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Fs: 1988 mk1.5

742 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Wushu

After 20 years of driving MK1’s, and 10 years of driving this one, the time has finally come for me to move on to something that has 4 seats in it. So as much as I will miss it, I have to let this one go and pass it on to someone else, hopefully who has the same passion for MR2’s and can enjoy this one as much as I have.

1988 MK1.5 for sale
Location: Parsipanny area New Jersey (north central NJ)
Contact: califcarm at
Pics in next post
Price $5500

Here are the major specs:

88 NA hardtop chassis (CA car until 6 years ago, NJ for the last 6)
Gray/silver two-tone paint scheme.
All original VIN stickers
Battery relocated to front (15lb Odyssey PC680 dry cell)
Custom engine lid 800cfm fan and reverse scoop

Inspection, Certification:
NJ registration and clean title
NJ inspection just done (good for 2 years)
BAR Certified (CA smog LEGAL). It was originally swapped and passed in California through the referee a as a smog legal swap and has the BAR sticker still in place.
Even though it is in NJ now it is still completely CA legal as it sits (It requires only a secondary cat which is currently installed, and has allowable IC and water injection).

JDM Gen2 engine from clip
- head drilled for EGR
- USDM intake manifold w/ EGR boss
- USDM EGR fitted
- USDM ECU w/ necessary wiring changes
- Alternator relocated to Celica position up top (easy maintenance!)
- ARP head studs
- CT27 turbo (with “helper spring” to raise wastegate boost to 14psi)
- KO 2.5" DP
- 6” cone cotton (K&N style) air filter in stock truck location
- 2.5" exhaust w/ single 7" Magnaflow muffler
- Supra fuel pump
- ATS bored fuel rail
- Custom A2W IC system: Frozen Boost core 11X9X3.5”, Ford Cobra front mount HE, Jabsco centri-puppy pump (recently new pump).
- ST205 ABV (modified to be free floating, currently blocked for engine to run as “BOV-less”)
- Greddy Profec-B Boost controller
- Apexi S-AFCII (dual tune: wastegate 14psi pump gas, 20+ psi pump+ 1500cc/min alcohol injection)
- Custom designed alcohol injection system: Newest Devils own 300psi pump, dual nozzle (1000cc/min + 500cc/min) with SS braided pressure lines and AN fittings, 2 gallon reservoir, in-cabin on-off switch and indicator lamp.

- Stock just resurfaced flywheel
- Just installed Southbend stage 2 endurance clutch
- 93+ LSD tranny (installed brandnew from Toyota 50K miles ago)
- MK2 turbo rear hubs & axles
- Reinforced front chassis mount area (these can and will tear out on a high power MKI unless reinforced)
- Kirkosaurus motor mount inserts
- SS braided clutch line
- Clutch pedal start manual disable toggle switch
- Custom short shifter with ‘93 MKII turbo shift knob

BRAKES and Steering:
- 93T rear rotors & calipers
- ST185 front caliper and rotors (10.9" - same dia. as 93T)
- 95T master cylinder
- Porterfield pads F&R
- SS braided brake lines
- Momo Race steering wheel
- Urethane steering rack bushings

GC weld on coil over kit F&R
200lb/in F, 325lb/in rear springs
Koni yellows front
Koni yellows rear
Hight and Tight front sway bar end links
T3 adjustable rear camber upper mounts
Crash bolts F/R
17.5mm SW20 rear bar
Addco 19mm front bar
16x8 FD RX-7 rims rear (14.5 lbs)
15x6 Miata rims front (12.5 lbs)
225/45-16 R (Near wear bars, need replacing soon)
205/50-15 F (about 50% remaining)

The good:
325whp - 23psi, pump+1500cc/min alcohol (estimated)
308whp - 18.5psi, pump+1000cc/min alcohol (dynojet verified)
273whp - 17psi, pump gas (dynojet verified)
257whp - 15pis, pump gas (dynojet verified)

Another MK1.5 setup just like this one weighed in at 2550 lbs. So power to weight is outstanding.

0-60mph - under 4 seconds (data logged and verified). That’s on street tires with me driving on the 308whp tune.

Engine (with exception what is listed in “bad”) is strong, no leaks, no burning of oil. Can go 5K miles between oil changes without needing any oil added.
SACFII and boost control currently setup for “dual” mode. Boost control and injection turned off - 250whp 14psi wastegate tune. Boost controller and injection turned on - 325whp 23psi tune. Just two button presses from the cabin to switch between them (can be done on the fly).
J&S Knock protection and monitor is the best thing ever for these engines. Really provides incredible protection from blowing a motor due to knock. It has a custom steering column mounted LED monitor so you can easily see if it ever starts to intervene. I would personally never have a 3sgte without one after seeing what this thing can do.
Suspension is good without rattles or clunks. Handles very well with recent alignment in the last 12 months (“aggressive” street camber).
Transmission (93+) with LSD was purchased brand new from Toyota about 50K miles ago.
Just had “engine out” service done at Prime Performance (great shop btw!). Included new South Bend clutch, TOB bearing, resurfaced stock flywheel, timing belt, time belt tensioner, OEM Aisin Water pump and housing, clutch slave and master cylinder, thermostat and gasket, change trans oil, flush/fill coolant Toyota RED.

