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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed my gear stick is moving about 10mm backwards and forwards with acceleration which it never did before. I also have really bad vibration coming through the cabin and gear stick at high rpms (my entire car is dynomatted). I have just put my engine back in so it is possible I forgot to do something. Engine mounts are new. Top picture is my totally destroyed front one which is replaced.

What should I check? I could put the old front one back in with the kirkosaurus insert. Otherwise could the strut rod over the transmission mount cause this?

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New OEM rear one with kirkasaurus insert.

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76686



Toyota don't make front ones anymore so I got this brand new aftermarket one.

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I also got the Racer X poly bushes for the strut rod on the side.

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The oem rubber engine mount bushings soak up the vibrations much better than the urethane bushings. When I installed engine mount urethane bushings the car starting buzzing with all the vibrations being transferred into the cabin. I could not stand it as a daily driver and went back to oem. Remove the shifter boot and the plastic plate surrounding the shifter. Drive the car so you can see what is going on. I found loose fasters in the past.
 

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You should get less movement of engine & trans with the poly mounts. Some complain of excessive vibration but I found it was limited as long as bushes were well lubricated. I’d look at the cable bushes and use spherical bearings over solid brass type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I will get under the car tomorrow and see if I can see anything. I only put the poly insert on the rear mount. I hoped it would make less difference on the rear. Maybe I will swap out the new front mount and replace it with the old one with the insert. Maybe it sat around for years and the rubber is hard.
 

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The front bush on the 3SGE is a 2 part. Has the rubber bush as part of the gearbox mount and the steel ring bolted to the chassis. They aren't meant to be molded together like the rear one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The front bush on the 3SGE is a 2 part. Has the rubber bush as part of the gearbox mount and the steel ring bolted to the chassis. They aren't meant to be molded together like the rear one.
So the rubber "star shaped" thing in the middle isn't actually bonded to the steel ring normally? As in my mount in the picture isn't actually destroyed?
 

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So the rubber "star shaped" thing in the middle isn't actually bonded to the steel ring normally? As in my mount in the picture isn't actually destroyed?
Yes that would be correct. If you note the design of the red insert you'll see there is barely any connection for the black rubber to contact the steel ring. Turbo engines use a similar design to the rear mount.
 

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The front mount is the most important in controlling trans/engine movements. Like suggested I'd install the Kirks poly mounts in that location and it should solve your excessive movement. Make sure you use plenty of the grease supplied with bush's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I decided to clean up the old mount, treat some surface rust and make it black again. I thought I would try with the inserts first. I can remove them later if need be. The inserts fit very tightly around the rubber star shaped part of the mount in the middle but there is still 3mm or so of movement within the outer ring. Hopefully that means less vibration transfer. Fortunately I am an essential worker in the lockdown but I don't work until Thursday so will try it out then.

Also was a good opportunity for my 300-400km post rebuild engine oil change and I am very happy to see there is no fluids leaking anywhere... yay.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still get gear stick movement even with new rear mount + poly inserts (both front and rear) so it must be something else. I get less vibration with the front mount + insert vs a new aftermarket mount.

I have spherical bushings, new cube thing, new nylon bushes in the shifter assembly, aluminium shifter base mounts, even a new spring for the shifter side to side movement, new OEM 93+ shift lever too.
 

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Unlikely, but could be side engine/trans mounts especially if they are loose or in really bad shape. Front & rear mounts seem to take most of the load and generally need replacement first. Maybe your the exception to the rule.

jim
 

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Honestly I think the Kirk bushings are intended to work with the Turbo mount where the inner bushing is bonded to the outer ring but with the NA mount they do nothing - you might as well tie down your engine with bungee cords. My car is a NA - I bought a Turbo front mount for it, it is a direct fit. I have since upgraded to poly mounts, because 2GR torque and the stock replacement mounts fail. There is a way to eliminate vibration from the poly mounts, I show it in this video. I have used this mod on multiple cars, it works.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Very odd this. Side mounts take the majority of the weight while front and rear take the torque load.

