec should be between 1600-2700 could this small of a difference cause that much of an issue?
 

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Does it change with crank rotation? I hear these things are very sensitive.

Based on some experience with this sensors wiring the engine will not even start if the sensor is not happy. Earthing the sensor wire when you pinch it in the AC bracket makes it do some odd stuff. It will inject fuel but not produce spark. Any chance there is dirt or metal filings on the sensor? I also hear from one Caldina owners source these sensors fail a lot. But not heard about this from the many many GEN4 swaps done in the USA.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Does it change with crank rotation? I hear these things are very sensitive.

Based on some experience with this sensors wiring the engine will not even start if the sensor is not happy. Earthing the sensor wire when you pinch it in the AC bracket makes it do some odd stuff. It will inject fuel but not produce spark. Any chance there is dirt or metal filings on the sensor? I also hear from one Caldina owners source these sensors fail a lot. But not heard about this from the many many GEN4 swaps done in the USA.
I'm not sure if it's got metal shavings etc but I'll check tomorrow and let you know
 

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I've got a bit of running about to do early today but if you need any voltages or resistances checked I can get readings from mine.
Had a "shakedown" drive yesterday and it's purring like a panther and not throwing any codes.
LMK what you want and I'll do my best for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I've got a bit of running about to do early today but if you need any voltages or resistances checked I can get readings from mine.
Had a "shakedown" drive yesterday and it's purring like a panther and not throwing any codes.
LMK what you want and I'll do my best for ya.
If you could just check the resistance on your crank sensor that would be awesome, I'll have to think about any other sensors and let you know. But I really appreciate you and GDII you both have helped a lot even though it's not running right the list of possible things is quite a lot smaller thanks to your guys:)
 

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I got a reading of 1256 initially. put a socket on the crank and turned it. the reading would drop to about 800 and spike at about 1500 then settle back to 1250. I tried turning the crank a little at a time and there was no real spot that changed the reading while sitting. i did see numbers as low as 600 and as high as 1800 turning by hand. in the end though it always seemed to settle at about 1250

I will note that I wore out the leads on my good multi meter and just bought a 20 buck unit as I cannot get new leads locally. It seems accurate but cannot confirm as to how accurate until my new leads arrive from amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Does it change with crank rotation? I hear these things are very sensitive.

Based on some experience with this sensors wiring the engine will not even start if the sensor is not happy. Earthing the sensor wire when you pinch it in the AC bracket makes it do some odd stuff. It will inject fuel but not produce spark. Any chance there is dirt or metal filings on the sensor? I also hear from one Caldina owners source these sensors fail a lot. But not heard about this from the many many GEN4 swaps done in the USA.
The only metal shavings/dirt is on the back of the sensor as well as it being cracked I didnt know it was, would the metal shavings on the back cause an issue?
70307
 

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Probably not but having it clean would be best. But that broken mounting point will not help the sensor locate properly or stay in place with engine vibration. Needs a new one. I feel this is your problem. ECU can't figure out where the engine is so it's sparking at random times.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Probably not but having it clean would be best. But that broken mounting point will not help the sensor locate properly or stay in place with engine vibration. Needs a new one. I feel this is your problem. ECU can't figure out where the engine is so it's sparking at random times.
Im sure hoping so really really fed up with this whole project, I'll order a new one today and get back to you
 

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Im sure hoping so really really fed up with this whole project, I'll order a new one today and get back to you
Hope so too. Things like this can get you really down. These sensors are very sensitive to the distance they are away from the trigger wheel. If it's not right, it won't work well.
 

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How do you know it is running rich ? what it your fuel pump ? put new spark plugs , start the engine let it run for 15 min pull the plugs and post a pic to check if the problem is from one of the cylinders or all of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
How do you know it is running rich ? what it your fuel pump ? put new spark plugs , start the engine let it run for 15 min pull the plugs and post a pic to check if the problem is from one of the cylinders or all of them.
Hope so too. Things like this can get you really down. These sensors are very sensitive to the distance they are away from the trigger wheel. If it's not right, it won't work well.
Got the new crank sensor, same thing. All of the spark plugs are black
While under the engine I noticed drips of oil coming off of the bottom intake manifold bolts. I find that very strange, I'm pretty lost here and just debating if I should just buy a whole new engine. Im going to re check the head bolt torque before I do anything though. What do you guys think? Could i just have gotten a bad engine? Cracked block? Etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Might want to check your oil if you are getting that much fuel up top. It could be diluting it.

Do you have any videos of it running?
I will check tomorrow and get a video, if I have too much or too little oil how would that be mixing with the gas besides blow by? A little confused about that. And could too much oil cause it to somehow get into the combustion chamber?
 

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Sorry, what I meant was, if you have so much fuel in the engine that it's coming out of the intake manifold at the head, it's probably going past the piston rings into the oil and watering it down. Making the oil less lubricating.

But, if fuel is coming out of the intake manifold, that means there is a gap at the head to manifold flange and you have a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks after the throttle body on these MAP engines will make the ECU confused to how much air is coming in vs fuel. But that would mean lean running, not rich. O2 sensor compensating? Dumping in more fuel. I'm not sure.
 
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