Interior is in decent shape overall. No dash cracks, no seat or door panel tears or cracks. Overall in pretty good shape for an MKI.

Comes with 2nd set of alloy wheels with winter tires (no cheap steel wheels here, need to look good in the winter also!). 205/55/15 rear (brand new), 195/55/15 front (50% remaining). Also two more extra wheels only (MkII turbo factory 15”). Handles very well in the winter if you are inclined like I was and want to drive it year round.

Comes with “test pipe” to replace cat for highest boost mode (but will run 20psi through cat if you want to). Extra USDM throttle body, AFM. Other bits and pcs like window gear, interior gauge bezel, etc…. Also including a blown CT20B turbo which is confirmed to be good for a core if you want to use it for the new billet “black jack 21” upgrade (was my plan for the next step for the engine).

JimKing was the original builder and did an excellent job in every way. 10 years of daily driving it is a testimony to how well the swap was done. Still have the original build receipts from him with his notes. I have a good amount documentation stored in emails about all aspects of the car I ever dealt with (alternator part number, which brake or suspension components were used, etc…). And there is a long history on these forums where I have detailed many different aspects of the car and its history. So the car is pretty well documented. It has even been to Prime Performance a few times when I did not have time to work on it myself, so they could comment on the car if you wanted an independent third party who has seen it before. Including the BGB (factory manual) for the ‘88 car, and ‘93 drivetrain.

Also including a box of MKII turbo ABS parts. Jim had planned (and myself as well) to put the ABS on it, which requires only a single custom adapter for the front and the rest will bolt right up).

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The bad:
The head gasket is tired. It is the original composite factory gasket. Two years ago it started pressurizing the coolant system under high boost (18 psi or more, but was fine at 15 and under). I caught it right away and I added ARP head studs. Problem went away for about a year and then showed a few signs of returning. So I retorqued the head studs again, and problem went away again. Another year goes by: it is not currently pressurizing the system but did development an external water leak under boost between the head and block. Not much, but would wet the block some, which got a little worse over a few month period. I wanted to add something to seal it up and wanted it to be as benign as possible (something that would not harm any part of the coolant system). These tablets are used by GM at the service centers (and other OEM’s) just for maintenance and to prevent any minor leaks:
So I put these in and the leak has stopped when out of boost or just using light boost occasionally. But under high boost it will still wet the block a little (not enough to drip to the ground though). DISCLAIMER: it could always be a cracked block, but my opinion given the head gasket history is that it is just the gasket giving way after so many years of high boost and age.
There is no AC compressor on the car (but have it separately). Front condenser gone (don’t have it) to make way for the front mount HE for the IC system. AC Lines are still in place.
Body had a few small ding areas (larger than door dings). See pics for them.
Paint is tired and clear coat on top/engine lid is going.
I have kept up with repairing anything that is needed for reliable daily driving, but small things I let go and have not done. Like HVAC dash light is out. Passenger window gear clicks as it goes up (but still does work up/down fully, and I have the new spare gear to include). Aftermarket coolant gauge is not reading ATM (it is just a bad wire in the pigtail on the sensor, not the gauge itself, but the stock coolant gauge works fine). The exhaust has a cracked section that has muffler tape on it, but could use welding to repair it fully.
Speedometer is not working. It is the key/keyway for the gear that mounts in the trans (fixed it once and it broke again a few months later). I have put a GPS mounted in front of the speedometer which works nicely though, which is included with the car.

No radio (but it does save weight! LOL). Ebrake cables are frozen.

Body rust has been kep to a minimum as I was diligent every year to get under the car and go after anything that was starting and also spray it down with Rustoleum. So despite a little light surface rust spots on the undercarriage and touch up paint here and there, the body is solid above and below.

The car is very fast for go, stop, and turn. It keeps up with or just plain outruns some seriously expensive cars out there. From my experience it would not have a hard time running a high 11 second ¼ mile at near 120mph trap. But then again it was built for much more than just going straight.

Would make a great car for a weekend track toy (what Jim built it for), or could easily be a daily driver again. With some body TLC it could be nicely restored also to be pristine again.

Pictures are detailed below.

Car Exterior:


Frunk/Trunk/Alochol injection:



Snow tires - winter wheels:

Dyno’s (done in 3rd gear):

Reinforced front Chassis mount:

Repair Manuals:
Oh man, SO pissed I missed this! It's even the same color as my 88 NA!
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