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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So are you fed up flickin? your headlight switch on & off?slappin? your dashpod...done lookin at fuses?then you search the board, with no real comprehensive answer to your headlight switch dilemma.

http://store03.prostores.com/mmccul3797/media/05/a20792a1297c1cdf4a6404_m.JPG


Symptoms (can be ?and? ?or??or ?all of the above?):
- Headlights flicker or don't turn on at all (but do flip up)
- Parking signals don?t turn on (but hazard lights work)
- Intermittent Dash lights flicker or they just don't turn on
- Interior Dimmer Jig Wheel non-functional
- Everything turns off spontaneously
- Cop pull you over to tell you that your light aren't on (true story, real talk)

I've recently taken few of these apart...all with the same problems.

The Cause (in most cases):
1 ? A broken solder on the internal (2nd) printed circuit board of the switch...hidden ba$tard


2 ? A cracked Dimmer Jig Wheel (it won?t bite/grab well)


Some people might find worn and dirty contact plates or a poor connection on the switch harness, but in general these aren't the culperts.


The Solutions:
1 ? Simple...pop out the outer PCB and resolder bad/broken connection on the PCB. Probably best to resolder all the connection to be safe.
2 ? Krazy Glue Dimmer Jig Wheel and make sure its pressed firmly together until it dries to ensure a snug fit.

This is a very simple and easy repair. I hope these visual aids help out...and you'll can save a few bucks. :thumbup
 

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Good pics, mine had at least one cracked solder joint. My one word of warning is that cracked solder joints rarely look that obvious. Its very easy to miss it, so I suggest reflowing all the joints if you suspect there is a failure.
 

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My front parking and side maker lights haven't worked for years. The turn signals and hazards work. A few years ago they worked for a few months and quit. I've checked the bulbs, connections and grounds and never found the problem. Maybe this is it! I replaced the headlight switch when I got the car 16 years ago. A new one is over $100 at RockAuto.
 

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i am having these similar problems....please see my thread for the indiglo gauges not working, any help is greatly appreciated. It seems to be getting a good ground on my indiglo's but i think my hot is tied into a bad place. thanks!
 

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I openned up my switch and found this solder to have a hairline crack in it that was causing the lights to blink off and on.
Super easy fix, just heat up a soldering iron and zap the existing solder. good as new.


For good measure, I redid all the connections.

EDIT: ALSO buy a can of Contact Cleaner. It can be found at local electronics stores. Spray it on all contact surfaces before reassembly. It will evaporate with no residue.
This product also has a double purpose. You can use it to clean your Mass Air Flow Meter (AFM). Just spray the entirety of the can through the AFM (while its disconnected and outside of car, of course) and reinstall. DO NOT touch or wipe the inside of the AFM with anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
basist_4 said:
+1 for sticky...

only thing this is missing is how to remove the switch from the dash to start with...
It's pretty straight forward...begin with pulling off the wiper & head switch knobs...


Then you'll need to loosen the 17mm nut (I forgot the actual size) holding the switch in...(note you may need a deep socket to get off):


Then unscrewing the dash pod covers:


Then unplug the dash pod switches (headlight switch, wiper switch, open switch light, rear defroster switch...& ECT switch for auto folks). Pull out the inner dash pod out.
 

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Excellent DIY - For those of us with "aging" eyes, many thanks for highlighting the culprit. That hairline crack isn't even a hairline - it's teeny,tiny and even with my "reading glasses", it was virtually impossible to see.

Had to epoxy the silly rheostat wheel and the instrument cluster surround back together so no testing of my soldering skills until tomorrow...at least I haven't let out any of the precious electrical smoke (yet).
 

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mgyip said:
Excellent DIY - For those of us with "aging" eyes, many thanks for highlighting the culprit. That hairline crack isn't even a hairline - it's teeny,tiny and even with my "reading glasses", it was virtually impossible to see. Had to epoxy the silly rheostat wheel and the instrument cluster surround back together so no testing of my soldering skills until tomorrow...at least I haven't let out any of the precious electrical smoke (yet).
Indeed they are tiny. This is why I figured it is a good idea to just re-solder all the connections and be done with it.
 

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+1 Sticky.

Is there any difference between the 86- and 87+ switches besides the lever?

Mine is blowing the tail circuit fuse when I adjust the dimmer. Not sure if it's related to the stereo exchange I've been working on because I hadn't touched the dimmer until I tested it with the stereo. It blows with the stereo unplugged when I turn the dimmer dial.
 
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