MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I bought this Turbo from a dealer in San Jose in 1995, with 11k on it. I've kept it in Santa Cruz and Silicon Valley ever since. Four years ago I had the engine completely rebuilt, with a rebuilt turbo, reground camshafts, and replacement of the piston rings, bearings, timing belt, water pump, clutch, and of course, the dreaded HFH and HFHOE. I have recently had an ignition tune-up done, with new plugs, distributor cap/rotor, and coil; and replaced the battery. Also, I got a boost leak fixed.

The car is up for auction at no reserve on BringATrailer: No Reserve: 26-Years-Owned 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo 5-Speed

Wheels are Fittipaldi Interlagos, 16x7 front and 17x8.5 rear, currently wearing Yokohama S.drive, 205/45-16 and 235/40-17. The stereo includes DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.2 drivers, a 656 watt Infiinity amp in the frunk, a JL Audio subwoofer behind the passenger seat, and a Blaupunkt head unit with auto-equalization and other DSP features. The CD player is broken, but who uses those anymore? I just plug the aux cable into my phone.

A few minor problems. The power antenna mechanism is broken. The trunk lid support spring is broken (so the trunk opening lever next to the driver's seat doesn't work). The driver's side power door lock motor sometimes doesn't work (manual operation is unaffected).

But the pop-up headlights work, the A/C has been retrofitted to R134a and works, the speedo and tach and other dash gauges and lights all work (with one exception I'll get to in a moment), and the engine is running well. I've never modded the engine — not even a manual boost controller. The Koni shocks still work great as far as I can tell from the driver's seat, though they're pretty old by now.

Cosmetically, the paint is in pretty good shape — you can see for yourself in the photos — though some fading is visible on the plastic bumper covers, and of course there are some rock chips (I have used touch-up paint on them now and then over the years). No rust, though. The interior is pretty good except for ordinary wear, especially on the steering wheel, and a bubble that formed one hot day on the center console. The glass is all original except for the windshield, which I had replaced by Safelite after a tree branch fell on it in a parking lot.

That exception I mentioned: after the rebuild, the oil pressure light started coming on occasionally, for no obvious reason. My mechanic replaced the sensor, but the problem didn't go away. Eventually I asked about it on this forum, and someone suggested an aftermarket gauge, so I installed Prosport oil pressure and temperature gauges; that proved that oil pressure wasn't actually low when the light came on. Evidently the replacement sensor was bad out of the box. I've replaced it again, and fully expect that to be the end of the problem, but I've left the gauges installed just in case I'm wrong. (There's an outside chance there's an electrical problem with the light, though I think that's unlikely given the observed behavior.) Here's the discussion: Strange loss of oil pressure after rebuild

But enough verbiage — you want pictures! Here are a few; lots more, along with a brief starting and driving video, on the auction page.

Ext-Beauty-Near-Small.jpg Ext-Beauty-Near-2-Small.jpg Int-Dr-Dash-Small.jpg Engine-Small.jpg Ext-Pa-FQ-Small.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One of the commenters on BaT suggested that I had been confusing the oil level light (the yellow one to the lower right of the speedo) with the oil pressure light (a red one in a group on the left side, under the water temperature gauge). He was correct: it's the level light that's been coming on all this time. Aargh! A lot of time and some money wasted trying to track down the wrong problem. I feel really stupid. Fortunately, the car will be easier to fix than my ego :)
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top