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rnoll98 said:
Alignment
Front:
Camber: Max negative (-2.5 to -3.0 degrees) using crash bolts
Caster: Max positive (5.0 degrees), only adjustable on 91/92 cars
Toe: 0 to 1/8" total toe OUT, provides crisper response and turn-in

Rear:
Camber: Max negative (-1.5 or so) crash bolts NOT LEGAL
Toe (91/92): 0 to 1/8" total toe IN is a good place to start
Toe (93+): 0" is a good place to start.
Are you sure your toe settings are not reversed. I thought toe in resulted in quicker steering response and toe out helped keep the rear end planted.

I'm still learning here, so please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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You're wrong. Think about it this way-if you want the rear end of your car to rotate, having the outside wheel toed out will only "encourage" the car to rotate. That being said, lots of people run with some toe out on their cars just for that reason.

I toed out my horribly understeering Elise trying to get the car to rotate (turned out it had a ride heighth/rake issue). Once I got the ride heighth fixed, the car was absolutely undrivable, an exercise in how to spin a car.
 

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will you get protested locally? only if you run with dicks
 

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kbrew8991 said:
will you get protested locally? only if you run with dicks
For this particular situation, I would never protest. But running non-stock wheel sizes in a stock class is asking for trouble. I would not do it unless I talked to every single competitor in the class. Otherwise, you can be the dick who knew he was illegal and didn't care.
 

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rnoll98 said:
This is what I also ran. Though I had heard that some folks were running softer up front to compensate for the bigger bar. A wise autocrosser once told me shocks are tuned based on driver preference, not necessarily within a set window like other things. Which makes sense, shocks do just that, absorb shock. If you're super smooth, you can usually get away with stiffer shocks. If not, a softer setting will disrupt the tires less when unsmooth inputs are made.
I tend to feel faster running my Tokico's on '4' all the way around. It seemed if I would run '5' up front ant '4' in the rear i would spin the car out... same if I reversed the settings. I am running a decent autoX alignment, TRD front Bar and Toyo RA1's about 40psi in the rear and 42psi in the front.
 

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Okay, getting some lightweight wheels. I will have to re-tool the studs and lug nuts (conical), but a couple of questions come to mind:

-I read the max legal offset is 38.xxMM, yet it appears the stock wheels are +45MM and the 15X7 SSRs are +42MM. What am I missing? I picked up a pair of Wedsports that should do the trick in the back, but I'll need spacers to get to the max, I assume. Confused!

-I'm getting a pair of Millenias for the front. can anyone confirm the spacer size I'll need to get to the maximum? I'll need longer studs there, too.

-any source on spacers? Thanks all.
 

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Why yes, yes I do! But I also want another lightweight set of rims. I will run both this season, a lot. And I'm using a stock set for rains, and a stock set for some track tires. So my questions still stand. Any help?
 

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Surferjer said:
-I read the max legal offset is 38.xxMM, yet it appears the stock wheels are +45MM and the 15X7 SSRs are +42MM. What am I missing? I picked up a pair of Wedsports that should do the trick in the back, but I'll need spacers to get to the max, I assume. Confused!

-I'm getting a pair of Millenias for the front. can anyone confirm the spacer size I'll need to get to the maximum? I'll need longer studs there, too.

-any source on spacers? Thanks all.
stock rules say you need to be within +/-1/4 inch of the stock offset. stock is 45mm, so 1/4" is ~6.35mm, making max offset 38.65mm So if you already have 42mm offset, you can't even do a 5mm spacer or it will put you over.
The milenias have an offset of +50, so you can put a 10mm spacer and be down to within 1.35mm of legal.

I'm also looking to get spacers and studs. I was considering Ichiba 45mm thread extended studs for the front - it should still fit the stock lugs (would be nice if someone could confirm). For the rear I wanted a little more thread engagement, so was considering putting Ichiba 45mm back there too.

I haven't found any inexpensive 10mm spacers, the best I found is 5/16 which is 8mm.
 

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I bought the Ichiba 15mm kit with studs -> my stock wheels & lugs w/o the spacer installed fit just fine, it is close though

I do not know the stud length on those, but I would have to assume the 10mm kit would use the same or shorter..?
 

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rnoll98 said:
Everyone in SM is trying to get narrower, why does ES always try and get wider? :)
Beacuse they need to compensate for the lack of forced induction and HP. :p
For every 1/4 in. the tires stick out, it adds 10hp.
I also think that they may be influenced by some hispanic styling, and probably find themselves looking at hydraulics for thier two without even realizing it....and, as Randy mentioned, it helps punting those pesky cones out of they way.
 
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