Can you replicate the movement by rocking the engiine?
No, engine is rock stable when I try to push or pull it from behind. No dicernable movement at all.
Honestly I think the Kirk bushings are intended to work with the Turbo mount where the inner bushing is bonded to the outer ring but with the NA mount they do nothing - you might as well tie down your engine with bungee cords. My car is a NA - I bought a Turbo front mount for it, it is a direct fit. I have since upgraded to poly mounts, because 2GR torque and the stock replacement mounts fail. There is a way to eliminate vibration from the poly mounts, I show it in this video. I have used this mod on multiple cars, it works.

Nice idea on reducing the NVH, this was the reason I ruled out getting these. I might consider it in the future. It is a pity they don't just adjust their rubber moulding so they don't need to be modified.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so the NVH was HORRENDOUS, it was shaking right through the passenger compartment. You could feel it clearly in your back just at idle. High rpm's of course much worse.

I removed the front insert from the stock mount and it is 90% better. There is still some (probably) extra NVH from the rear mount but it is definitely 100% liveable now. So both a new aftermarket front mount and a stock genuine mount with poly insert create a huge amount of vibration.

If you guys say the 3sgte and 3sge/5sfe front engine mounts are interchangeable? I might buy a 3sgte OEM toyota one since they are still available and swap it in when I add the turbo and see how that compares.
 

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Ok so the NVH was HORRENDOUS, it was shaking right through the passenger compartment. You could feel it clearly in your back just at idle. High rpm's of course much worse.

I removed the front insert from the stock mount and it is 90% better. There is still some (probably) extra NVH from the rear mount but it is definitely 100% liveable now. So both a new aftermarket front mount and a stock genuine mount with poly insert create a huge amount of vibration.

If you guys say the 3sgte and 3sge/5sfe front engine mounts are interchangeable? I might buy a 3sgte OEM toyota one since they are still available and swap it in when I add the turbo and see how that compares.
Interesting observation. I do experience vibration at idle but it's bearable. As soon as the RPM lifts from idle it's fine. Although I am running turbo mounts all round on the 3SGE but am running Kirk inserts with grease.
You only need to buy the chassis mounted part as the front gearbox part is the same where it matters.

Did this help with the gear lever movement?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did this help with the gear lever movement?
Not really but it isn't an issue other than it wasn't like that before the engine rebuild and I was a bit concerned something wasn't right. I will just ignore it. 1100 rpm idle has no vibration at all but it eventually settles lower. When I get a link ECU I will try and keep the idle up a bit.

This car is definitely an interesting experience getting things how I want them. One day I will buy a newish car and just leave it alone!
 

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Not really but it isn't an issue other than it wasn't like that before the engine rebuild and I was a bit concerned something wasn't right. I will just ignore it. 1100 rpm idle has no vibration at all but it eventually settles lower. When I get a link ECU I will try and keep the idle up a bit.

This car is definitely an interesting experience getting things how I want them. One day I will buy a newish car and just leave it alone!
There shouldn't really be much play in the gear lever but it's interesting this topic. Now that I have just got my car on the road yesterday I'll see if mine does the same.
I'd personally leave the idle at 800rpm even with the LINK but that's just me. You shouldn't be idling in the race car anyway!! :ROFLMAO:
Isn't the E55 lux enough for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Now that I have just got my car on the road yesterday I'll see if mine does the same.

Isn't the E55 lux enough for you?
Did you get the gen 4 swap done?

E55 isn't bad or at least it wasn't until I got long tube headers. One of the aftermarket cats is just touching a heat shield which sends vibration through the floor. I seem to be cursed with NVH issues. The fabricator has already adjusted it but I think that section needs cutting and re-welding. In comparison that car has oil filled engine mounts- definitely the way to go (until they eventually burst anyway).
 
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